Preventively shooting a bear

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This guy killed problem bears for a living. He shot some of them with a regular 12 gauge slug, but they were caged or trapped. I think you will want something that will stop it, so it can not hurt you. He says that when there was no bear hunting, there were more problem bears, so I don't know if general bear hunting will solve your problem. You might as well try, it will probably be fun.:)

He reccomends some bullets, and cabela's website has more articles on bear hunting.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...lets+For+Bears&contentId=mcmurchy_bearbullets

Problem animals such as livestock killers and bee-yard wreckers simply had to be destroyed and as quickly as possible. I also reduced bear populations within northern parks as required. Some of these jobs involved destroying a lot of bears in a short period of time, usually at night when the public was unaware. I used a variety of methods to catch and kill the animals. Most snared or live-trapped bears were shot with a short-barreled 12-gauge slug gun.

Free-roaming bears were shot with scoped rifles. For many years my favorite bear-killer was a Remington 760 pump in .30-06. I usually shot factory loaded 180-grain ammo through this little rifle. Since I frequently got into multiple-animal situations I needed a fast handling rifle and easy magazine reloads. Unfortunately one of the reasons I needed the repeat shots was because the '06 was not putting really big bears down. After the first shot I usually only had rear-end shots on the other bears as they departed as fast as they could run. The 180-grain bullets were smashing pelvises but not penetrating deep enough to get to the heart/lung area. My notes indicated that I averaged just fewer than three shots per bear in such situations.

I found a supply of Winchester 220-grain Silvertip ammo in .30-06 and when I tried them on going-away shots they dumped the critter on the spot. The heavier bullets got through the diaphragm and the bears piled up and died much quicker. This ammo killed a lot of bears over the years until I moved up to the .338 Winchester magnum.

Interestingly, the exact opposite worked as far as bullet selection when I started killing bears with the .338 magnum. I found that the heavy 250 grain bullets were going right through, particularly on side shots and the bears frequently ran off to die or needed a second hit. When I went to the faster 200-grain Power Points or my favorites, the 210 Nosler Partition the bears died much quicker. I believe that the lighter, faster bullets delivered more shock and energy than the heavier constructed 250's. The 200/210 handled the going-away shots perfectly. I decided that the .338 was about as good a black bear killing tool as I could hope for.

This took place a long time ago, usually in locations where hunting was not permitted. Our bear population was extremely high, we had significant bear-related problems and bear hunting was not very popular at the time. Killing bears was the logical way to resolve or prevent problems. We also trapped, immobilized and relocated animals when feasible.

The point I wish to make with the above stories is that we should 6+9 match the bullet to the game whenever possible. When we need penetration we should go to slower, heavier bullets rather than faster ones. The reason for this is that penetration is directly related to the frontal diameter of the bullet. Fast bullets that upset into large mushrooms release their energy very quickly - too quickly in some cases. A bullet that opens slower and to a smaller frontal diameter will penetrate deeper. The difference might be compared to the penetration of a spear and a baseball thrown at the same velocity.

Most black bears killed by hunters weigh significantly less than the hunter would believe. For years we weighed hunter-killed bears on a large portable platform scale. Very few bears exceeded 300 pounds in the spring; as a matter of fact most went between 200 and 250 pounds. Granted, they all looked bigger but the scale told the truth.

Most black bears have a heavier skeleton and body mass than deer so deer killing bullets are not optimum bear killers. Optimum bear bullets should retain at least 70 percent of their initial weight and never allow their cores and jacket to separate. They should not expand too quickly and they must be capable of shattering bones - sometimes very big bones.

Fortunately for hunters the bullet manufacturers have developed a bullet design that is ideal for black bear - the bonded bullet. Bonding the core and jacket together insures weight retention and minimal fragmentation after impact. This results in a deadly combination of shock and penetration - exactly what is needed to kill bear quickly.

