prepping a scope for paint

[greyling22]

In short, what do you do to prep a silver scope for paint?

In long: I was given a cheap simmons pistol scope a while back and tossed it on a carbine as a scout scope to tide me over till I could get a good one. Well, it has worked out pretty well for me (and I'm currently broke) so I thought I would keep it longer. The problem is, I don't like the silver. So I thought, enh, what the hey, I'll try painting it. I wiped it down with alcohol, let it dry, then hit it with a cheap can of flat black krylon. Looks good, but the paint scratches off pretty easy.

So, I supposed I could try and take the black off with acetone or something, then try and scuff up the body with some find sand paper or steel wool and hope the paint grabs better. Or I could try a better can of paint. Any idea about the best low cost option for me?

PS: I know somebody will suggest it, so I'm going to say this now "throw it away and get a good scope", or "pay a lot and have it duracoated" while perhaps the best 2 answers, and not helpful. Child #1 is due any day and there is no money for toys at the moment. $10 limit on this project.

 

[jmr40]

A camo job with your favorite rattle cans works great and hides imperfections better than a solid color. Can be touched up easy too if you do get scratches. Remember, you're trying to do this cheap. Several cans of paint and a lot of work are going to be worth more than the scope. Don't complicate things too much.

 

[greyling22]

don't I know it. I'm not trying for anything fancy. I'm just trying to get the paint to stick better. Other wise I would be done and happy with my 0 dollars currently spent paint job. The color is a nice uniform flat black. I can paint, just a little fuzzy on the prep work for a scope. Never painted anodized aluminum or whatever is silver scope is.

 

[TTundra]

Get the clear matte coat from Brownells. Its helps protect the paint. I paint all my rifles/scopes with the krylon camo and then hit it with matte clear coat. Lasts longer, still wears a little eventually, but then you get the good "I'm actually a used rifle" look.

 

[Rule3]

Regular cheap spray paint does not stick well to aluminum. You really have to use a etching primer and they spray with a good paint.

As with any painting prep work is most of the work. Sand it lightly so it has some tooth to the finish, tape off the glass or use a grease pen on it.

Brownells Aluma Hyde is a great product for this but expensive especially when shipped. Auto places have etching primer for aluminum wheels and a Matte black paint. Wal mart carries wheel paint in the auto section not the paint section.

 

[rbernie]

Zinc chromate primers are the standard for prepping aluminum for painting, but if you can't get any you can always get rattle can primer:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...pray-Primer-254170/202531910?N=5yc1vZbt0tZbm1

 

[PowerG]

Paint needs a profile to hold onto, that's the reason metal is sanded (or sandblasted), to rough it up to give the paint something to "grip". Then the paint should be kept as thin as possible while still giving enough coverage for the surface to smooth out. If it's too thick it will have less "grip". You've got the right idea.

Aluminum forms an oxide on the surface almost immediately after sanding that makes it a little more difficult to paint than most other materials.

 

[Rule3]

If you do not want to spend the money for really good paint that will hold up on aluminum I would recommend a can of Krylon Color Master paint and primer.

It is very good paint and should work for you. Wal Mart sells it not Lowes or Homers.

Lightly sand or steel wool the metal and blow it off, then wipe it with mineral spirits. Spray a few light coats and it should be good to go

 

[1911 guy]

+1 on primer. Zinc chromate is the best, but can be hard to find.

 

[WYOMan]

I'm going to throw in another recommendation for Alumahyde. If the suface is clean prior to application, it stays on. That's what I use for all of my camo jobs. Even did one in solid black, because I didn't want to scrape for re blueing. You can't tell the difference, unless you look close, plus I don't worry about it in bad weather. I used it on a couple rifles with brakes, and even the brakes are still coated.

 

[nw_aggie]

How about the plastidip products? I just did the hood of my polaris ranger, and seems to work good. It seems to rely on multiple coats, but can be peeled off if you don't like it.

 

[Sunray]

Al needs Al paint. BBQ paint is made for Al. The Rust-Oelum primer would be a good idea too.

 

[OpticsPlanet]

+1 on the matte clearcoat.

I typically use a scotchbrite pad to rough the surface, then a primer.

In the long run, it might be worth practicing on a cheap scope before you try it on your more expensive optic. Practice is the best way to learn.

I am reminded of some of my early car model projects.

Mark H.

 

[greyling22]

well I roughed it up some with sandpaper, then hit it with a rustoleum primer for "difficult to adhere to surfaces, then hit it with flat black. Looks good, but it still scratches pretty easy. Oh well, it's still an improvement over having a silver scope on a black rifle in black rings. And I am so very glad I was using a cheap scope instead of a nice one.