Primer trouble or is it me

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I don't clean primer pockets on any handgun brass. Just tumble and into the press they go.
 
If stored correctly primers have an indefinite shelf life !!!

I`m now using some cci 500 dated `88 , 100% so far !!

I also clean primer pockets , I tried it with out it once & could`nt "feel" the bottom for all the crunchin !!

Also WW cases have tite pockets & I sometimes have trouble feelin bottom.
 
I don't clean range brass 9mm primer pockets.

When I started 9mm reloading, I worried about how much the primer was below the case head. Bad call.

Seat the primer all the way to the bottom of the pocket, firmly.

With every case (except "WC" cases) it is easy to visbly verify "below the case head". You can easily "see" the primer pocket's bevel above the primer I don't load "WC" cases because the primer pocket isn't bevelled unless one of the 'previous' dozen reloaders bevelled it. "Win" is my preferred range brass.
 
Sauer Grapes,
I have NEVER cleaned a primer pocket on handgun brass and I don't think you will need to either. I prime all my handgun brass on a Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press and have experienced no problems. I do clean primer pockets on rifle brass and prime all my rifle brass by hand but not handgun brass. Just be a little more attentive on how deep you seat the primers and I'm sure you will be fine, really...
 
Sounds like you need to clean the pockets. I understand the progressive press part but sometimes there are just some things you need to do to make it work. When there is residue left your primers may not be seating solidly enough and there is a little give when they are struck by the firing pin.

Before I got a pocket cleaning tool, I used a small flathead screw driver that fit in the pockets just right and I would twist it around in the pocket and could feel the residue fall out on my hand and then of course the pockets looked clean.

I see some of the other guys say they don't clean theirs but you just may need to do it. It's part of the tinkering around process of reloading.
 
When I first started reloading I cleaned the primer pockets because that's what the reloading manual said to do.

After lurking & reading here for several months I heard from a number of the respected voices that they don't clean 'em.

I stopped doing that a long time ago & never noticed any difference.
 
Thanks guys,
I'm sure all get it squared away. From all the comments, I think I'll get it on the next batch.
Next is .45acp! I bought my first 1911.....:D Which brings up another question for another thread ...lol.
 
I'm new to reloading too, just had a similar issue with my CCI's. First box of 100 primers went smoothly developing my 9mm load. Soon as I broke into the second box, 4 of 6 primers took multiple strikes to fire (3 rounds took 2 hits, last took 4).

This was in my Sig P250 with 2000 factory rounds through it, no FTF what-so-ever, even with cheap ammo. I also verified each failed primer strike, none appeared to be "light" strikes. Based on the only change being the new box of primers, should I suspect a bad batch? Or just keep trying the rest of the rounds I loaded?
 
Shark...

As I posted earlier, I've loaded 1000s of rounds this year alone & never had a FTF.
I just haven't seen any issues with primers.
(Not saying they can't happen, but...)

Make sure they're properly seated.

Stay safe!
 
Jumping in here a little late, but I can add, get a small peice of window glass, or something else that is pefectly FLAT, set the primered case primer down on the glass, if the case rocks you don't have the primer seated fully.

I didn't read all the above post but here is a question, and any one is free to feild this one, and let me add I don't reload for auto pistol, only revolver.


Since the 9MM Luger-Para head spaces on the case mouth, couldn't the case length be to short and the firing pin not hitting because the primer is to far away?
 
Its a possible but usually the round will go off because of physics, a body at rest tends to stay at rest. The sudden impact of the firing pin "usually" will ignite the primer.

Case in point is all the different calibers the auto pistols chambered for spanish 9mm Largo are supposed to work in. I believe I phrased that right.
 
Realize we are talking Automatics here, but.

Similar problem with a S&W revolver (625). Went to Federal primers, seemed to help for a while? Later very high incident of failure to fire. Found the Strain Screw backed out over 1 turn, tightened it up, problem solved. Was due to light primer strikes.
 
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Sauer Grapes: I also tumble my brass prior to reloading and I've noticed that tumbling in most cases does not clean out the primer pockets. I found the easiest way is to clean primer pockets is to toss them into the sink with some dish washing detergent and water allowing them to soak for an hour or so with a little stir now and then, then rinse and dry them. Anoher even faster way is toss the cases into a cheesecloth bag and run them through the dish washer...just don't let your better half catch you.
 