I mentioned my preference for the 210-grain Nosler partition in the .338 Winchester. Although this bullet is not bonded it offers the two primary qualities - 65% weight retention and no busting up after hitting something solid. Another successful bullet is the Speer Grand Slam. I have found that the Grand Slam holds together really well although it will occasionally allow the core to slip from the jacket if impact velocities are too high.

In my simplistic opinion there are three types of bullets. First is the basic hunting bullet - proven designs as offered by Hornady, Sierra, Speer, Winchester, Remington and Federal. These bullets are the biggest sellers. They are the most used for commercial ammo and by reloaders. These bullets retain at least 50% of their mass on most shots, although the core and jacket may separate if the impact velocities are too high.

The second type of hunting bullet is the bonded plastic-tipped boat-tail bullet. Bonding means chemically attaching the core and jacket together. Sharp points and boat-tails make for excellent ballistic characteristics. These bullets retain at least 65% and usually around 75%-80% of their initial weight, regardless of impact velocities. Examples of this group are the Swift Scirocco, Nosler Accubond and the Hornady Interbond. Norma also makes bonded bullets that are loaded into several popular cartridges. Although not bonded, the Nosler Partition and Speer Grand Slam usually fit nicely into this category on the basis of retained weight. All of these bullets are superb performers on black bears.


The third group of bullets is the deep penetrators. These bullets do not open up quickly and they do not create huge mushrooms. These bullets retain from 80% to 100% of their original weights, regardless of impact velocity. Examples of this group are the Swift A-Frame, the Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, Barnes X and its derivatives and the Winchester Failsafe. They are not optimum for black bears unless you are likely to shoot a very large animal or the fore-mentioned "Texas Heart Shot".

I mentioned that I dispatched a lot of black bears with a 12-guage shotgun. "A lot" is a nebulous term but in my situation it means in the hundreds. From that shooting I can make a couple of statements. First, 12-gauge shotgun slugs are reliable bear killers. This is not the case with other gauges, particularly the 20-gauge. Second, 12-gauge buckshot loads are not reliable for killing black bears. Buckshot does not penetrate or break bones unless you almost press the muzzle against the bear. I have point-blanked huge bears in the center of the neck and had them get back to their feet. That is not a good thing!

I have also killed a lot of bears over the years with muzzleloaders. I have over 75 muzzleloader bullets that have been recovered from kills, many of them from big black bears. Use the heaviest bullet and charge that your rifle will shoot accurately. I can recommend the Shockwave from T/C and the Barnes Expander as two particularly trusted bear killers. These bullets are available in 250 and 300 grain weights; either will kill any bear that walks the planet. You will only get one shot so you want it to do the job.

Shot placement is everything, particularly when you are dealing with a critter that can kill you. Regardless of what others might suggest, the optimum shot location for putting a black bear down is the scapula (shoulder blade). If you cannot hit the scapula then go for any major portion of the nervous system. The idea is to gain CONTROL of the animal. Immobilizing him will allow a lethal follow-up shot.

Bullets that break the spine cause paralysis back of the impact location. A bear that is paralyzed can be dispatched much easier than one that has run off with a bullet through the lungs. If a bear runs off he has not been hit correctly, simple as that. This is a strong statement but it is a fact. I want the bruin on the ground upon impact - period.

I have tracked my share of wounded bears at night and I would just as soon not do that anymore. Black bears are not difficult to kill if the shot placement is correct. Break them down, gain control and start planning where to put the rug!
 
Another update on preventively shooting a bear

Hey everyone, Chartwell here again, the guy with the 2-year-old and the occasional bear in my back yard.

I never imagined the feedback would reach 3 pages and I'm grateful to everyone who took the time to write. There's a wide range of opinions and a lot of good information here. And also clearly some issues that divide the community as well. It's because I'm wrestling with exactly these issues that I'm asking this community for its opinions.

