I would go with a Savage with their varmint barrel and get the best scope you can afford to put on it.
PRS/NRL22 rifle
- Thread starter rdnktrkr
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I would go with a Savage with their varmint barrel and get the best scope you can afford to put on it.
So true, and a good reminder, but just saying, sales are the way to go to stretch the optics budget. Closeouts/model changes, etc.
What is the dollar amount for Production in NRL-22/PRS-22?
Varminterror
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NRL22 Base class is $1300 combined rifle and scope MSRP, PRS Production Division is $1500 combined MSRP.
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rdnktrkr
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Would I be better off getting a heavy, button-rifled, 16.5-inch barrel is also fluted, threaded Mark II FV-SR or a 21-inch, heavy carbon steel barrel Mark II FV? They appear to be the same except for the barrel and the SV comes with a scope base.
The 21" barrel will help the rifle balance better without the need for adding a bunch of weight to the rifle. While I do not own a FV-SR with a 16" barrel, I have shot them and the FV/GV/BV/BTV with the 21" barrels definitely balance better for me. I did not use a chronograph at that time but couldn't tell much difference when shooting out to 100-125 yards with each rifle.
mcb
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Running the long barrel is nice, I have a 20 on my 10/22 but on some stages it can be a liability. Stages where you are in and out of rests like the steps of a ladder or the the rails of a cattle gate those extras 4 or 5 inches can cost you time in transition. Just something to keep in mind. Same for big sunshades they are nice but can get in the way on some stages, but they come off if needed.
sparkyv
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rdnktrkr
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Not scientific, but my 16" ARs and short barrel 30-30 are not as accurate as my longer barrel one so I was also thinking along the lines of the longer barrel. If I find it to long I can get it cut down
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rdnktrkr
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Burris Xtreme Tactical 5-25x50mm 34mm Tube First Focal Plane Rifle Scope
I found this scope for a good price BUT the retail puts it out of production class limits. Now to look for optics that fall around $1k retail for a good price, then accessories, ammo, mags etc,
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I found this scope for a good price BUT the retail puts it out of production class limits. Now to look for optics that fall around $1k retail for a good price, then accessories, ammo, mags etc,
.Balance is more important than barrel length, I lose more time, much more, finding targets getting steady, than I do pulling a longer barrel in and out of props, and so did you, right now I’d worry more about that. Repeat after me……Balance is good.
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rdnktrkr
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I thought most of my problems was fundamentals like squaring up and body control more so than anything else, Being able to see the targets thru a spotting scope I thought was necessary, watching everyone else shoot and everyone giving me pointers was also a benefit. I'm looking forward to trying it again and hopefully I will improve
Varminterror
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Better balancing rifles will stabilize on target more readily - and more importantly, they'll stay on target through recoil so you can see your impacts, whether that means seeing misses, or seeing WHERE on the plate you hit, in case you still need to make a correction before moving to a later target. Obviously, less recoil on 22LR's than centerfire, but the game isn't so different - rifle balance matters A LOT.
I’ve been following along on this thread because it has answered a lot of questions for me as well. As far as optics go, would this be somewhere where a scope like the vortex venom would be a good fit? I’m curious. I don’t at all deny that there may be better choices.
Yes the Vortex Venom 5-25 will suit most people for NLR22. I am actually running an Arken SH4 6-24 MIL reticle and a Swampfox Optics Patriot 6-24 MIL reticle scope on my long range 22lr rifles. The Patriot is on my Savage MkII BTVLSS and the Arken is on my AR22.
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Varminterror
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Yes, for 22LR, on a budget, looking at Production Class, the Vortex Venom is MADE for that purpose. They built the Diamondback Tactical, then the Strike Eagle, then the Venom, largely all to shrink costs and pack features relevant to NRL22 into those models - almost like a Gen 1, Gen 2, then Gen 3 of what they produce for their "budget friendly, match capable FFP scope".
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rdnktrkr
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OK First I want to thank everyone for their assistance, I called my LGS and she was about 10% higher, with a big hug, than online so I said order it an call me when it comes in, no hurry. Now I need some optics, $1k or less and on sale for a GREAT price, any suggestions?
It what?
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rdnktrkr
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Savage Mark II FV, Her cash price was about $60 better than two other LGSs.
