pro 1000 verdict

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greyling22

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I reload 357 and 44 mag on a 3 hole turret press. I've got a single stage and 4 hole for other calibers. I was given most of a pro 1000 2 weeks ago, in pieces, no directions. I assembled it and discovered that I have a 44 mag shellholder large priming system, and large case feeder, but no tubing or collator for the feeder. I have a small case feeder with tubing, but no 357 shellplate or small primer feeding system. I think it will cost me around 50 bucks to have a fully functioning pro1000 in 357 and 44 mag.

the question is, is the pro1000 a decent enough press to mess with, worth a small investment, or is it just one big bag of headaches. Options are:
A) spend the money, it's an upgrade from the turret press, or
B) spend the 50 on groceries, stay on the turret press, pro1000 is too big a hassle.

only pro1000 owners need reply.

{all you dillon and LNL fans I know your presses are awesome, and some day I will get one, but right now, and in the near future it's not going to happen, so "get a dillon" is not the answer to this question}
 
The only time i had problems with the pro 1000 was when i would let the primer chute run too low, which will cause priming and indexing problems all that is required to fix that is to refill the primer tray! It is so fast that when you first start out with it, you will forget to keep an eye on the primer level in the tray and chute... It is a good press and way faster than a turret press. It is worth the $50, but i bet if you ask around on the various forums you could get some of the parts cheaper.
 
The priming system is the weak link to the Pro 1000, but if you keep it clean and full and the indexing set correctly it can work well. I say it would be worth it. You could always sell it if you don't like it and get your money back.
 
I have one and I am still breaking it in. Powder measure is my problem, but it seems to be getting better with trial runs. I have tried a few tricks listed in my post if you search for pro 1000 and they are seeming to help. The output should be signifigant compared to a turret press.

Note: most of my problems are due to stacking disks you would not have to do that so you shouldn't have as much of a powder problem.
 
I bought one because it was cheaper than the Dillon's. Sold it for a small loss after being mightily frustrated and have been happily drinking the blue kool-aid since.

I could not get mine to run. I hated it.
 
If you're at least somewhat mechanically inclined spend the $50 you'll like it.

The only reason I don't use mine is that it's only a 3 holer.
I wish it had a fourth hole.

(I'll bet my great grandparents said the same thing - they had 15 kids) ;)
 
I had 3 of them, and even with mixing parts I could not get 1 to run right. Sold all 3. You'll hear people say you can tinker with them and get them to run right, but when I sit down to reload at 10PM and have a match the next day, the last thing I want to do is tinker.

To be fair, the Pro-1000 was Lee's first attempt at a progressive. It has some good features, but it is simply "not ready for prime time." Get one of their more recent designs if you want a Lee press.

If you like lifting the hood on your car and adjusting the carb 3 times on your way to work each day, then you'll get along fine with the Pro-1000. :rolleyes:
 
I have used a Pro 1000 a lot. I agree with the consensus in the foregoing posts--i.e., it can work, if you like to tinker; keep the primer chute clean, etc., etc.

If you hae one--and one only--caliber (and that includes 38/357, and .44S/.44M) that you want to load for, so there is no primer feed changeouts, then I think it could work. Just set it up for, say, 357 / 158 bullets of one type and learn the drill. Keep it clean (including the dies), and it will work. When I did that, back in my younger days, I could load 500-600 rounds of .45ACP / 200LSWCs an hour if I wanted.

Another parts tip: be sure to get spare indexing parts; you probably need a new (nylon) nut / now--check out the parts schematic; you will see what I mean.

Now that I'm older, I do most of my loading on a turret--an original, converted to 4-die. The 1000 is gone, set up only for demonstrations at kids day at the club.

Jim H.
 
I had the same dilemma a few years ago. I ended up spending $100 on everything needed to load fast on it. Then realized I was $150 into a used press I could buy for $120 on sale. And then I bought a Hornady LNL so I could reload. :D

It sits as a back up for .38sp now.

Justin
 
It sounds like you have enough parts to make some 44 mag by manually feeding cases. Try that for an initial evaluation. Your investment can be limited by getting more parts just for one caliber. The large case feeder and collator would get you to full production for 44 mag.
 
You'll hear people say you can tinker with them and get them to run right, but when I sit down to reload at 10PM and have a match the next day, the last thing I want to do is tinker.

Ditto. I quickly learned the cheapest is seldom the least expensive.
 