The first thing that I learned is that there's still a lot more I can do to eliminate bear attractants. I can ask neighbors not to leave their trash bins outdoors (store them in the garage until the night before the morning they get picked up). Some things I never thought of include carrying an airhorn instead of (or in addition to) bear bells and mowing down the blackberry bushes to eliminate a source of food. I will look in to getting a dog, too.

I'll see if this doesn't reduce contact with bears. I'll also raise the issue with a game warden and see what he advises. If I do wind up hunting bears, I'll also get a suitable bear hunting rifle for the task.

Maybe I overreacted in my first post. It seems like a lot of people have lived with kids in close proximity to black bears for a long time. Actual bear attacks are pretty infrequent.

One of the major questions I asked is, is it moral to preventively shoot bears near my home (not primarily for hunting, but in order to reduce an admittedly low threat)? The community is split on this. It seems to depend on how threatening the bears are. A threatening problem bear should be removed either by being removed by authorities or being shot. But there are many gradations and a less threatening bear shouldn't necessarily be disturbed.

Another major question is would I succeed by doing this in keeping the bear population near me "down" (getting rid of one particular problem bear, reducing the number of bears a little, making most of the bears afraid of man again, etc.)? Or is the effort futile. Here again, there is a split opinion, but most people seem to think that shooting one bear a year on Massachusetts bear hunting licenses won't really do the trick.

I'm not in a rush and will go slow on this. My 2-year-old is under pretty good supervision. But I dread the thought of one day one of us confronting a bear that is hungry and has the "drop" on us. That's one of the things about bears that has stirred our collective imaginations since we were in caves. If you confront bear, it can outfight, outrun, and outclimb you...
 
Well... maybe I'm the odd man out, but within the parameters of the law, I'd whack that bear and any others I found. I'm down on yotes and wolves too.

If they're a danger to me or my family, they're best scared or they're dead. I would have absolutely no second thought or concerns over it.

Good luck to you whatever course you choose.
 
99 out of 100 black bears will run away; problem is, they don't wear numbers.

For the past 2 yrs, we have had a problem with a particular black bear, probably in the 180-200 lb range. For a while, taking in the bird feeders at night worked- he wasn't seen in the area.

Then, this spring, he showed up several times in the daylight, and was obviously hanging in our area. I considered having him live-trapped, but bears are territorial, and removing one just opens the territory for another to move in.

One night, about 2200 hrs, wife and I heard a LOUD growl just outside our living room windows. The we heard it at the other end of the house, and so on for about an hour. I took my spotlight and 870, and headed outside to see what was happening. About that time wife reminded me night hunting was illegal...:-(

Two days later, bear was sitting about 20 feet from the house eating dropped bird seed. I opened the front door and yelled at him- he looked at me and answered with a "huff".

SO, I stuffed the 870 with some rubber riot buckshot, and slapped him in the haunch. He stood up, looked at me and wandered off into the woods.

Five minutes later he's back! So, we upped the ante a bit, and whacked him in the butt with a rubber prison slug. That got his attention- swapped ends, lit the 'burner, and hasn't been back since!

My concerns were primarily 2- one, our little dog, which is never loose or alone outside, and the 2nd is having the bear break into the house and trash it. I didn't want to really hurt or kill it, but if he had attempted entry I would have.
 
I would agree with everyone advising keep your trash clean. I grew up in Juneau Alaska, and am going to college here now, and I have to say in my entire life I have yet to be threatened by a bear, and most of my childhood was spent wandering around in the woods, and the woods here = wilderness anywhere else.

Bears are not out to get people. Most attacks occur when a bear is really startled or when you get around a sow with cubs. I really don't recall ever hearing about a bear that was "hunting" people. Granted bears can get far too accustomed to people being around and that can result in them being less cautious, but again in general people don't equal bear food.

