Pin Hole In Primer

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You can defiantly see the pits from the blown primers today. I just want to figure out the root cause to correct the problem so I don't trash another bolt.
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The Hornady brass photo shows a primer seated crooked with excessive force. Seat the primer, then turn case 180 degrees and finish seating. Watch how the punch moves the case on seating. Is the large punch installed? That is an extra nasty looking bolt face on your 7 mag. On left is 243 win bolt from a Rem 600 using defective Rem 9 1/2 primers.
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Wow. Well, that explains it, you've got a primer mold now :eek::cuss::(

Well, I'm gonna go with 243's recommendation on the even seating- on this crappy screen I can't see a crimp on the primer- but I'll take his word for it.

I don't know how much the bolt is going to be to replace, but if its not too deep ( cant tell from pics ) a smith might be able to reface it, although you'll have a little more case stretch from that point forward.


They might *might* even be able to spot a drop of tig on each point, and resurface it- but thats a smith thing for sure- outta my league if it'd take that kinda pressure going forward.
 
I went through this with a bad lot of winchester LP primers. I only had 4 pock marks on my revolver before I noticed. The solution was junking the entire lot of primers. The cracked primers typically happened in RP brass which has less support around the primer shoulder. Hard brass plus stretching at the shoulder means pinhole cracks and plasma cut pits in your bolt face. Or in my case a recoil plate which cannot be replaced.

I'd stop using those primers immediately.


edfardos
 
Those pits are deep enough to ruin the headspace if the bolt face is turned enough to clean it. The difference in go and no-go on a belted magnum is .004". I would bet the pits are that deep. Either spring for a new bolt (good luck on that) or have your smith clean the face and set the bbl back one thread and rechamber. No use taking a chance on excess headspace on a nearly new rifle.
 
Federal Mag large Rifle Primers

I would keep shooting the 7 mm Rem mag, but reduce the powder charge. See if you still blow primers. Like i said before, a gas leak & defective primer look about the same. A gas leak may do some damage lower on the primer cup, closer to the bottom of the pocket, running up to the hole.This photo of your brass fired after the primer rupture doesnt look deep enougt to cause a problem. IMO. B18A9CD6-AA06-45EF-8199-E98F1E0042D3.jpg
 
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Those pits are deep enough to ruin the headspace if the bolt face is turned enough to clean it. The difference in go and no-go on a belted magnum is .004". I would bet the pits are that deep. Either spring for a new bolt (good luck on that) or have your smith clean the face and set the bbl back one thread and rechamber. No use taking a chance on excess headspace on a nearly new rifle.

Yea I'm call the factory in the morning. Numrich Gun Parts has a Bolt Assembly for $165, but they are out of stock. I will check with the factory first.

I think I'm going to trash that box of primers, and go back with CCI's.
 
No help on loading the 7mm Rem Mag from me, but those sure look like pierced primers to me, the ones that didn't blow at your 70 grain load. The firing pin strikes are burnt through. I recognize it from what my .223s used to do when tossing 69gr Sierras with 748 powder on a July day. (Fun times! :D )

All of those signs are telling me to back off the load a grain or two and see if the piercing stops. Though once you've burned a few primers, you etch the firing pin tip and it acts as a punch, giving you smoked primers even on safe loads. I've never changed a striker assembly on a bolt gun, but I'd definitely back off the load and get a new firing pin.
 
No help on loading the 7mm Rem Mag from me, but those sure look like pierced primers to me, the ones that didn't blow at your 70 grain load. The firing pin strikes are burnt through. I recognize it from what my .223s used to do when tossing 69gr Sierras with 748 powder on a July day. (Fun times! )

Actually that's Blue Sharpie. I marked each charge weight group with a number on the primer, and charge weight on the side of the case. I cleaned the sharpie off before posting pics so you could see the primer well.
 
Just because this load was great in rifle #1 does not mean it's great or safe in rifle #2. The pressure is too much for these primers to stand, either because it's beyond their design or because they are not up to par. Either way, you've got to change something.

If you want to use these primers for this rifle, back it off a couple grains and re-work the load.

If you want to switch to a harder primer, get some CCI's and re-work the load.

I had a problem with WLRP's a year or so ago and switched to CCI's. I use the old Win primers for low pressure Swede loads and they are fine for that.

