I have an old 740 30-06 that I reload for. I've seen several times where only IMR or Hodgdon 4895 should be used for Garands and all other autoloaders. Nothing slower than IMR 4064. The reason given is you want a quicker burning powder to prevent damage to the Garand's operating rod. OK, fine. But why should it make any difference for Remingtons and BARs? I put together some rounds with H414, H4350 and Re19 before coming across this information and my rifle seemed to function just fine with no obvious damage and good velocities. On the other hand, velocities with the H4895 were only in the 2500's with a near max load and 165g bullets. I don't want to damage my gun but I would like to experiment with some other powders if there's no real reason not to. I wonder if the factory guys pigeonhole themselves into these few powders just in case someone may use them in an autoloader. Thanks.
Powder for Autoloaders
- Thread starter Eagle103
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ocabj
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4895 is the defacto powder for Garands, but not for all other autoloaders. The M14 and M16 can get away with other powders. The M16 gas system is a lot more forgiving than the M14, which in turn is slightly more forgiving than the M1.
As far as other autoloading rifles out there, the type of powder you should use is basically dependent on what will cycle the action safely and with the safe pressure range.
As far as factory ammo manufacturers, none of them, that I know of, specifically make ammunition for autoloading centerfires. That's why people always recommend against using new commercial ammunition in Garands (without a modified gas system/plug).
IE: I don't know of anyone that makes new ammo specifically for use in the M1 Garand. PMC supposedly makes on sold with the 'M2' moniker. I don't think they released what powder is used in it, though.
As far as other autoloading rifles out there, the type of powder you should use is basically dependent on what will cycle the action safely and with the safe pressure range.
As far as factory ammo manufacturers, none of them, that I know of, specifically make ammunition for autoloading centerfires. That's why people always recommend against using new commercial ammunition in Garands (without a modified gas system/plug).
IE: I don't know of anyone that makes new ammo specifically for use in the M1 Garand. PMC supposedly makes on sold with the 'M2' moniker. I don't think they released what powder is used in it, though.
ocabj
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I have no knowledge of the Model 740 except for what I just Googled for 5 minutes ago. From what I can tell, it's a gas operated autoloading rifle made in the 50s. From what I researched, it was offered in .30-06, .240, .280, and .308. Since it was offered in those chamberings, I assume that it is designed for commercial ammunition, and therefore, load data for .30-06 found in your manuals should suffice. BUT, I would probably call Remington to get more info. I'm am pretty sure they will give you the safest advice.
The Garand is a unique rifle in that it is a military rifle and it was designed within certain specifications. They made it for a specific cartridge type. Not .30-06, but for USGI .30CAL M2 ammunition.
The Garand is a unique rifle in that it is a military rifle and it was designed within certain specifications. They made it for a specific cartridge type. Not .30-06, but for USGI .30CAL M2 ammunition.
I've got an early Rem 742 Woodmaster and I've loaded it over the years with nothing but IMR 4350 using 150, 165, and 180 grain bullets. It's none the worse for wear having hundreds of rounds fired. I recently got a Garand and tested 4895 in the 742 also. It functioned fine with the 4895 powder loads. I don't think any slower than 4350 powder would be beneficial in your 740 as the barrel length is probably 22 inches?? You're not going to get velocities equal to published data using 24 and 26 test barrels. My Garand shoots the same loads faster than the 742.
Since your 740 Rem has much sentimental value I would'nt push the limit on velocities and I would baby it and not shoot it excessively and not get it hot by shooting rapidly but I 'd keep it in service and enjoy shooting a prized keepsake.
Also, since you clean the barrel from the muzzle, don't use a jointed steel or even aluminum cleaning rod. Get a good coated, such as Dewey, cleaning rod and even a muzzle guide. You'll do more damage to the rifle improperly cleaning it from the muzzle than shooting it. You can damage the crown and wear the barrel easily from improper cleaning.
Since your 740 Rem has much sentimental value I would'nt push the limit on velocities and I would baby it and not shoot it excessively and not get it hot by shooting rapidly but I 'd keep it in service and enjoy shooting a prized keepsake.
Also, since you clean the barrel from the muzzle, don't use a jointed steel or even aluminum cleaning rod. Get a good coated, such as Dewey, cleaning rod and even a muzzle guide. You'll do more damage to the rifle improperly cleaning it from the muzzle than shooting it. You can damage the crown and wear the barrel easily from improper cleaning.
Thanks for the advice. I really like shooting this gun so I would hate to retire it but I will try to limit my shooting. The H414 is a little quicker than the IMR 4350 so I'm guessing it should be OK. I was getting some nice results with it.
snuffy
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limit it to 165's
One aspect of the early rem auto's,(740-742), continued use of 180 grain bullets, (with slow burn rate powders), is overdriving the gas/bolt system. The bolt overtravels and stops suddenly in the back of the reciever. This causes the locking lugs to bite into the bolt guide track. If they do this enough, they will eventually jam there. Not much can be done to fix them at that point, a gunsmith MAY be able to peen the rail back to allow the bolt to NOT jam there, but it's a limited fix.
150 and 165 grain bullets along with reasonable charges of powder on the fast side of H 414 will work just fine.
One aspect of the early rem auto's,(740-742), continued use of 180 grain bullets, (with slow burn rate powders), is overdriving the gas/bolt system. The bolt overtravels and stops suddenly in the back of the reciever. This causes the locking lugs to bite into the bolt guide track. If they do this enough, they will eventually jam there. Not much can be done to fix them at that point, a gunsmith MAY be able to peen the rail back to allow the bolt to NOT jam there, but it's a limited fix.
150 and 165 grain bullets along with reasonable charges of powder on the fast side of H 414 will work just fine.
Bottom Gun
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I have used IMR 4064, 4895, 3031 and 4831 powders to load for my 742 carbine in .30-06. I have also used Win 748.
It has worked well with every powder I've tried.
It has worked well with every powder I've tried.
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