Powder scoop set or Auto-Drum?

[NoirFan]

Hi all, beginner reloader here. I just set up my Lee turret press last week and have been making mid-range 38 special ammo (3.1 gr HP38, 158 gr plated bullet). Here's what I have so far:

Lee Turret Press w/ 4-die set
One powder scoop .5CC
RCBS 502 scale

So as you can see, very basic setup. I'd like to speed up the powder charging process since right now I'm weighing every charge on the scale, and my powder scoop is not in a convenient increment for fast measure - the charge is about 1/2 of the scoop which is hard to eyeball.

So for my kind of usage, should I get a powder scoop set with smaller more convenient increments, or an auto-drum for totally automatic charging?

Here's my setup by the way:

Middle-of-the-road 38s with a light roll crimp:

Thanks!

 

[jell-dog]

Hi all, beginner reloader here. I just set up my Lee turret press last week and have been making mid-range 38 special ammo (3.1 gr HP38, 158 gr plated bullet). Here's what I have so far:

Lee Turret Press w/ 4-die set
One powder scoop .5CC
RCBS 502 scale

So as you can see, very basic setup. I'd like to speed up the powder charging process since right now I'm weighing every charge on the scale, and my powder scoop is not in a convenient increment for fast measure - the charge is about 1/2 of the scoop which is hard to eyeball.

So for my kind of usage, should I get a powder scoop set with smaller more convenient increments, or an auto-drum for totally automatic charging?

Here's my setup by the way:

Middle-of-the-road 38s with a light roll crimp:

Thanks!

NoirFan,
I strongly recommend the Auto Drum and also get the riser for it.
Easy to dial in your powder charge and very accurate.
Hope this helps.
JD

 

[mdi]

I would get a powder measure. I started with a Lee PPM and use it now for some powders (my measure will hold +/- .1 grain of W231 quite easily), along with my C-H 502 for rifle powders. I've read some good posts concerning the Auto Drum (why doe Lee call their tools either "Classic" or "Auto"?) and would not hesitate to get one. Develop your "style" of using the Auto Drum, or any other measure, before you trust your measure to drop within +/- .5 gr (do every motion the same, every time. Consistency of use is essential to consistency of charges). I started "drop and trickling" my powder charges when I first got my PPM and I think it's a good idea for a new user...

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Here is how I set mine up. Any good powder measure will work. I got this one and several other on ebay pretty cheap.

 

[Zendude]

You can get the AutoDisk or AutoDrum and use a powder check die. Since plated bullets really don't need a crimp, you can just use the seating die to take the flare out of the case and leave out the crimp die.

 

[JO JO]

I would get the auto drum because it's adjustable to what you want to throw the dippers are nice but are a fixed amount and the chart that comes with them is not always accurate unless you alter the dipper to the charge you want then you need to make sure you scoop the powder the same way each time, since you have a turret get the auto drum ,
I have an auto drum on mine works great once it's set to what I want , and with ball powder mine is very accurate and consistent for what it cost I am happy with mine

 

[judgedelta]

The auto-drum with riser on the classic turret will make your loading so fast and easy, you'll grin and wonder why you waited so long. If you load more than one caliber, you can get the extra doo-dads (?) for cheap and not have to adjust your dropper when you change calibers. Just check your loads when you set it up, until you are confident that you have the right load, then check every once in a while and you're good to go.

 

[Ramone]

*IF* you're planning on just loading a particular load for awhile, I would make a Dipper for it.

Take a clean, fired case, primer still in it, carefully load it with the exact charge you have decided on, measure and Mark the case at that level, and cut it. I've used a hacksaw and a tubing cutter to do it, and the tubing cutter is easier, if you have one, and it fits. De burr the cut end.

Make a handle with a bit of copper wire, coat hanger, I use a bit of SS TIG welding rod, whatever you have handy. Double it over, put the cut down case in the night, and twist it down till it's a tight fit.

Easy, peasey. And free!

 

[thomas15]

. I've read some good posts concerning the Auto Drum (why doe Lee call their tools either "Classic" or "Auto"?)

And "Pro" you left out Pro. And "Safety", don't forget safety.