I would advise bear proofing where you keep your garbage. If a bear knows that it can get a free meal it will be back - lock it up. Not too long ago a black bear raided our outdoor freezer full of fish. Once the fridge was empty he still came back for 3 or 4 days in a row looking for more, and I had to scare one away a month ago or so, but I don't know if it was the same one. Moral of the story - if they think there's food, they'll keep coming.

I would also suggest you do what Mountie did and pop him with some rubber slugs if you can.
 
Off Topic, but Important!
Please , when you ask about pertinant laws, PLEASE, tell us from where you write! We all labor under USC and ATFE, so if you have questions about YOUR state's carrying or hunting laws, PLEASE try to be specific about your origin. Thank you.
 
SO, I stuffed the 870 with some rubber riot buckshot, and slapped him in the haunch. He stood up, looked at me and wandered off into the woods.

Five minutes later he's back! So, we upped the ante a bit, and whacked him in the butt with a rubber prison slug. That got his attention- swapped ends, lit the 'burner, and hasn't been back since!

My concerns were primarily 2- one, our little dog, which is never loose or alone outside, and the 2nd is having the bear break into the house and trash it. I didn't want to really hurt or kill it, but if he had attempted entry I would have.

Mountie855,

Very nicely done...I have always used rock salt...but the rubber would work better. And a big +1...if it tries to come in my house...its bear meat for supper.
 
I'm not sure a deer slug would do a good job on a black bear,

Yes it absolutely will, though your range is limited with slugs. The Dixie slug referenced above is a whole different kettle of fun, three times as powerful as a normal slug and over twice the size. if you need a harder slug go with a Brennke rottweil. The Dixie slugs replicate the paradox elephant gun loads are way, way more than anyone would need for black bear.

When the bear raids the trash, get everyone inside, and take him out right then and there, if it's not illegal.

Actually, you make sure you secure your trash next time.

I would get everyone up to the second story, make sure there are not any trees close to the window, and hit him with something powerful. I'm not sure if the bear getting to him is likely when he is in the house though, anyone care to comment? And make sure you know where to shoot!

This is really wild overkill. These are just black bear, not ninjas. The bear is not likely to "get" anyone. You just use common sense. Secure trash, remove easy food sources, etc. Don't overreact and start blasting from your second story window when the bear comes to trash you left out.

If you look at the responses in this thread, you will note that most of us from actual big mean tear-your-arms-off bear country are trying to calm the OP. The wild-eyed kill all the bear responses tend to be coming from well outside bear country. I've nearly tripped over black bear on local trails, and had them rear up and eyeball me. They're not to be taken too lightly, but the suggestion of going around and blasting them like targets in some arcade game is immature and irresponsible. It's a misuse of the firearm, to boot. They are great to hunt and if you get the right ones at the right time of year they make surprisingly good eating. But they're not targets for you to cap off out of some paranoia.

If you want to hunt them lawfully, wonderful. If you want to get them away from your house, secure the garbage, nix the birdseed and cut back the berries.
 
I mowed a field on Saturday and noticed a patch of blackberry bushes. On Sunday, I took my 2-year old son to the spot and we picked blackberries for 2 hours. Then I noticed fresh bear scat next to the blackberry bushes and on top of the mowed grass -- the bear had been to the blackberry bushes since I had mowed the area the day before and could be still nearby or even watching us.

Mow the blackberries. As other have said, get rid of all the food sources, but I didn't see this specific advice.

I could carry my self defense sidearm (Glock .40 caliber) -- an option for me personally but not or my wife and child.

I'd get a more potent gun; a double action revolver would be my choice. And get one for your wife one too. A .357 Mag at least with 4" barrel, or .41 Mag, .45 Colt +P, or 44 Mag. We don't have bears in Indiana, but I have a 4" Ruger Redhawk in .45 Colt I can load with any ammo Buffalo Bore offers, just 'cuz i wanted one. I would also get in the habit of wearing it at all times in an OWB (outside-the-waistband) belt holster.

If people ask questions, walk them out to the berry patch/tree marks and show them the bear signs.