You know, after lurking for many years here, I decided to post this year because whenever Pro 1000 was mentioned, it was an automatic bash session with no real constructive or positive information offered to the OP who often was in a situation where higher priced progressive was not an option and was trying to make the best of the situation. I came to THR from other forums in the hopes of fair treatment of all brands, cheap to expensive. I intentionally did not post to see where the discussion was going and looks like it is starting to go south, even against OP's disclaimer. If this is the SOP for THR, then no one who owns Pro 1000 will ever post their problems or questions to be helped, so they TOO can enjoy reloading and shooting (When I started reloading, I didn't make enough money to support match shooting with factory ammo - I had to reload but didn't have $500-$1000 laying around for "other" brand press setup). Fact is, many people buy the Pro 1000 knowing the downsides for different reasons. So in the spirit of THR, can we stick to helping the OP? Thank you.

OP stated:
only pro1000 owners need reply ... all you dillon and LNL fans I know your presses are awesome, and some day I will get one, but right now, and in the near future it's not going to happen, so "get a dillon" is not the answer to this question


I reload 357 and 44 mag on a 3 hole turret press. I've got a single stage and 4 hole for other calibers.
greyling22, since you already own a single stage, 3 hole turret and another 4 hole press, I am thinking you are familiar with the reloading process. With the center hex rod lightly lubed with oil, is it indexing properly? You adjust the movement of the shell plate with a Phillips screw located below the shell plate carrier left of the ram. Move the ram up and down and turn the screw clock-wise to bring the shell plate into station. If it maintains the shell plate timing (auto index), then next step is adding up the parts you need to figure out whether it is cost-effective for you to keep dumping money into the Pro 1000.

I assembled it and discovered that I have a 44 mag shellholder large priming system, and large case feeder, but no tubing or collator for the feeder. I have a small case feeder with tubing, but no 357 shellplate or small primer feeding system. I think it will cost me around 50 bucks to have a fully functioning pro1000 in 357 and 44 mag.
Same tubing is used for both large/small case feeder. This is the cost break down for the part you would need:

Collator - $12 at MidwayUSA
Shell plate - $14.49 (#1 shell plate for 357 Mag and #11 shell plate for 44 Mag)
Primer attachment - $11 kit comes with both large/small slide tubes, pins and one primer tray.

Do you have the large case slider and the Z-bar? You would need these parts for case feeding.
Extra parts - $1.69 Nylon hex ratchet

So your initial cost would be $52 ($12+2x$14.49+$11) to start.


The question is, is the pro1000 a decent enough press to mess with, worth a small investment, or is it just one big bag of headaches. Options are:
A) spend the money, it's an upgrade from the turret press, or
B) spend the 50 on groceries, stay on the turret press, pro1000 is too big a hassle.
The progressive press simply does the same thing as single stage/turret press but faster. I would recommend you assess your reloading needs based on how many rounds you need on a regular basis. BTW, Pro 1000 is capable of loading around 450-650 rounds per hour (650-900 using primed cases).

Since you already have a turret press, if you only shoot a few hundred rounds a month, you may not benefit from the Pro 1000. If you shoot more than 1000 rounds a month, I would say Pro 1000 is recommended.


As to Pro 1000 needing "tinkering" and things breaking, this is the extent of my tinkering for each reloading session:
- Wipe off press and lightly lube all metal contact surfaces (need to be done regardless of press brand/model)
- Check shell plate timing (move ram up and down - takes 2 seconds) and adjust if necessary (takes 5-10 seconds)
- Check case feeder/slider function (takes a few cycles of the ram)
- Check primer attachment tube for debri (clean as necessary)
- Check powder/primer level (need to be done regardless of press brand/model)
- Fill components (cases, powder, primers - need to be done regardless of press brand/model)
- If center hex rod needs additional lube during session (auto index is not working smoothly), lightly lube with oil and check timing (10 seconds)
- As to parts breaking, it is $1.69 nylon hex ratchet gear that is often not lubed (mine lasts about 50K+ rounds if you keep hex rod lubed which it rides on)

I have helped many Pro 1000 users who experienced problems and set up new reloaders on Pro 1000 (I usually setup both single stage and Pro 1000). The most common problem experienced by the users is that they don't familiarize themselves with the Pro 1000 operations and when a problem come up, instead of stopping and identifying the source of the problem, they force the press to cycle. Forcing or cussing the press won't fix any problem, but checking, cleaning, lubing and adjusting will.