 

[thomas15]

NoirFan,

You really should look into a case activated powder measure as it will speed things up a lot. Once you start to pile up on the tooling and components and the weather gets nice you will no longer have the excuse that ammo costs are keeping you from shooting and thus your consumption of ammo will increase at an alarming rate.

Another thing that will help speed things up is either an on-press priming tool or a bench mounted priming tool. With your set-up probably the best for you will be the Lee on-press priming tool so you will not have to take the brass out of the shell holder to prime then put it back in to finish the round.

The Lee die called the factory crimp that is the 4th in your set (38/357) will put a roll crimp on your finished round. The 3rd die is a combo seating and crimp die. The instructions that come with the set are not very clear. What I do, and I'm not the measure of all things, but consider backing the seating die out about 2 turns and then adjust the seat stem to the desired amount. Then back out the stem on the 4th crimp die out, run the round up and down into the die and turn the screw down until you feel resistance. Then make slight adjustments to get the crimp you want.

 

[someguy2800]

Auto drum and a Lee turret rocks! Next best thing to a progressive. I shoot to many calibers for a progressive to make sense for me. Love it

 

[Wis-Harpo]

I have the LCT like so many others. I installed the Auto drum using the riser. The only problem that when following directions, I did not get enough bell in my .45 ACP brass. I did not let the slider drop tube make contact with the top of the slot, and stopped as close as I could get. But when I took off the riser, I got enough bell in my brass. I do not use Lee's priming system on my press, so I guess the riser was not needed. Any suggestions why I could not get enough bell using the riser???

 

[GBExpat]

So for my kind of usage, should I get a powder scoop set with smaller more convenient increments, or an auto-drum for totally automatic charging?

Auto-drum for totally automatic charging.

 

[Load Master]

Yep, another vote for the Lee Auto Drum. Once setup the unit will duplicate drop after drop. NOTE: This video show a unit with the disconnector removed. If you run it as received from Lee you have to push a reset button before each powder drop.

 

[rfwobbly]

Any automatic powder measure is going to be far, far better than manual scoops.
1. It's simply faster.
2. It's safer because the human factor is removed.

You wouldn't think your humanity would get involved, but there are all types of interruptions to distract the mind. The major factor in why "mass produced goods" are better than "home made" is that machines don't ever get phone calls from their mother-in-law ! Once set, the machine keeps making the same part over and over.

And therein lies the pit fall. If the powder measure is not set correctly, then you'll be making mistakes faster too. One of my favorite ways to insure proper setting is to dump 10 times and weigh. So when seeking 3.1gr, dump 10 times and see how close you land to 31.0gr. No powder measure is dead nuts, but this averaging method will get you closer than most any other process.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bartojc]

For what you are doing a automatic powder measure for charging on press will speed things up quite a bit. Once set it should provide consistent throws. There are many to choose from, but the Lee Auto-Drum is a good choice for you. It has history of providing consistent throws, its infinitely adjustable within the given drum, and the price is very competitive. Get a riser to mount the throw on your existing charging die, and you'll wonder how you got along without it.

-Jeff

 

[wally]

No brainer. Get a scale and a powder measure. Adjustable or fixed volume disks or cylinders doesn't mater.

My first batch of reloads was done with the "dipper". A scale and powder measure were my second reloading purchase. Third was a vibratory tumbler to clean the brass.

 

[NoirFan]

Thanks all. Looks like overwhelming agreement on the Auto Drum. I'll pick one up soon.

NoirFan,
You really should look into a case activated powder measure as it will speed things up a lot. Once you start to pile up on the tooling and components and the weather gets nice you will no longer have the excuse that ammo costs are keeping you from shooting and thus your consumption of ammo will increase at an alarming rate. Another thing that will help speed things up is either an on-press priming tool or a bench mounted priming tool. With your set-up probably the best for you will be the Lee on-press priming tool so you will not have to take the brass out of the shell holder to prime then put it back in to finish the round. The Lee die called the factory crimp that is the 4th in your set (38/357) will put a roll crimp on your finished round. The 3rd die is a combo seating and crimp die. The instructions that come with the set are not very clear. What I do, and I'm not the measure of all things, but consider backing the seating die out about 2 turns and then adjust the seat stem to the desired amount. Then back out the stem on the 4th crimp die out, run the round up and down into the die and turn the screw down until you feel resistance. Then make slight adjustments to get the crimp you want.