Now if Burris would lower the retail of that scope I would be set, I found a Vortex Venom 5-25x56 for about the same price AND the retail comes in under my cap. Is there any other scopes that would be a better bang for the buck? Optics Planet has scopes I've never heard of at big discounts, I looked at Midway and Natchez but nothing really stood out.
Now if Burris would lower the retail of that scope I would be set
, I found a Vortex Venom 5-25x56 for about the same price AND the retail comes in under my cap. Is there any other scopes that would be a better bang for the buck? Optics Planet has scopes I've never heard of at big discounts, I looked at Midway and Natchez but nothing really stood out.
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rdnktrkr
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Also now I will need to get multiple different brands of ammo, I kind of figure the bulk stuff is out, any suggestions on others to stay away from and which ones to look for? Eley, SK, Norma, CCI, Aquila, Winchester, Lapua, Fiocchi, Speer, Hornaday. I'm sure there are more and each of those has multiple offerings. I will get a sampling when I pick up the rifle and stop by Academy and see what they have, I'm sure online would be cheaper but with shipping I think it would even out.
Should I look for 0,20 or 30 MOA rings? I noticed the RPR22 has 30moa rings but Savage uses standard. Is it better to have a one piece mount or two piece?
Should I look for 0,20 or 30 MOA rings? I noticed the RPR22 has 30moa rings but Savage uses standard. Is it better to have a one piece mount or two piece?
You can get rings with built in MOA or you can go with a one piece rail mount that replaces the factory two piece Weaver mounts which allows you to use standard rings.. What MOA mount/rings to get will depend on the scope you buy and how much elevation adjustment it has. Scopes with less elevation adjustments will require a mount with more MOA built in.
I am using a DIP 25 MOA mount on my Savage MkII BTVLSS along with the Swampfox Patriot 6-24 scope. I have enough elevation adjustments in the scope with that mount to dial or hold over (with reticle) out to a little over 300 yards.
I am using a DIP 25 MOA mount on my Savage MkII BTVLSS along with the Swampfox Patriot 6-24 scope. I have enough elevation adjustments in the scope with that mount to dial or hold over (with reticle) out to a little over 300 yards.
Varminterror
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For 22LR, get at least 40moa of base and rings - but with that Venom, get 50MOA, here’s why:
A 50yrd zero with standard velocity ammo has ~12moa of total drop compensation built into the zero, up from optical center, or a 100yrd zero has ~19moa of compensation, so adding a 20moa base only gets us back to optical center at 100, or down ~8moa at a 50yrd zero… in other words, with a 20moa base or rings, we are closer to optical center at either 50 or 100yrds than we would be with a flat base, AND, we’re still only accessing about half of the available scope adjustment… I prefer to have 40-60moa of base and ring angle, which means I’ll have access to more than half of my scope, preferably almost ALL of the scope…
For example - the Vortex Venom has 25mils of internal vertical capacity, which is 86moa. If I have a 2.1” optic height, shooting standard velocity ammo, using a 20moa base and a 50yrd zero, I’ll be DOWN ~8moa from optical center at my zero, meaning I’ll have 51moa available for range compensation - AND - I’ll have 35moa of unused elevator. So if I add 30moa more in rings or base, 50MOA total, my 50yrd zero will be DOWN ~38moa from optical center, 5moa from the end of my vertical adjustment, and I’ll have access to ~81moa of range compensation, which gets me to about 415yrds without holding over in the reticle.
So pairing a Vortex Venom with your Savage, I would put on 50MOA in rail and ring angle.
I have Nightforce 20moa 1pc picatinny rails on both of my Savage Mark II’s, with 40moa of extra shim angle in Burris Signature Zee and XTR Signature rings for a total of 60moa. I do have a bit more elevator capacity than the Venom in my scopes though a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x and Athlon Helos BTR Gen II 4-20x50, both with 110moa elevators, so I can add that extra 10moa which won’t fit within your Venom’s capacity. So you should pick 50MOA for that Venom on your Savage.
BTW - I did all of that math in MOA to keep things simple, but 100% get a scope which uses 0.1mrad clicks, NOT a 1/4moa click scope.
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rdnktrkr
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I've been looking around at optics for the Mark II , these are some I've found.