Anoher even faster way is toss the cases into a cheesecloth bag and run them through the dish washer...just don't let your better half catch you.
Click to expand...

You like to contaminate your dishwasher with lead residue from spent priming compound, then wash dishes that you eat off of? Not a real good idea, but then its your bod.

Just don't recommend it to other folks.
 
Hmmmm, I have to suspect not seating the primers right since factory rounds work well. I have never had any problems with primers of any brand. I have used mostly CCI primers. I don't recall any duds. There has been some debate about how deep to seat primers. I always put them to the bottom of the pocket and with a bit of force. If your hammer strike has to seat the primer before it can ignite, you have lost some of the punch of the strike.

I don't know that it is all that important to clean primer pockets. I have loaded many rounds without cleaning primer pockets. I have also cleaned primer pockets many times. It works both ways

I have at times seen failures to fire because of the firing pin becoming very dirty and sticky. Make sure you always pay good attention to the firing pin when you clean your guns. This is especially important if you have some powder that is not burning clean.
 
James2: +1

If the primer is set too shallow, the first and subsequent hits will 'seat it' and then it will fire-probably.

My pistol has a lightened hammer spring. I reload and shoot 9mm range brass about 200+/week. I've never cleaned a pocket and I've had '1' Federal spp fail to fire. I decapped it, and it was a strange light brownish color--something wrong with the mixture. When I first lightened the hammer spring I had about 1-2% FTFire with Win spp's.

I recently put in an 'extended' firing pin (approx..+.02"), so I can reliably shoot CCI or other harder primers.
 
If seating the primer correctly doesn't fix the problem, then make sure that the cases have not been trimmed too short. If you are below min case length, the firing pin will expend it's energy moving the cartridge forward in the chamber.

Don't ask how I know this.
 
would dirty primer pocket cause my problem?
Click to expand...
No. After you tumble, the decapping pin should make sure the flash hole is open. 9mm headspaces on the case mouth. Brass should be at or near its maximum trim length. If the brass is to short, the firing pin pushs the round to far into the chamber. Then you have a misfire. See if the brass from the misfires measure shorter then the rest.
 
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If the brass is to short, the firing pin pushs the round to far into the chamber. Then you have a misfire.
Click to expand...

Not always, see below. Also the extractor will usually hold a case enough to allow the firing pin to strike the primer hard enough to ignite the primer. Not necessarly good for the firearm but it does work.




Its a possible but usually the round will go off because of physics, a body at rest tends to stay at rest. The sudden impact of the firing pin "usually" will ignite the primer.

Case in point is all the different calibers the auto pistols chambered for spanish 9mm Largo are supposed to work in. I believe I phrased that right.
Click to expand...

Another case in point is many smaller cartridges fired in larger chambers giving the grossly expanded cases shown on a few threads here lately.
 
I shoot 2 different 9mms. It does it with both guns. My taurus does seem to hit with less force than my M&P, but like I said, it happens with both guns. Factory ammo, 100%.
Click to expand...
An "inertia firing pin" will travel till it hits the primer in most 1911 types. The extractor thing is an old argument, and will never be decided IMO.
i've hit them 3 and 4 times till their caved in and, nothing.
Click to expand...
Has to be bad primer, or something is contaminating the primers.
 
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All the brass I've used so far is factory once fired brass that I saved from shooting. I have picked up some brass at the club, but it was all factory ammo. I have it seperate from the ammo I shot until I can go through it and make sure it's all good.

I'm going to check some brass for length and adjust for a little less taper on the case. Maybe it's a combination of things.

I appreciate all the suggestions so far. This next batch may be "the perfect cartridge"....:rolleyes:
 
I had a batch of 1000 9mm rounds I pressed out on my progressive RCBS... I changed out the primer seat pin from large primer to small and did not adjust the set screw that controls the primer seating depth, there were several that were sticking out slightly, well I say several I mean hundreds..LOL and they all shot fine, I used 3 different XD's

Since then I always check primer seating depth after I change from large or small primer pins

Just my .2 cents
 
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