That's how I set up my dies too. For priming, I just use the priming arm that came with the press, placing them in by hand. It works well and doesn't take long so I think I'll stick with that. I read that a lot of people prime/deprime off-press, what is the benefit of that?

You can get the AutoDisk or AutoDrum and use a powder check die. Since plated bullets really don't need a crimp, you can just use the seating die to take the flare out of the case and leave out the crimp die.

Hi, I like putting a slight roll crimp on them so they load smoothly with speedloaders. Looking at some pulled bullets, there is only a faint crimp line in the plating. I haven't noticed an accuracy problem yet. Is this a bad thing?

Thanks

 

[Slinger]

That's how I set up my dies too. For priming, I just use the priming arm that came with the press, placing them in by hand. It works well and doesn't take long so I think I'll stick with that. I read that a lot of people prime/deprime off-press, what is the benefit of that?

Some reloaders like the "feel" of priming by hand. That is to say they feel the primer going to the right depth. If you are getting the proper seating depth priming by your setup then go with it. You just don't want those primers to stick above the case. You might look into the Lee Auto-Prime for your setup (not sure if that's the correct name). It mounts to the press and puts a primer on the priming arm when you pull down on the press lever.

 

[mdi]

I've always used a bench mounted powder measure. I batch load so I usually have a bunch of primed brass waiting for a powder charge and bullet and it's way easier to throw powder charges from my bench mounted measure than set up a single stage press or install the measure on my turret press. I charge a bunch of cases and the last thing I do before I seat a bullet is look in every case to make sure there are no double charges or "empties"...

I've never been a fan of hand priming tools, I've had three different makes and none seen to fit my hands (I have to reset the tool in my hand after every squeeze) and feel is somewhat less than other tools. I discovered ram priming in the '80s and used one up until about a year ago when I bought a Lee Bench Prime. I found the ram prime to be an exacting and positive way to stuff primers in cases and could easily feel the seating process. Some don't like handling primers individually, but I have never been in a hurry for any reloading process. My new Co-Ax press has a similar priming system to the ram prime and I've been using that when I'm just reloading a box of ammo.

 

[ATLDave]

Auto-drum. No question about it.

 

[Zendude]

Hi, I like putting a slight roll crimp on them so they load smoothly with speedloaders. Looking at some pulled bullets, there is only a faint crimp line in the plating. I haven't noticed an accuracy problem yet. Is this a bad thing?

Thanks

As long as the plating isn't cracked then it's good to go. If you don't use a powder check die, just test maybe 1 out of every 10 or 20 for the correct powder weight before seating the bullet.

 

[Schwing]

You won't be sorry you get the auto-drum. I own several now. I understand the appeal of using dippers but I have never had super great luck with their consistency. I know a lot of people swear by them but with some powders it can take just a couple of flakes to vary .1 grain. My shaky hands just don't seem to be that consistent.

To be sure and dispenser can be irregular as well. You just need to get a feel for the accuracy range of yours once you have some experience with it and either use a powder check or manual check each case.

 

[NoirFan]

Some reloaders like the "feel" of priming by hand. That is to say they feel the primer going to the right depth. If you are getting the proper seating depth priming by your setup then go with it. You just don't want those primers to stick above the case. You might look into the Lee Auto-Prime for your setup (not sure if that's the correct name). It mounts to the press and puts a primer on the priming arm when you pull down on the press lever.

I've heard mixed things about the Auto-Prime. Some reviews say it jams or drop primers a lot, is that true in your experience?

Putting individual primers into the on-press priming arm is a bit slow, but tolerable to me. The powder measuring step is where I really want to speed things up.

Thanks

 

[Dudedog]

You really should look into a case activated powder measure as it will speed things up a lot.

Night and day, you will be happy, money well spent.
Once I have the measure setup I like to check every 10 round or so.
The measure comes with a "safety" bar to help prevent double charging. I think it's a pain and likely to lead to a missed charge (squib).
The old instructions showed how to remove it but I have heard the new ones don't.
Search for Lee Auto drum here and you should find them.
(I will look and add the link when I have a chance)