4. Vortex. Diamondback, Strike Eagle, Venom, & Viper all within $100
5, Athlon. Heras, Helos, & Argos the same as Vortex and up to $100 more
1, US Optics, 1 Riton X3, 1 Arkin EP5, 1 Swampfox Warhawk, 1 Bushnell Match Pro (cheapest)
All these are between 4-20 and 8-34 power, x 50 or 56 with either 30 and 34mm tubes
Are there other scopes that I should be looking at?
4. Vortex. Diamondback, Strike Eagle, Venom, & Viper all within $100
5, Athlon. Heras, Helos, & Argos the same as Vortex and up to $100 more
1, US Optics, 1 Riton X3, 1 Arkin EP5, 1 Swampfox Warhawk, 1 Bushnell Match Pro (cheapest)
All these are between 4-20 and 8-34 power, x 50 or 56 with either 30 and 34mm tubes
Are there other scopes that I should be looking at?
Zero stop isn’t an absolute must, but it’s real dang handy, the little US Optics 3-12 I have (great deal) doesn’t have one, neither does the 5-25 Crimson Trace I bought on sale. It’s easier to find true zero on it, it goes to about “negative” 6 and stops, so not a fill turn, then just dial back to zero.
So not critical, but awfully handy, especially in a match.
So not critical, but awfully handy, especially in a match.
Varminterror
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@rdnktrkr - I’m gonna offer a few points here in a shotgun blast:
• I’m gonna augment @walkalong’s sentiment that Zero stop is just nice but not necessary, and say instead, getting a scope without zero stop for PRS/NRL competition is a mistake. You WILL make repeated mistakes where you find yourself a rev off on your dial, sending rounds 10-15 mils off target with no idea where your bullets are going. There are too many good options which do have zero stops to waste time on optics without. If you design your base angle properly, you might put yourself at the very bottom of your elevator so you cannot be off by a rev BELOW zero, like Walkalong mentioned for his scope, but if you don’t set up the base angle properly, you can get lost in which rev corresponds to your zero.
• Be mindful of elevation capacity and focal plane in anything you buy. 8-34x may be limited on elevator capacity, and again, picking an option with limited elevator is a mistake.
• Be very mindful of discount programs and how you might be able to access them to save money. I picked up my Athlon Helos BTR Gen II for my son’t 22LR because it was on promotion through one of these pro discount programs for only $300.
• Equally, be mindful of used scope market opportunities - you might be able to pick up a used Vortex Viper PST G2 for the same price as a new Athlon.
• Be VERY mindful of the minimum parallax focus distance of whatever you buy. Not all scopes can focus down to 10-15yrds, and that parallax will stress your eyes and potentially cause misses on the small target on the TYL rack.
• mrad, not moa. Graduated reticle, Christmas tree or marked stadia, nothing like a TReMoR or Horus reticles.
• I’m gonna augment @walkalong’s sentiment that Zero stop is just nice but not necessary, and say instead, getting a scope without zero stop for PRS/NRL competition is a mistake. You WILL make repeated mistakes where you find yourself a rev off on your dial, sending rounds 10-15 mils off target with no idea where your bullets are going. There are too many good options which do have zero stops to waste time on optics without. If you design your base angle properly, you might put yourself at the very bottom of your elevator so you cannot be off by a rev BELOW zero, like Walkalong mentioned for his scope, but if you don’t set up the base angle properly, you can get lost in which rev corresponds to your zero.
• Be mindful of elevation capacity and focal plane in anything you buy. 8-34x may be limited on elevator capacity, and again, picking an option with limited elevator is a mistake.
• Be very mindful of discount programs and how you might be able to access them to save money. I picked up my Athlon Helos BTR Gen II for my son’t 22LR because it was on promotion through one of these pro discount programs for only $300.
• Equally, be mindful of used scope market opportunities - you might be able to pick up a used Vortex Viper PST G2 for the same price as a new Athlon.
• Be VERY mindful of the minimum parallax focus distance of whatever you buy. Not all scopes can focus down to 10-15yrds, and that parallax will stress your eyes and potentially cause misses on the small target on the TYL rack.
• mrad, not moa. Graduated reticle, Christmas tree or marked stadia, nothing like a TReMoR or Horus reticles.
