pro 1000 verdict

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As to loading match grade ammo on the Pro 1000 - already had this discussion many times with other match shooters.

What defines match grade ammo? Consistency.

1. Bullet - We weigh our match bullets to cluster/group same weight ranges. I use Montana Gold FMJ and weight variance bullet to bullet is often less than 1 gr (which is my match standard). If your bullets vary more than 1 gr, just group the same weight bullets together.
2. Case - I reserve once-fired and best condition brass for match shooting. If I have any concerns, they will become my practice/range/plinking brass. I always full-length size the cases and spot check the case length if there's any concern.
3. Powder - I consider less than 0.1 gr variance good enough for pistol match shooting. My Pro Auto Disk throws W231/HP38 very consistently, no more than 0.1 gr variation charge to charge.
4. Primer - All of my match grade ammo gets hand primed for consistent ignition. I do not experience failure to go bang on hand primed cases. BTW, all of match shooters I know hand prime their cases.
5. OAL of seated bullet/round.

So, when we discussed reloading match grade ammo on various progressive presses and verified our findings (steps #1 - #5), it came down to #3 consistent powder charge and #5 OAL as steps #1, #2 and #4 were not depended on the progressive press used. We made trips to each other's houses to check the bullet weight, powder charge, and OAL using several different scales and calipers. Most of us used Montana Gold FMJ, but those using plated bullets found that bullet to bullet weight varied, sometimes by 3-4 grains and not all match shooters clustered/grouped their bullets by weight (who's got that much time?).

When we checked each progressive press on a 1000 round run, many were surprised to find some "non-Lee" powder throws "drifted" over time. Some confessed that they have to check their charges every 100 rounds, some every 30-40 to make sure the charges didn't drift. I told them I didn't have this problem. As long as I am using the correct disk number, I only have to weigh the first few throws to verify that powder sufficiently settled in the hopper. We weighed the powder charges from my Pro Auto Disk several times at the start of a 1000 round run, during and at the end - all the charges were consistent.

As to consistent OAL, if you keep your bullet seat/taper crimp die cleaned regularly, you shouldn't have this problem. Essentially, nobody had issues with OAL. Some pointed out the play between the Pro 1000 turret and the top of the press may have an issue with consistent OAL. After taking some measurements, we determined that as long as the ram lever was brought all the way down on each down stroke, the play was not an issue as final bullet seating was determined by the upward most movement of the shell plate carrier against the die.

After we all loaded and checked our 1000 rounds of match ammo, we did some comparison range tests. The match ammo loaded on my Pro 1000 not only matched the accuracy of other loads, but many other match shooters got tighter shot groups using my match ammo. Believe me, we had some "can't believe this" discussion afterwards. Our primary consensus was that step #3 was the most critical aspect of consistency as Pro Auto Disk's volumetric powder charging "could not" drift over time. Many stated that they normally do not weigh their match bullets (who's got that much time?) and planned on switching to Montana Gold if their random weight checks continue to show weight variations.

As long as you are using quality components (same weight bullets, good cases and powder that meters well) and hand prime your cases, there is no reason why Pro 1000 cannot produce match grade ammo.
 
well it sounds like it's worth a little investment to get this thing working. And the good news is that my uncle found the collator and feeding tubes for the large pistol last night, so I can get up and running, at least for test purposes for the cost of some postage.

Thanks to all for the insight, the links and the suggestions.
 
Well, I drug my feet long enough getting all the parts I needed for this thing, but I started loading for it this weekend. I had some issues setting all the dies because like an idiot I A) filled the primer chute before I started setting them and B) didn't think to remove the auto index bar until I was done setting them. oh well.

I had some issues getting the primers to set and loaded a couple of squibs (while trying to get the dies set and didn't realize it) but after I had the dies set and loaded about 50 or so I hit that "lee rhythm" and it all seems to be working fine. I'm still not getting my 357's to fall into the chute when they're ejected but that's not a big deal, and I wish it was a 4 hole press, but the ammo is great, the primer feed is currently doing it's job and I'm pleased. Thanks to all for encouraging me to give it a try.
 
