Poor trigger on my Mossberg what can I do???

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Wedge

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I never really noticed the poor trigger on my Mossberg 500 until I purchased a SA Revolver (Ruger Blackhawk) and did a poor boy trigger job on the Blackhawk. The pistol's trigger will break just thinking about it. The shotgun's trigger leaves a lot to be desired.

1) I am not sure what the exact term is but I can apply a decent amount of pressure and the trigger will travel a short distance and then stop as I meet a larger resistance from the tigger. I don't know what that is called (creep?) but when I am sighting in the gun (used mostly for turkey and slugs) I think about it as "pre-loading" the trigger. Then I actually fire the shot by squezing harder.

I have no idea what the trigger pull on the shotgun is but I would guess that it is at least 4 times the trigger pull that is on my pistol (est. under 4 lbs on the pistol given what others have measured after doing the poor boy trigger job).

2) How can I fix this on a budget? The gun was only $259 and I would like to keep the costs to fix this awful trigger on a budget of under $200. Any more than tha and I am looking at starting up a savings fund for a much nicer shotgun.
 
What you are describing is take-up, which is common in many guns and usually not a problem. A heavy pull however can be. I don't know the mossberg but on my benelli auto I reduced the pull from 8 1/2 to 5 lbs just by carefully polishing all the contact surfaces. If you do it make sure you just use a fine stone and don't change any angles or round thinks off. Just polish the existing surfaces.
 
Is there any way to reduce take up?

Would my fine sharpening stone work or should I use some fine (600+ grit) sand paper?
 
The Mossberg 500 uses a disconnector that also serves as the transfer bar for the trigger to sear mechanizim. Since the disconnector has to move verticaly as well as horizontaly , taking up slack is not realy an option. The hammer & sear can be worked using the standard engagement quidlines . Not sure what the poor mans trigger job is but wouldn't want any of my firearms to go off by just thinking about it ! The tear down of the trigger group is a bit tricky so if you haven't done one before you may want to get one of the dis-assembly guides that cover this model before you start. You can also effect trigger pull by changing springs - the hammer spring is an easy one to do but you must leave enough spring tension to assure proper hammer force for firing.

:D :D
 
Telepathic trigger is okay, it is kind of like using the force. Actually it isn't too light and works well.

The poor boy trigger job is just removing one leg of the U-shaped trigger spring and applying a little pressure upwards on the hammer while dry firing. The trigger is pretty light, not gritty and doesn't exhibit any take-up. Breaking glass.

Thanks for the advice on the Mossberg.
 
Uhh, guys....

I do NOT recommend shooters doing their own triggers any more than I recommend the average driver doing his/her brakes. I've been around a few unintentional discharges resulting from kitchen table smithing (not mine) and find these events quite distressing.

What one can do, though, is cleaning and lubing everything. Oft this takes a few lbs off. And crisps up the feel. Drop the TG, spray with cleaner, shake off, relube lightly.

And getting a decent trigger isn't expensive. A local smith did my last one for about $40, IIRC.

I do recommend light, clean triggers. I do NOT recommend the ignorant rushing in where good smiths tread lightly. And I've seen good smiths change a pull greatly with two or three strokes of a fine stone.

(Dismounting from soapbox)....
 
OK - Which one of you guys was ignorantly rushing in ?? I know it couldn't be me because I do my own brakes ! I also recommend "standard engagement quidlines" ( sort of like Mete explained ) If your not familiar with this type of work however , I recommend you listen to Dave's cautions and find a good smith to do your trigger - point well taken ! :D :D
 
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