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I agree, and understand that a load can be fine in one rifle, but not in another. It just threw me for a loop when the primer blew because I had no other signs of pressure, and my velocities were on par with my load data/results in my notes. I did have one load during the work up that showed real promising across the Chrono with a ES=12, and a SD=7 @2880fps. The groups were not there at 1.1" @ 100yrds, but I make revisit this and play with OAL a little. I am going to also try some CCI's and IMR4831 also. I have a pretty good recipe with this combo that's under max and shoots well. Thanks for all the help gents!
 
Quality control problems with WLR primers? I have had three primers develop the pin-hole leak at the edge with medium pressure loads. One .30-30, one 6.5X55, and one .260 Rem. Some of the .308/7.62 guys at my gun club have had the same problem. The common factor: recently purchased Winchester Large Rifle primers. Luckily, I didn't get any bolt face damage at the lower pressure, but smoke coming from the action when fired provided notice of something gone wrong.
 
Holy cow, that bolt face looks awful! If it were me, I would not shoot max loads with that bolt any more. I would think that, due to the apparent depth of the pits it now has, this would likely amplify any current situation you are having with primers blowing.

As for having the bolt face turned down some, head space would likely become an issue, as would the life span of your brass.

Also, after seeing that you are using different head stamps, with the same load, I would think that could be a contributing factor. It's difficult to say, but different brass can often produce varied pressure results? you can get away with it when loading for handgun, but not so much with high pressure bottle neck cartridges.

GS
 
As for having the bolt face turned down some, head space would likely become an issue, as would the life span of your brass.

Also, after seeing that you are using different head stamps, with the same load, I would think that could be a contributing factor. It's difficult to say, but different brass can often produce varied pressure results? you can get away with it when loading for handgun, but not so much with high pressure bottle neck cartridges.

Gamestalker I wouldn't even consider refacing the bolt. It will be a NEW bolt or nothing, period! As for the different headstamps... I guess it was a stupid move taking a sample pick of a Hornady primed case for reference since I ONLY have maybe 5 Hornady cases, and 250 or more FC cases. I ONLY use my 7mm FC cases to load. I'm not the smartest in the world, but I know better than loading different head stamps without working up a new load.

I will be calling Ruger about a new bolt. I carried my bolt to a reputable bench rifle gunsmith today. He looked it over, and told me he wouldn't really worry about it after showing me his 1000yrd bench gun bolt. It looked like the moon from using Federal 215's also. He also refused to reface it since that would affect head spacing, and advised me to replace it or shoot it.

Sorry for the comfusion with the Hornady case pic.
 
I've been working up a load for my new glock Model 42. I've been using 95gr MG W/WSP. New WIN. brass. Found a sweet spot and thought I could up the grains and do better at 3.2 w/231. I'am somewhat newer then you fella's but now I have to start looking at and pulling apart! As my load produced the same results! Very pronounced to! The pin hole.
 
I can practically guarantee that Ruger will want the rifle back to an authorized depot (or their facility) if they are asked to replace the bolt. They'll likely want to re-proof the reworked rifle with replacement bolt.
 
I'm guessing a burr on the bolt face is the problem... even a very minor imperfection would cause this type of blowout. Back to the factory and let them have a look see, maybe a new bolt from them would cure this hiccup... they don't like bad press! Just sayin'.
 
I can practically guarantee that Ruger will want the rifle back to an authorized depot (or their facility) if they are asked to replace the bolt. They'll likely want to re-proof the reworked rifle with replacement bolt.
That's what it sounds like. I talked with a local Ruger gunsmith yesterday, and he said that Ruger wouldn't send him a bolt. They want the gun back to properly fit the bolt. I'm looking at big money to do that. Now I have to decide if I want to spend the money, or just shoot it as is. The pics of the bolt make it look worse than it really is. I didn't have any more after that second one all the way to 71.5gr. Seems like 71.5gr is max load with no room to play in 7mm using Retumbo in that gun. Like my other 7mm, 71gr produced a .57" group @ 100yrds, and velocities of 3020fps. At 71.5gr I started noticing primer flow.

I also don't know if I will continue to use Federal primers. May just stick with CCI for a while.
 
You are looking at some defective primers. I had some winchesters last year that did that. Winchester sent a shipper to pick them up and gave me a case to replace them. I posted the photos here somewhere.

DO NOT shoot any more with that lot of primers. Beside the risk of gas in the face it will screw up your extractor and firing pin. Call Federal about it.
 
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