Congrats! I love happy endings. :D

Have you tried bending the ejector pin to help your cases out of the shell plate?
I wish it was a 4 hole press
I deprime/resize and hand prime separately for some of my loads and you can then indeed use it as a "pseudo" 4 hole press. :D
 
well, they come off the plate just fine, they just....well, look at the picture. It's not the end of the world, I just pluck it off and drop it into the ammo box. I can't see how bending the pin would really help, but if you think it would I've got pliers.

PS: pardon the rust, it sat for a while before it came into my possession.
 

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This is what evan price posted on the Pro 1K thread:

Problem: Finished rounds do not eject properly from the shellplate

Solution: Bend the tip of the ejector wire outwards and then inwards to make a sort of "hook" in the wire. The bottom of the hook should face out. This will start the rounds ejecting sooner and not let them get bound up in the shellplate. Very useful for larger diameter shells.
 
the hook shape to the ejector wire, and / or just tweaking its location a bit should do the job. And, when you clean up the press to remove the rust (try a rub down with CLIP or your gun oil on the steel posts), then clean the chute well and rub it down with a good hard wax.

Then, not only will the wire pop them into the chute, but the operation vibration will slide them down into the collection box.

The main thing to watch now is the cleanliness of the primer system, particularly at the insertion anvil.

Jim H.
 
so in this attached picture of the top view of the shell plate I drew, with the green line representing the original wire, should I bend the wire to resemble the red line?
 

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@ Greyling:

No.

You have to remember that the path of the shell on the shellplate is an arc, not a line. You will wind up getting the end of the wire jammed in the shell. You need to begin pushing the shell out of the carrier before the shell is tangent to the radius of the carrier in relation to the ejector wire. If you push too late the shell will be pushed sideways into the groove and get stuck.
You need to make a shepherd's crook shape in the wire, with the open side of the loop facing the center of the carrier. The BLUE line in the altered drawing:

pro.jpg
 
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ok, I'll give it a whirl. As soon as can get time to make more bullets. I didn't realize how close to out I was. My other can labeled 357 bullets actually held 44 cal. I guess the coffee can lids got swapped around.
 
I have a pair of pro1000s. I'm not enthused over either. Biggest issue is the primer feed. Second biggest issue is the "powder through expanding die" which is sticky to say the least. Pulling the shell off the expander causes the whole press to vibrate, messing up the primer feed.

I've gone to sizing a big batch of shells on a singe stage, priming with a hand primer and then loading the last two stations on the Lee.

If you don't mind constant tinkering and adjusting, the Lee is all right. Just be aware that the low price is its best feature. And..you need an additional operation to taper crimp if you're loading semi-auto rounds.
 
I have a Pro 1000 and I love it. I use 1st stage to drop powder 2nd stage to seat the bullet and 3rd stage as Factory Crimp. I use a hand priming tool and have the brass ready to rock when I throw it in the press. I can make about 300 to 400 cases an hour easily with this setup.

Advice for a new user of the press: Clean everything powder touches out with dish soap very well and do not rinse the soap off. I have not had a bit of powder stick to the tubes at all since doing this.
 
I read this thread with real interest. I picked up a Pro 1000 new many years ago. I have to confess I don't know how many years, but sometime in the 1990's. I read about how some hate it, some love it, some have figured it out and tolerate it.

Well for me, I just use it. I have loaded so many thousands of rounds in it I don't recall. I currently load three different calibers. I have learned to add shell plates and die holders and just swap everything out.

I have had issues from time to time but none were serious and all were pretty simple to fix. After all these years the problems have just gone away....or should I say I must have learned how to deal with and prevent them.

I can not complain about this thing. Often I have considered getting a "better" press but then I see how much it will cost and that idea soon goes away. Besides, we are old friends now and we know each other all too well. It is not uncommon for me to sit down in an evening and load many hundreds of rounds of 9mm on it. I also load .380 and .223 bulk. With the .223 I do resizing and priming BEFORE it comes to the Pro 1000. I have changed the order of the operations as was mentioned in a previous post. Works great!

To each his own. If anyone can tell me a press that will work better than my Pro 1000 and cost less than $349 please clue me in. The Lock-N-Load looks to be good but time I set it up it cost three times more than my Lee. I know my Lee so well by now that "issues" seem rare to non-existent.
 
bds opinion:

As long as you are using quality components (same weight bullets, good cases and powder that meters well) and hand prime your cases, there is no reason why Pro 1000 cannot produce match grade ammo.

and i couldnt agree more. its all about consistency and components.
 