I would also want to have a 12GA slug gun at the ready. If the bear becomes more of a nuisance, you garage door won't be any deterrant to get at the trash.

Put door locks (we have a flip style latch) up high, about 6-1/2' high on all your doors so the little people can't get outside without you knowing.

After getting rid of the food, and reporting the bear(s), the advice to get a good dog is the best thing going.
 
Ok,

As far as I know there is no legal way to "preventively " kill a bear. You can't simply shoot a bear because he is near your home. So the simple no BS answer to your question is NO it is not morale to shoot a bear just because you've seen him near your house.

IT is illegal to do so and may well end you up in jail. That is commonly referred to as poaching. It is exactly the same thing if you shoot a deer because he was in your back yard. It is poaching PERIOD end of story.

Why is it that bear is different from any other wildlife species? Don't tell me it's the danger factor. More people are killed by moose every year than bear. If a moose was in your yard do you think that you'd have the right to kill it prventively? Nope you'd go to jail for that too.

If the bear is causing property damage then you can call the division of wildlife and they will either come and take care of it probably live trap it and relocate it. Which is the most likely.

Or they will issue you, a guy who is obviously completely clueless about wild wildlife and hunting a depredation tag so that you can blast said bear (are you even sure you can tell if it is the same one?) in a populated area with a high power rifle. No potential down side there!:uhoh:

I'd say option one is the most sensible, wouldn't you?

Preventive killing of wildlife has not is not and never will be legal.
 
According to what I've read, if a black bear does attack a person, it's commonly an attack for food--and thus will likely be pressed home. But, as Mountie855 commented, while it might be unlikely, you never know which bear is hungry.

That's separate from the "sow with cubs" thing.

So, seems to me that reducing attractants around the vicinity of one's house would be a Good Thing. Keeping an eye out for bear sign is a necessity, obviously. Bears, as well. :)

Some comments about handgun performance, with bears in mind--and the use by the BossLady as well as Himself:

I used to shoot IPSC. My .45ACP load was 5.8 grains of 231 with a 200-grain lead SWC. I got lazy, one day, and used the same powder charge for my .44 Mag with 250-grain lead SWCs. Shot it through my 7.5" Redhawk at my Pepper Popper. Definitely a lot more impact, given 50 grains more weight and 2.5 inches more barrel. But, negligible recoil. Easy to shoot double-action, rapid fire.

If it were loaded to around 1,000 ft/sec, it would still be a mild load--but much more power than any .45ACP or .40 S&W. And, still no recoil problem. Only the issue of the size of a person's hands.

Just something to think about...
 
Get a dog or three. Black bears will shy away from barking dogs. It is debatable whether this is instinctual or learned behavior.

A country boy needs a dog.
 
Myles: "Get a dog or three. Black bears will shy away from barking dogs. It is debatable whether this is instinctual or learned behavior."

Well, that may be mostly true. But one night about 12 years ago, when I was teenager, my best friend's 100-lb. husky/lab mix was yelping in pain from deep in their backyard (just down the street from my house at the time). The dog's spine was literally snapped in half and he was obviously paralyzed and dying. He was put down that night.

Next day my friend and I went down into his backyard to investigate. There were deep claw marks all over the ground, and weird tracks. We had no idea, so the Oregon Fish & Game came out. They identified the tracks as those from a 250-lb. black bear.

This happened on the same street where my parents currently live. The one with blackberry bushes and black bear scat in the backyard.
 
Standard THR suggestion: "you're going to need a bigger gun for that"

Is the most important question you have is would it be moral to hunt a bear you wont eat?
Answer: Yes.

Probably your easiest way of getting rid of the bear would be have someone else do it. Talk to someone who has a bear tag already, or a guide who might pay if they have someone paying them to hunt a bear. There are plenty of people who want to hunt a bear for sport already and if you could point them toward your's it would be a match made in heaven.
 
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