Powder measure hopper got me

[BillBloggins]

I was in the midst of loading up some 9mm on my Hornady LnL when the hopper fell off my powder measure. Man, I had it half full of Universal when it spun off. Powder of course went everywhere and I have to admit I said several bad words, some of them several times.
Never had this happen with Lyman or RCBS measures, shows me I better periodically check the Hornady hopper to make sure it is on nice and tight.

 

[WestKentucky]

Find a way to lock it down. One of my Lee imPerfects is a bit loose on the stand and it has wiggled off where the two hex pieces slip-fit together. There's a plastic wingnut rigged on there now on all of my imPerfect drops. On a RCBS I once used a die collar as a lock nut. I think it was a Lee hex ring with the o-ring.

I'm not sure how your unit is mounted, but there's gotta be a better way that's a simple mod. Lord knows how much stuff I have drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 bolt into just to have a simple locked position.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I put a dab of Goop adhesive at the base of my LnL Hopper to prevent such occurances.

 

[Axis II]

I did this with my Lee PPM the other day I usually throw 4-5 charges when switching weights from say 45-70 to 223rem and use an old 45-70 case to throw the charges in well it must have gotten clogged or something cause I feel it go into the 45-70 case and dump the case into the hopper and all of a sudden like 4 throws comes out of the freaking measure into my little Tupperware bowl I have under it. I was so mad I wasted about 5 shots worth of powder. One day ill pitch that lee junk and get a good one but I weigh and trickle all rifle rounds so works for now.

 

[typhun]

The plastic cylinder attachment of the LNL hopper tube is a weak link. The attachment has you screwing the straight wall plastic tube with no threads into the base, kind of self tapping it. I have had to cut the bad deformed end off of mine once already to get a fresh surface to tighten into the base. I think the powder also contributes to softening the plastic. The metal base looks like it is cut with threads, i keep thinking i should figure out what thread they are and find an adapter to actually use them as a better way to mount the plastic cylinder. Does anyone know if there is something on the market already that does this.

I wonder if this is tube is threaded, con you cant see powder level without peering in the top.
Lock-N-Load® Blackpowder Powder Measure
Item #050110




http://wardlance.com/hornady.html

updated link for the pyrex
https://dramworx.com/products/hornady/

 

[MutinousDoug]

Just a word to the wise here; Using a vacuum cleaner to pick up powder is not recommended. Most vacuums are made of plastic and carpets made of wool or polyester collect a lot of static. The grey coating on most powder is conductive to resist charge build up but there's a limit to it's effectiveness and black powder is mostly carbon so it's naturally conductive but when there is no place to discharge via the plastic machine? Shake your rugs out to clean or run your powder loading over a concrete or conductive floor so you can sweep it up with a broom if you spill.

 

[WestKentucky]

Cast aluminum with a press-fit plastic tube... ok I will refrain from commenting on that.

Small drill bit through the casting on opposite sides. Smaller drill bit in corresponding location into the tube. Short screws through aluminum and into the polycarbonate tube...secured. if ya want to get real fancy L slot the holes on the cast aluminum for quick release, just make sure you have enough tension on the screws to hold it firm.

 

[9mmepiphany]

updated link for the pyrex
https://dramworx.com/products/hornady/

This is what I'll be getting as soon as I get the Xmas bills under control.

Besides being secured to the base, it also won't discolor

 

[Slamfire]

My "Pacific - Hornady" Deluxe powder measure has the reservoir secured to the body with two screws. My measure is a late 1970's measure, been using it for almost 40 years. I don't think I have loaded a 100,000 rounds with it, but I have loaded multiples of tens of thousands.

I have no idea why they changed the design, this is a better and more secure way to attach the reservoir tube than the current LNL. I did have the reservior on my Dillion 550B powder measure get loose, and it is similarly attached as the LNL, thankfully I did not spill a pound of powder on the floor.

 

[Dudedog]

I put a dab of clear silicone caulk on each side, can be peeled of easy if necessary.

updated link for the pyrex
https://dramworx.com/products/hornady/

Neat!