I will admit that although the large primer feed attachment works for me 100%, the small primer feed attachment only works around 95% of the times due to primer feed attachment being gravity based and the small primers are not heavy enough to be pushed into station #2 to primer a case properly. When press priming small primer cases, I keep an eye to make sure the primer "drops down" into station to prime the next case. If it doesn't happen, I keep a large paper clip/precision screwdriver handy to help push the primer into place. This is important because if you charge the case without the primer, powder will pour from the bottom of the case all over the primer feed attachment/primer rod/shell plate area and cause the frustrating situation many posted about (when this happens, you have to disassemble the shell plate carrier/primer attachment to clean the powder and reassemble).

If you want to try the Pro 1000, buy from MidwayUSA and for whatever reason you don't like it, return the parts or sell the press (I for one is always looking for another Pro 1000 setup for new reloaders).

For my match/practice loads (currently 40S&W and soon 45ACP), I hand prime cases so I don't experience the small primer feed issue. I load 1000-2000+ rounds per reloading session "at my leisure" so IF I have any issues, I properly troubleshoot and resume my reloading.

BTW, you shouldn't reload when you are rushed or distracted, regardless of press brand/model. PERIOD. If you feel pressured, you'll overlook things and make careless mistakes. If rounds are not loaded properly when you are distracted, it's not the press to blame but the user.

Here's a thread that will help you with your Pro 1000:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=507454&highlight=Pro+1000

This 2 part video will show 38 Spl rounds being loaded on Pro 1000 (not my video) - process used will be similar to 357/44 loading:
http://www.youtube.com/user/sfliberal#p/u/11/rj7JwO28Wzo

This 9 part video will show full disassembly/cleaning/reassembly/adjusting of Pro 1000 (not my video):
http://www.youtube.com/user/sfliberal#p/u/22/RzaPXj4g8D0

Keep us posted as to how things go.
 
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bds said:
Same tubing is used for both large/small case feeder. This is the cost break down for the part you would need:

Collator - $12 at MidwayUSA
Shell plate - $14.49 (#1 shell plate for 357 Mag and #11 shell plate for 44 Mag)
Primer attachment - $11 kit comes with both large/small slide tubes, pins and one primer tray.

Do you have the large case slider and the Z-bar? You would need these parts for case feeding.
Extra parts - $1.69 Nylon hex ratchet

So your initial cost would be $52 ($12+2x$14.49+$11) to start.

The large case feeder has a different holder for the tubes (base). The opening for the case to drop is larger. Even if the tubes were redundant, it would probably be better to just get the kit for large case feeder.

Note that the case feeder parts are sized for either 9mm in small or .45 ACP in large, with everything in between compromised and perhaps prone to misfeeds.
 
I have ... large case feeder, but no tubing or collator for the feeder. I have a small case feeder with tubing
RealGun, I took it that OP had both large/small case feeder bases and one set of tubes. That's why I asked if he had the large case slider (needed for both 357/44 Mag) and the Z-bar.
 
thank you bds, and the rest of you guys. very helpful posts. I have several lee presses and haven't really had any problems with them. I started with a 3 hole turret, and inherited several others from family upgrading. I'm very familiar with reloading and adjusting index rods and setting dies. I stripped the whole press down, cleaned it and put the thing back together so I understand how it works, and a lot of it is very clever. typical lee could-be-better-but-a-marvel-of-low-cost-engineering-anyway design.

I do have the large case slider and z-bar. large priming system too.

does anyway have a #1 shellplate, or the rifle case feeding system and a 223 or 30 carbine shellplate they want to get rid of?

I'm also interested in more opinions on whether the primer feed system can be made to work or not.
 
I think the Pro 1000 primer feed attachment was made mainly for the large primer (as it works 100% for me) and the small primer feed was an after-thought. If the primers hang in the tray and don't fill the feed tube, it does require you to tap on the tray to fill it (filing a "V" notch where primers enter the feed tube does help with filling the feed tube).

However, the length/angle of the primer feed tube/chute is just not enough to generate the weight needed to push the small primers sufficiently into station #2 every single time. If there is any debri/obstruction in the feed tube, the small primers won't freely slide down into station. I thought about adding an extension to make the small primer feed tube longer/higher or fabricate one to generate more weight to push down on the primers to feed more consistently - if I have success, I will post back.

If your primer feed tube is worn at the primer push rod area or does not have a smooth sliding surface, I would recommend the new kit (you need the small feed tube for 357 anyways and both large/small feed tube comes in the kit).

To make the feed tube more slick and help the primers slide better, some will lube with graphite or wax/polish the slide surface. Key is to keep the feed tube clean, dry and free from debri. Most will simply use a large paper clip/small screwdriver to help push down the primers or hand prime the cases separately.
 
