polishing barell on CZ

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Yes, 400 grit wet/dry sand paper, or if you're not comfortable with that try some 600 grit. The 400 grit makes quicker work of polishing it.
It needs to be lubed, so you work up a slurry, this aids in polishing.
It also will remove some of the factory "markings" if you will.
Perfectly safe to use "sand paper" if wet/dry and lubed.

I wouldn't recommend Dremel tools at all. Do it by hand or on a bench grinder. I've seen more Dremel hack jobs on more firearms than I care to comment on.
 
Worked/works for me. Like I said, acts as a lube and creates a "slurry" which adds to the polishing effectiveness.

You can leave it when you're done with the 400 or step up to 600.

No problem.
 
I'd rather have the barrel hard chromed than polish off the hard surface. I've been tempted to do this with my PCR, but decided to just not fool with a good thing.

Stephen Camp had the barrel of his pre-B hard chromed if memory serves.
 
Remember, to hard chrome it they first have to remove the dull surface treatment and polish.

Also the surface hardening is only structurally important on the inside, the exterior hardening remove/polish won't affect the integrity of the barrel.
 
I'm having the barrel of my Tactical Sport polished up as we speak; Should be to me in a week or two.

I've seen several other CZ's done up with way, and have yet to hear anyone with a problem. Perhaps worrying over nothing?
 
Worrying over nothing. Maybe, maybe not.

Polishing = probably not a problem.

However, when you get to the point of using 400 grit sand paper, you're grinding/removing metal. That's a bit much. I've actually seen recommendations as low as 220 grit (on Czforum.com). That's getting absurd.

First try felt and Flitz. if that doesn't get you what you want, maybe try some 1000 grit. I wouldn't start any lower than 1000.

The other thing too is that some people say they've had no problems. How much have they shot? The hardening is intended to help with wear. You might not notice an issue after 1k rounds, but 20k rounds?

FWIW CZ recommends against the barrel polishing thing.
 
DISCLAIMER: I've been using moto-tools for fine scale modeling for over 20 years. I have a LOT of practice learning "the touch". If you don't know what you are doing with a Moto-tool you can mess up worse than you can imagine in a matter of seconds. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Having said that...

I have a nice CZ-75B Police model which has had the "visible" parts polished namely the visible part of the chamber and the very tip of the barrel.

It was done with some fine rouge and a moto-tool with assorted felt and cloth bits and buffers. and it looks GOOD. (I'll try to remember and photograph it when I get home).

It'd suck for "tactical" use though <grin>.
 
Atlblis,

Agreed. I was talking about fine polishing. I personally wouldn't be interested in hitting my barrel with 400 (or certainly 250). That strikes me as asking for trouble, especially if you are doing that to the lugs.

I sent mine to a professional plater/polisher, with directions not to mess with the lugs, and be VERY careful around the chamber/ramp area. He's fairly gun savvy, so I'm not expecting problems.

This is a race gun, meant to shoot Steel and USPSA Limited, so the round count will likely start to stack up soon. I'll certainly put the word out if anything seems amiss.
 
Agreed. I was talking about fine polishing. I personally wouldn't be interested in hitting my barrel with 400 (or certainly 250). That strikes me as asking for trouble, especially if you are doing that to the lugs.

I sent mine to a professional plater/polisher, with directions not to mess with the lugs, and be VERY careful around the chamber/ramp area. He's fairly gun savvy, so I'm not expecting problems.

That's the thing, you don't do the lugs. As far as that goes you don't do the chamber ramp area either.

Anyone with a thimble full of mechanical aptitude should be able to polish their CZ barrel. I choose to only polish the parts that show throught the ejection port.

400 grit with a couple of drops of oil and a light touch is perfect to start with.
I usually start with 600 wet/dry lubed then degrease and take it to my bench grinder with a felt wheel and some polishing compound.
You can achieve a mirror like finish in a few minutes.
It's really that simple.
 
Only other part of the barrel assembly that SOMETIMES and only if there are feed problems can be polished is the feed ramp and once again this POLISH, not SHAPE.
 
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