I cannot recommend the Lee Pro 1000. I loaded over 10k rounds on mine but it was always a constant struggle. The primers would occasionally jam, the powder dispenser would fail to dispense powder, and the case feeder would constantly bind up the press. Caliber changeovers were tedious and time consuming.

I bought a Hornady LNL and could not be happier. Rarely have any primer problems and the feed/index of the cases runs like a swiss watch. I like having the extra two stations for a powder check die. I like Lee for many things including their hand press and dies but the Pro 1000 is not one of them.
 
The primers would occasionally jam, the powder dispenser would fail to dispense powder, and the case feeder would constantly bind up the press. Caliber changeovers were tedious and time consuming.
These are the usual problems that can be resolved readily:

primers would occasionally jam - Especially with small primers, the feed tube runs low of primers or the next primer is not fully pushed into station due to debri (usually powder that fell) in the tube. Tap the tray to fill the feed tube and/or push the primer all the way into the station using a paper clip/small screwdriver. Use a partially stripped Q-tip or compressed air to clear debri from the feed tube. If enough powder particles fell into the station where the primer rod moves up and down, it will prevent free movement of the rod and you'll need to disassemble the shellplate carrier to clean.

powder dispenser would fail to dispense powder
- This happens when you "short stroke" the ram lever not allowing the Auto Disk to go back under the hopper for a full refill of powder. Cycling the ram lever all the way down and up will prevent this problem. You also need to make sure the lever that actuates the disk is in the slot under the disk. If it is not in the slot, it will "look" like it's working but won't be dispensing properly.

case feeder would constantly bind up the press - This happens for several reasons. Most common is the height of the case feeder base is not adjusted properly and dropped case neck is binding on the case base or the base of the next case in the feeder. The others are loosening of the nut on the mounting bolt that allows movement in the feeder causing the binding of cases and case feeder base touching the press body and binding the press while the shellplate carrier is moving upwards.

The sometimes overlooked cause is roughened surface the slider moves on. I have even seen this surface full of dent from forcing to feed the case with the ram lever (it applies a lot of leveraged force). When I asked, the reloader stated he got frustrated and just forced it several times. After we filed the surface down and smoothed/polished with wet/dry sandpaper and cleaned the slider, it worked fine. The slider does not need to be lubed, just kept clean/dry.

Caliber changeovers were tedious and time consuming
- Although you can change calibers by replacing the shellplate and small/large primer rod in the carrier, I have extra shellplate carriers setup with the calibers I am loading. So even changing calibers that require carrier swap, it takes about 30 seconds to change out the turret with dies (including time to unscrew/screw the Pro Auto Disk dispenser), about 2 minutes to swap the shellplate carrier, verify shell plate timing (should be right on or few seconds to adjust) and about 1-2 minutes to lock the powder hopper and change out the disk. I can do the full caliber change (including changing out the small/large priming rod, shellplate, adjusting shell plate timing, turret/die swap and disk change) under 5 minutes.

9mm and 40S&W use the same shell plate and small priming rod so it just takes replacing the turret/dies and disk (under 3 minutes). If I use the same 4.3 gr charge of W231/HP38 for 9mm 125 gr and 40S&W 180 gr bullets, I don't even have to mess with changing the disk (30 seconds just for turret/dies swap).

I cannot recommend the Lee Pro 1000
Pro 1000 is not for everyone, especially for someone new to reloading. Like other progressive presses, it does have its set of known issues that can be addressed. When I setup a Pro 1000 for a new reloader, I usually setup both single stage and Pro 1000 on the same bench and have them get familiar with the reloading process on the single stage first. Then I explain to them the progressive press does the same as the single stage, just faster. I do recommend the Classic Turret for loading pistol and rifling cartridges. If you are familiar with the reloading process on the single stage and want high volume pistol reloading, Pro 1000 is an option that should not be overlooked.
 
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PapaG said:
Second biggest issue is the "powder through expanding die" which is sticky to say the least. Pulling the shell off the expander causes the whole press to vibrate, messing up the primer feed.

I polished the flare with emery cloth until the cases stopped sticking.
 
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