prevent door kick-in & secure shotgun

Status
Not open for further replies.
A

ALHunter

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Messages
185
Location
Alabama
Lots and lots of doors being kicked in throughout my neighborhood. Alarms both on & off, so mere fact of alarm turned on is not preventing kicked in door and a quick burglary. Our alarm is always on when out of house. On 90% of time when in house. I have already reinforced deadbolts, strike plates, hinges with longer screws.

Need recommendations for:
1. ideas and/or products to reinforce doors to prevent kick-ins. Anyone used the StrikeMaster or Door Club? All ideas and suggestions welcome.

2. front door is a double set of doors. Left door has the standard 1/2" pins that go into top of frame and bottom of floor, only right side is opened for ingress/egress. Any particular recommendations for such a weak and vulnerable double door (even w/ the longer screws) is appreciated.

3. ideas and/or products (excluding security film) for more security on accessible windows. Would like ideas/products for both preventing opening and preventing/alerting if window is smashed.

4. Rem 870 is primary HD gun. 870 is bedside with trigger lock. Wife serves as back up w/ pistol. Mini GunVault is used for securing her pistol. There are 4 four-year old children in house (yes, quads). 2 of the 4 frequently come downstairs and enter our bedroom in the morning rather than staying in their bedrooms as instructed. Assume normal spankings/time outs/taking away of toys/etc. cannot cure children of this. Concern is that child(ren) will enter bedroom quietly, not waking me or wife, and despite admonishments, touch 870. Strong desire is to continue to have 870 w/in reach of bed, but without the trigger lock. Can't do that based on current age of kids.

Thus, trigger lock needed but would rather find other solution allowing for equal child-proofing, but quicker access than spinning combo on trigger guard lock. Yes, could switch from 870 to handgun and another Gun Vault, but prefer to stick with shotty.

5. A dog is a no-go for now. Maybe in a year or two.

6. Prefer budget-conscious ideas/products, but will spend what I have to in order to get properly squared away.

Apologies for the long post. Many thanks in advance.
 
There is a product called "Door Jamb Armor" that is supposed to be good, but the install is a little rough.
You can find it at most Lowes stores for about $120.
 
Ideas

I have used the door club for years. Works great. It ain't going to fail with out a lot of effort. And noise. :what: The trigger lock is a good idea in theory but kids will be such as they are.. Try a gunrack on the wall over the bed. They can't get to it without standing on your nose and you have to stand up anyway if someone's coming in the house.

Window security.. Painfully prickly plants (might be rough on the kiddies) or ugly bars. :(

Left side of door. Permanently secure it to the frame with screws and use matching trim to cover the screw heads.

Good luck getting some of this past the wife..:)
 
new york bar. google it. By far ond of the best and cheapest thing you can do to secure a door.
A strong dead bolt and longer screws really don't do alot.( i've replaced many a door thats been kicked in. you just take part of the wall when its kicked in))
 
You cannot prevent a door kicking in attempt.

You CAN put measures into place to slow it down long enough to deploy and honor the threat. In my state kicking door down gets you dead. (Leo's do things differently for both thier safety and ours)
 
Hi Tab,


You'd menioned -

bad idea... that would expose the hinges.
Click to expand...


Hinges are available whose Pins are captive...or, one drills and taps, grinds a flat, and installs a Set Screw, or one Welds the top and bottom Pin-to-Knukle, making the Hinge Pins captive...or one used Hinges whose Pins are heavily peened over top and Bottom...all of which are easy enough for replaing ormmodifying exising 4 in square or round Butts, usually used on Entry or Perimiter Doors.


Doors, when strong enough in themselves...and having strong Jambs...such Doors when they swing 'out', are far more difficult to kick 'in'...oweing to the continuous 'stop' on the Jambs.


'French Doors' can be replaced with Insitutional-Commercial Steel Doors and Steel Jambs...and having heavy top-and-botom draw-bolts on the passive Door...installing a small Window or two, and putting plant-on moulding details on them if one likes, to lighten their mood...



Phil
l v
 
Eye Roll symbol here...


Yes...I've seen these things.


I used to be called in to replace 'kicked in' Doors, shattered Wooden Jambs, and so on...


Hence my above mentions...


None of the Doors and new Jambs I installed to replace shattered ones...ever got pried open, pulled off, or, 'kicked in'...or otherwise opened however so, by unauthorized persons.

Intentional Lock Sets are part of what one also takes into account.


Phil
l v
 
Trigger locks are dangerous. A firearm can be discharged with one installed. A cable lock through the action is much more effective. There are also locks which cover the entire action and trigger area so that they cannot be accessed.
 
You cannot prevent a door kicking in attempt.
Click to expand...
You can't prevent an attempt at anything. But you can prevent your door from being kicked in. My front door is steel and when a metal bar is propped at an angle to it you'll have to take a battering ram to the hinges to take it down.
 
