Polishing break action surfaces?

[spazman]

Hi folks,

Forgive me that I don't know the right terminology for all the parts I'm talking about! I hope you folks can use your psychic powers to understand what I'm trying to say!

My new break action .410 has about a hundred rounds through it, and the break action itself is really sticky still. It requires strength to break open and more strength to close it. The lever by the trigger guard is fine, it's the pressure between the metal pieces - the two large curved surfaces where the stock and the wooden grip attached to the barrel meet. If I remove the wooden grip, the barrel will simply fall when I break it open, so the point of friction is definitely in those metal surfaces.

How do I smooth out the action on this shotgun? Will polishing the blue off and buffing them smooth do it? There is already evidence of serious scratching and wear on these surfaces from normal use.

Thanks!

Spaz

 

[rcmodel]

Have you tried greasing the contact points??

Sounds like it is dry as a bone.

rc

 

[spazman]

It's all lubed up. Has been since the first day I had it, I took it completely apart and cleaned and oiled EVERYTHING.

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i like to play with my new toys watch tv open & close open & close open & close
see if that works befor you file or sand

 

[spazman]

I just fixed it - and yes, luckydawg, I did do that a lot already! LOL!

The way this break action is designed, when the front grip locks into place, it wedges that metal hinge piece between the stock and the tang coming off the bottom of the barrel (where the grip latches). The whole metal piece in the grip was about 1/2mm out of spec, so in the small area where the tang meets the hinge piece, I filed a minuscule amount away (from the part of the hinge that meets the tang - not from the barrel tang!).

No more hangups! I left just enough friction for the whole mechanism to feel comfortable, but not loose. I can break, load, and close the action one-handed if I use a bit of finesse.

 

[oneounceload]

If it is still this sticky after 10,000 then think about it; otherwise, normal use will let it work itself in over time

I can break, load, and close the action one-handed if I use a bit of finesse.[/QUOTE

Please do not "fling" it ope or closed in the same manner as some folks do with revolvers - that will damage the hinge pin area

 

[243winxb]

Great, you fixed it. Your now a gun smith. Lube with Break Free CLP. (Teflon).

 

[spazman]

If it is still this sticky after 10,000 then think about it; otherwise, normal use will let it work itself in over time

Please do not "fling" it ope or closed in the same manner as some folks do with revolvers - that will damage the hinge pin area

I don't intend to. Doing that with a live shell would be reckless.

Also, this was really darn tight - and now I think that the wear on the hinge surfaces was from this abnormal pressure. Almost all the bluing is gone on both hinge surfaces after maybe 200-300 cycles, 100 of which were live shells.