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I bought a lee pro 1000 last month. I had previously found the videos bds mentioned and watched them, and took apart the press so I could understand how it works. Although I have no experience with progressive presses and have been loading on a single stage for only about a year, I was readily able to set it up and so far have loaded about 500 9mm and a couple of hundred .357. Like anything else it requires a "getting to know it" period. I took my time with it.Learned to "feel" the primer seat, the primer feed being the weakest link. You have to watch the filler tube, sometimes primers bridge across the top and you have to give it a little flick. The primer tube,assembly has to be kept clean. I noticed that often a couple of specks of powder leaks or jumps from the case. I have a can of air and just give a quick spray around the primer station every 20-30 rounds. In all it is an ingenious litle machine for the money.
 
I don't have any personal experience but have a friend that has been loading on a P1000 for years and loves the press.

There are alot of people that have been using them for years without trouble. People keep saying "if you like to tinker" well that is simply not the case! All you have to do is make sure the primer trough is clean before each session and keep an eye on the primer trough, and make sure it always has 15 or more primers in it. Just refill the tray two or three rounds after it is empty. I would buy another pro 1000 but i wouldn't have a sdb!
 
There are alot of people that have been using them for years without trouble. People keep saying "if you like to tinker" well that is simply not the case! All you have to do is make sure the primer trough is clean before each session and keep an eye on the primer trough, and make sure it always has 15 or more primers in it. Just refill the tray two or three rounds after it is empty. I would buy another pro 1000 but i wouldn't have a sdb!

The impression I get from my friend is he doesn't even have to tinker with his much and I know he loads a lot of three different calibers, 9mm, 38 spcl and 45 auto. I load on a classic turret press. I'll have to go over and give his P1K a try.
 
I wouldn't use the Pro 1000 for match ammo IMO. The only "Tinkering" I have had to do is with the powder measure and the conclusion I have come to is it just needs broken in some more. I have never had any further problems with the press. On a side note I hand prime my cases before they go on the press. My setup is Powder in station 1 then bullet seating and FCD on the last step.
 
probably a single stage. that's the step that requires the most force. or at least if I was committed to running 4 dies and had to pull one off the progressive that's the one I would pick. probably eliminates the iffy priming system too.
 
I resize/deprime range brass on the single stage as it requires less effort to full-length size the once fired factory FMJ/JHP cases.

Since I use Lone Wolf barrels for 9mm/40S&W with tight chambers, I find that I can easily resize/deprime cases fired from LW barrels on the Pro 1000 (I remove the two other dies from the turret and leave just the deprime/sizing die). Using the case feeder/collator, this speeds up the process tremendously.
 
I load right now about a dozen different pistol calibers on my Pro-1000 and a couple rifle ones, too:

32 auto/long
9mm/380
40 s&w/10mm
44 spl/mag
38spl/357 mag
45 auto/gap/Colt
223 Rem
30 Carbine

I recognized that most of the problems with the Pro-1000 go back to retiming after a caliber conversion. So I wound up stocking up on complete shellplates set up for the specific caliber I am loading. This has the dual benefit of making caliber changeovers take a lot less time (not that it takes a long time without this) and I can keep the shellplate timing pretty much spot on. I picked up the correct shell feeder/case sliders to go with the shellplate. All I have to do is switch out the 'Z'-bar for bent or straight as needed and swap the turret with the dies, then load the correct disk into the Auto-Disk powder measure. Since I use mostly Titegroup for all the pistol calibers, I don't even need to clear the powder hopper.

Most problems I see are related to improper timing of the shellplate, letting the primers get too low in the feed chute, or not cleaning/lubing the press.

I've said it over and over- lawn mowers- some guys NEED a John Deere. They are a commercial lawn care operation, or they have a big yard. Some guys WANT a John Deere. No reason why they can't have one. The Deere is a commercial grade machine. Me, I get by on the Sears mowers. Not as nice, maybe. But they work for me and I don't mind fixing them if they need it.

The Pro-1000 is the Sears mower. It's made for a price point, and it works, but if you want to shoot 10,000 rounds a month, you might be better served with an XL650.
I've gotten the kinks worked out on my Pro-1000 and it works fine. As far as "match grade" ammo, I've yet to see my ammo be better or worse than ammo loaded on a Dillon or Hornady.

Anyway, as far as 44 magnum goes, I found that the 44 mag/spl and 45 Colt rounds don't like to feed through the feeders. I manually insert cases into the shellplate when I load those calibers, and since I don't need more than a few hundred of them at a time it's no big deal to run for an hour and knock them out.
 
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