Precision rifle n00b question

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Ragnar Danneskjold

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I am considering getting into the field of precision rifles. I am looking to buy a Remington 700 SPS tactical(when I can find one) and a Nikon Buckmaster 3-9x 40mm scope. First question, is this a decent scope? It's mainly just for paper punching at 500ish yards. I don't hunt, and don't really plan to. And the main question, do I need to buy any extra mounting stuff in order to get it to mount to the rifle? The only experiance I have with optics is mounting red dot sights to flat top AR15s. Eotechs have picatinny rail mounts built in, so nothing extra is needed. I know that scopes have rings that the scope sits in that attach to the rifle. Does the Nikon scope come with rings for it? Will thse rings mount right to the rifle? Do I need to get something like a rail system that bolts to the rifle that the rings then attach to? Basically, what extra stuff is needed other than the rifle and the scope to make them fit together?
 
You need a:

1. Base, and
2. a pair of Rings, which match the base type

The base can be (a) one-piece or (b) two-piece. I like 1-piece but either is fine - doesn't matter.

The base can be (a) double-dovetail, (b) standard dovetail (dovetail front and adjustable rear), or (c) Weaver/P-rail style. I prefer (a) - double dovetail for maximum solidness, but with proper (quality) rings, they will all work just fine.

I prefer steel bases and steel rings, not aluminum, but it makes your gun a smidge heavier.

The rings need to match the base type. If it's a 2-dovetail base, then you need that style rings, and so one. There are more ring choices nowadays for the Weaver/P-rail type of bases. The rings also must match your tube size (either 1" or 30mm), as well as being the right height for the scope bell sizes used.

Installation is another matter. Weaver/P-rail types are also easier to install for the rookie.
 
Buckmasters are great scopes, but that isn't much power if you plan to shoot over 200 yards. You can do it, but...........
 
It depends on the scope you purchase. Based on the specs of the scope it will have a certain diameter tube, commonly that will be 30mm or 1". Purchase rings accordingly.


You might try www.SWFA.com They have some great prices and also have a forum where they will answer questions about what you plan to purchase and can steer you in the right direction.



As far as the power of the scope goes, that's up to you. Plenty of people will say that for the ranges you are looking at, 9X would be more than enough while others will want more.

One thing to consider is the adjustments for elevation and windage. The amount of adjustment available per click will determine the smallest repeatable group you can expect. So, for precision shooting smaller will be better. But you'll also have to temper that with the number of clicks/turns needed to make your needed adjustments. 1MOA adjustments are going to require less turns compared to 1/8MOA adjustments....while 1/4MOA seem to be a relatively standard offering on many scopes.
 
If you're shooting 12" steel plates at 500, a 9x would probably be fine. If you're shooting a 500 yard F-Class target at 500, you'll be guessing. If you don't get fine cross hairs, you may not even be able to see a 12" steel plate at 500.
 
I forgot a couple of things in my post above -

-The base needs to be *specifically* made for your rifle - it needs to be marked "Remington 700, short action" if a 1-piece base or simply "Remington 700" if 2-piece base.
-*Depending upon* the number of adjustment clicks range available in the scope you use (the # of MOAs of adjustment range), you may or may not need a special angled base, such as a "20 MOA base". You probably do NOT need such a special base for shooting at just 500 yards, if using a scope with a fairly good adjustment range. Scopes with 30mm tubes usually have a wider adjustment range than 1" tubes.

-I also highly recommend a higher power scope for those looooong distances, with a top end at least 18x-20x, and an objective lens 44-50 mm.
-Also, the scope needs to have external (non-covered) audible/tactile click adjustment knobs (i.e. "target knobs"), so that you can get on target mathematically from your 100 yard zero, quickly/efficiently.
 
Get as much internal adjustment as you can (50+ is good). If you get Burris Signature Zee rings, you can use offset plastic inserts to add MOA if you need it. And they don't mess up your scope.
 
I suggest getting a better scope. Some will say that Nikon/Burris/Sightron/Simmons makes a good scope and that it will work, but they aren't the same as a Swarovski/Leupold/Nightforce. The difference between my 6.5-20x50 Vari-X III and my dad's stinky ol' sightron is huge, even after the sightron was highly recommended for thier warranty.

Get a Leupold, you won't be disappointed.
 
Some will say that Nikon/Burris/Sightron/Simmons makes a good scope and that it will work, but they aren't the same as a Swarovski/Leupold/Nightforce.

Get a Leupold, you won't be disappointed.
Click to expand...

You may very well be happy with a Leupold, but that first allegation doesn't fly with me. Now if you had said:

Some will say that Nikon/Burris/Sightron/Simmons makes a good scope and that it will work, but they aren't the same as a Swarovski/Nightforce.
Click to expand...

without Leupold, then I'd fully agree. But there are many lines of Burris, Bushnell, Nikon, and Sightron which are far far better than the lower lines of Leupold. Just not true at all any more like it may have once been. Signature Select, Black Diamond, Elite 4200, Monarch, Monarch Gold, Tactical, S3 - these all easily blow out of the water Leupold Rifleman, Vari-X 1, and Vari-X 2. I know Loopys are made in your home state, but that doesn't make them a Swarovski, Zeiss, Schmidt & Bender, Nightforce, Kahles, US Optics, etc. The UPPER end Leupolds, yes, but not the run of the mill Leupolds. You must distinguish which line you're talking about - huge difference.
 
The UPPER end Leupolds, yes, but not the run of the mill Leupolds. You must distinguish which line you're talking about - huge difference.
Click to expand...

My bad, didn't mean to confuse/mis-represent. I don't have very much experience with lower end Leupolds and was refering to the upper end "loopys".
 
Well i don't plan on entering the International Sniper Competition juist yet. I don't have an extra 1000 to blow on a scope. Im just looking for something decent that is't a WalMart/Dunhams BSA piece of crap so I can learn to shot precision rifles. I can get a better scope later on, I just don't wanna start out with crap.
 
Check out the Super Sniper line of scopes offered by www.SWFA.com . They are really surprising for a $299 scope. They offer a 10X, 16X and 20X scope. They also offer a 10X with side parallax adjustment for $399.

Read some of the reviews...while I've not read of anyone pulling off their $1200 Leupold Mark 4s there have been quite a few close comparisons made between the two.

If you don't mind a fixed power scope I think it could make you pretty happy without lightening your wallet to much.

http://www.swfa.com/c-231-super-sniper-rifle-scopes.aspx
 
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