please help diagnose this problem

[lamazza]

I simply cannot make an effective .223 cartridge.
The background.
Bought a Lee progressive 1000 and some cheap 66? grain bullets from Wideners. The shells will fire fine but my AR15 will not eject the casings.
I have tried H335, H322, Accurate 2015 with (bought a scale)powder loads ranging from 23gr to 25gr at .2 intervals using all the different powders.
I figured maybe the bullets were the problem so I bought some Hornaday 55gr and tried the same graduated loads. Same results. What am I doing wrong?!
My AR has NO problems cycling with any of the factory ammo I have tried including cheap Wolf.
Any advise appreciated.

 

[mc223]

The powders you listed are all capable of good results. I think I would take a good look at your scale to verify that you are getting what you think. Also a look at the powder measure to verify that it is dropping a correct weight charge. Weigh some of your bullets to check the scale. This method is not perfect but will let you know if the scale is an issue.

 

[dmftoy1]

I'm sure this is probably a really stupid question, but are you full length resizing and trimming before you reload them?

I've had really good luck with the H335 . ..I was using the cheapest 55FMJ bullets from Winchester and they grouped "ok", but when I switched to the 69 grain Sierra matchkings I felt like I was a reloading god . ..and I KNOW I'm not that good.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[Travis Two]

Chances are that you are not getting the cases full length resized on the lee1000. this could be due to two things . First the press is not securly mounted and braced to effectivly resize a rifle case. secondly the progressive press may have too much "play" in the press to get a full length resize even if it looks like it full length resizing. redo those cases on a good single stage and check the trim length and I'll bet those cases will work just fine.

 

[lamazza]

thank you all-I will look into a single stage and start over.

 

[BSlacker]

Although full length resizing is needed for most brass that has been previously fired in a semi auto or full auto rifle yours seems to be feeding fine going in the chamber and that is where full length sizing is most important.
I suspect case length is the problem. Do this test in a safe manner, finger off the trigger, safety on and pointed in a safe direction kind of stuff. Chamber a factory round and then manually eject it then chamber one of your reloads and see if the force to manual eject is about the same. My guess is that your loads are sticking in the chamber some way or the other after firing. If the case length is to long the case will stick in the leade area after firing and won't eject easily before firing you may notice a slight sticking difference from factory. Inspect the mouth area of brass that has been fired in your rifle. Is it clean and unmarked does it look like factory case mouth after firing? Just a thought.

 

[lamazza]

BSlacker-

right on! Those are the symptoms.

 

[BSlacker]

I find it useful to inspect fired brass from my AR15s with a magnifing glass. You will find all sorts of funny stuff. If you saved the brass look at the case mouths closely. Measure the case length between fired factory and reloads I bet there is a significant difference with the reloads longer. Case mouth should show crimp marks if it was crimped and nothing else.
What chamber do you have? .223 Remington, 5.56 military, or Wilde? I have a barrel with a Wilde chamber and it is picky about case length and sticking in the leade area compared to .223 Remington.
If it is a long case issue DON'T FIRE THE RIFLE WITH RELOADS UNTIL THIS IS FIGURED OUT. Cases to long can cause extremly high pressures spikes as the bullet is monentarily stuck in the leade area. The brass is wedged between the bullet and the leade area of the chamber upon firing, not good.
When doing the test be careful to slowly pull back on the charging handle to get a feel for the factory case coming out of the chamber the difference in a unfired factory round and your unfired reloads could be minor before firing. You might try removing the upper and just dropping the unfired factory and reloaded rounds in the chamber give the round a little tap to seat it and then turn the muzzle up see if it drops right out or sticks indicating to long case. The problem is that when the bolt goes forward it has enough force to seat the long reload then when fired it gets stuck in the chamber leade enough that the extractor is pulling off the rim but not enough to stick unfired.
Of course you have checked your reloads in a Dillon case guage haven't you.

 

[loadedround]

It's just possible that you may need to use a small base resizing die with your Lee outfit. Try all the other suggestions before buying s SB die. A case gauge(any make) is also a very handy tool to have also.