One can also install one or two pair of "U" Brackets, inside, Lag Bolted hrough the Sheetrock onto the King Studs on each side of the Jambs, for perimiter Doors which open inward...using a length of 2/4 then, set into the Brackets.

Cheap and easy, easy to use...this will go a long way to prevent a Door being forced in-and-open.
 
Wrought Iron Entry Way Gate:

I got one, cost me $800.00. The below is not it, it is an illustration, not the best looking, but you get the idea. Mine turned out wonderfully, it looks nice.

gate2.jpg


GrovedaleOlivesWroughtIronGate.jpg


Storm Door:

These door a great job, very tough, look nice (you can get all "glass" ones and they are very tough as well) I think you can get an energy credit for these. I think one can be had for a $75 - 100.

energy.jpg


Door Latch:

I put these on http://www.amazon.com/Belwith-Produ...f=pd_bbs_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1241387597&sr=8-7 using 3" screws into a stud...

When I was getting my alarm installed, the guy was talking to me about what he sees these days, mostly there is someone (either singly or in teams) that goes into the back yard, chunks a brick through the window and he / they crawl in that way.

So, I would put some lights in low visibility areas, at the corners of the house and in the back yard near the main door. You might not need to do all that depending on your yard configuration. There are "drive way alarms" that can be used outside in the back yard to advise of someone back there...

Also, regarding the shotgun, I would lose the trigger lock and lock up the ammo. Keep the handgun in the gun vault but put in the Shotgun rounds too. Easier to use the vault than the trigger lock and like the other poster said, it ain't safe.
 
A LARGE barrel bolt, bolted not screwed, through the bottom of the door, that extends into a hole in the floor.

A hinge above your dead bolt that is screwed into the framing, with a smaller barrel bolt to hold the hinge leaf against the door face.

These together with your reinforced hinges and lock hardware make the door itself the weak point.

I did these to my daughters college apartment doors and the landlord installed them on all the other units and paid me back my out of pocket expenses.
 
I have these on our solid wood bedroom door (along with a deadbolt) to secure the room. They are very strong against kicking but could be defeated by prying.

Guardian335746_raw.jpg
 
I'm not a contractor, and of course it could vary by region, but I seem to recall that doors swinging in is required by code. Dunno.

I use an 870 too, and I leave the magazine full, chamber empty, slide locked. My kids don't know about the lock on the trigger guard. I leave mine in the inside of the bedroom closet, but my kids are almost never in the bedroom. I think you might consider pegs or hooks above the inside top edge of your closet, out of sight and out of mind.

I have no idea what your means and situation are, but if I were living in a place with small children where home invasions are on the rise, I would put some serious thought into moving.
 
I use a Mossberg Loc Box, for my shotgun (It fits both Moss 500 and Rem 870) I have it mounted in the top of the closet. At bed time I put the key in it and unlock it and when i get up I put lock it and put the key back in my pocket (its attached to my car keys helps keep me form forgetting it)

I don’t know if they make them any more but I like the way it hold the gun. The slide must be open for the gun to locked in, only way to fire it is remove it from the lock.
 
Fire

Thread Drift for Safety Reasons.

Whatever you do to keep someone from getting "IN" , you have to keep in mind the need to get "OUT" in case of an emergency, such as fire.


Houdini was once asked how he was able to get out of safes. He simply shared, safes were designed to keep someone from getting into them, not out of them.
 
Magloc trigger lock: http://www.smartlock.com/triggerlock-r.htm

I use this on my 870. I mounted the base of the lock to a wall stud, such that the butt of the shotgun rests on the floor, and the trigger lock secures the shotgun to the wall. I've practiced punching in the combination in the dark, and with a little practice, is very easy. It sure beats having to fumble with a combination dial, or remember a key.
 
Something else that needs to be mentioned... your house is only secure as its weakest point. Unless your willing to pay big bucks( 1-2k per window)... your windows are your weakest point.
 
It is not uncommon to see bars over all the windows and doors where I live. Not in my specific neighborhood, but just down the street a few blocks. I don't know what they do about sliding glass doors. I have often thought about how easy it would be to bust the glass on my sliders and come on in. That's why I have an alarm system and motion sensing outside lights all around the house. Still, someone could bust in if they were bound and determined. Then the question is whether I can get to a firearm quick enough.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
  • Locked
Home security systems
2 3
Replies
57
Views
4K
Walt Sherrill
W
A
  • Locked
Front door kicked in. What steps to prevent it from happening again?
Replies
22
Views
3K
david_the_greek
D
C
  • Locked
Cheap Way to Protect Doors? EZ Armor
2
Replies
41
Views
1K
kyletx1911
K
J
  • Locked
Physical Security
Replies
20
Views
928
Sheepdog1968
S
S
  • Locked
Contemplating home security setups
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Ohio Gun Guy
Ohio Gun Guy
Back
Top