Polishing, stoning?

[905 Newbie]

Hi,

I just read a thread somewhere about changing the springs in a S&W 642 and polishing some of the trigger area using 600 grit sandpaper.

I recently did a "rampectomy" on a 380 semi and used a Makita drill wth a sanding bit [very steady hands ] and then I "polished" it by hand with 'OOOO' steel wool [shiny, smooth AND fixed my feeding problem].

Questions:

What is meant by stoning and/or polishing and what is the "right" way to do it?

Can you just use sandpaper and steel wool like I did?

Isn't 600 kind of rough to finish with?

Thanks,

Craig

 

[Old Fuff]

The internal parts of your S&W revolver are case hardened. This means that the part is relatively soft, but has a very hard "skin." If your polishing cuts through this hard surface the part will wear very quickly.

There is no need to polish the internal parts. Simply using the revolver, or dry firing it will cause the parts that are under pressure to burnish themselves without doing any damage. And unlike polishing, this will not void the factory warrantee.

Changing the springs can also be unwise. Yes you will get a lighter trigger pull, but you may also get misfires. These may not start at first, but over time they can appear. If the rebound slide (trigger return) spring is too light you can tie up the action and cause it to freeze if the trigger return is too slow, and you try to pull it backward before it has gone all of the way forward.

I know that it is dificult to control these little revolvers that must be fired using a double-action mode. But a better solution, and one that won't get you into trouble, is to replace the factory stocks with larger ones so that you will have more to hold onto.

I strongly advise you to put the sandpaper away...

 

[Firehand]

Stoning and polishing generally means using either a very fine polishing stone, usually much finer than 600 grit, or a felt wheel and polishing compound, to smooth the surface.

You specifically do NOT want to cut the entire surface all the way down to level if there are high spots; you just polish the high spots where there is contact between surfaces so they slip smoothly past each other.

Generally, if the parts are case-hardened, if you touch them at all you do the absolute minimum necessary. Otherwise, make sure it's all clean and use a really good lube on them.

 

[Old Fuff]

There is no need to polish the internal parts. Simply using the revolver, or dry firing it will cause the parts that are under pressure to burnish themselves without doing any damage. And unlike polishing, this will not void the factory warrantee.

 

[1911Tuner]

Polishing

There is a way to smooth things up quickly without voiding the warranty and without worrying with stones or proper technique...

Search the word "Slurry" and use the recipe to mix up an ounce or two. Remove the sideplate and lay it in the lockwork. Replace the sideplate and
dry-cycle the gun in DA mode while controlling the hammer...about 500 times should do. Rinse the goop out with carb cleaner...re-oil...and see how ya like.

For revolvers, I recommend mixing the stuff a little thinner than for finish lapping autopistol slides.

 

[905 Newbie]

Wow...thanks for all the info!

Now that I know what to do and what NOT to do, I think I'm just going to stick with dry firing. I'll just let my cats play with the Wolf Springs I got on Friday - should be fun for them.

Thanks again,

Craig

 

[Old Fuff]

One thing you can depend on in this forum is getting information on almost any gun-related subject. Some of it is contradictory of course because we don’t all walk in lockstep. But you can usually gain enough insights to make a rational decision. I hope you will continue to join us for an exchange of views.