Side note: LIke my Lee Auto Drum, cursed Lee since the hopper is not held on with screws like the Lee auto disk.
I remembered this shortly after going to empty it the 1st time I used it.

 

[cfullgraf]

Small drill bit through the casting on opposite sides. Smaller drill bit in corresponding location into the tube. Short screws through aluminum and into the polycarbonate tube...secured. if ya want to get real fancy L slot the holes on the cast aluminum for quick release, just make sure you have enough tension on the screws to hold it firm.

This is basically how Redding attaches the hoppers to their powder measures. Positive attachment method and works quite well.

The set screw is long enough to just pass through the hole in the hopper material and be flush with the outside of the casting. A little extra length on the screw as it extends into the hopper probably will not affect anything except catch a few grains of powder.

Redding does have a "fancy" set screw with the threads turned off the inner half so that only a smooth cylinder penetrates the hopper and allows for a smaller hole to be drilled in the hopper.

 

[Blue68f100]

I used some RTV adhesive/sealant on mine. I think the win plastic they use also flows with heat. When my unit was setup in the garage the Texas summer heat would make it loosen up pretty quick. I have since moved it into a climate control room which helps a lot. Have not had a problem since. Some powders do attack the plastic, the main reason to empty it after use.

 

[Mike44]

Before I load my Hornady LNL powder measure, I give the plastic cylinder a twist to make certain it is seated all the way. If the cylinder is seated, I don' t see any way that the cylinder can come out during a reloading session.

 

[dwhitekc]

A related question for those with more experience (almost everyone in other words ):

Between uses, I've started storing my LNL powder measure in an ammo box with desiccants to prevent any further rust (already got a very thin film of rust in places). But this necessitates me removing the plastic hopper every time.

Will this repeated removal and reinstalling of the plastic tube weaken it? I really don't want to experience what the OP did with a full load of powder in the hopper.

 

[DRAINSMITH]

My son in law had the same problem. I went over to see if I could figure out his problem. I pulled the handle on his press one time I then grabbed his bench and shook it until a die fell off the shelf. I then whacked him in the back of his head and walked out. About a month later I came back and his bench was solid and he hasn't had another problem.
I never said a word to him. This is what I call a lesson of common sense from the school of hard knocks.

 

[Blue68f100]

Yes, not recommended. To prevent it from rusting use some Paste Wax for floors ( waxed used for cars may work too) to seal the exposed surfaces. I did a copper plate on the rotor almost 10 yrs ago. Discolored with use but still protecting it from rusting.

 

[AR-Bossman]

It's a bit strange to see the same issues pop up over and over as if people are not doing ANY research on the stuff they buy. I had my hopper drilled and tapped long before it ever saw powder. Along with the upgraded rubber twist lock bushing o-ring.

 

[rskent]

OK, the Pyrex hopper is pretty sweet. But I’m way too cheap, so clear silicon adhesive for me.

 

[Rule3]

DUCT TAPE!

Comes in several designer colors now.

 

[Allen One1]

Black electrical tape wrapped about 1/2 way around the bottom of the plastic cylinder. Shove it in the base and it is tight. The silicone doesn't sound like a bad idea either.

If you look at the new powder measures you will see one or two white plastic buttons that hold the plastic cylinder in place.

 

[Kaldor]

This is what I'll be getting as soon as I get the Xmas bills under control.

Besides being secured to the base, it also won't discolor

Same here. Should be immune to static as well. My tube is black, mostly from large volumes of TiteGroup going thru it.

 

[rsrocket1]

A related question for those with more experience (almost everyone in other words ):
Will this repeated removal and reinstalling of the plastic tube weaken it? I really don't want to experience what the OP did with a full load of powder in the hopper.

Yes
From someone who removed the hopper every time I finished a loading session, it does get looser over the years. The loosening comes from wearing down the plastic through friction. I no longer disassemble the hopper when dumping the powder back into its container. Just tap it and rotate it to get as much out from under the baffle and afterwards, work the powder drop a few times.