PTR 91 sights

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avs11054

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I just wanted to make sure I have this down right for the drum sight on the PTR 91.

The V notch is a CQB sight

The "2" sight is dead on at 200 yards

The "3" sight is dead on at 300 yards

The "4" sight is dead on at 400 yards.

Also, from what I've read, there is a special tool that you need to adjust it between these settings. I am able to turn my sight with my hands. Is that a bad thing?

Thanks for the help.
 
The V is a "CQB" but is also supposed to be 100M.

I would not expect any of them to be "dead on" unless you have the absolute exact perfect load matched to them. However, they should be good approximations.

Yes, the drum can be rotated with your hands, easily. Perhaps the tool is for adjusting some other aspect?

If you haven't already taken apart and reassembled the bolt group, you're in for a load of fun.
 
Don't let Z dissuade you... the rifle is simplicity itself!

The elevation adjustment is accomplished either with the special HK tool or with needle nosed pliars by retracting the two transverse spring loaded pins down inside the drum. Once these are disengaged from their respective slots, you can "unscrew" the drum to raise the point of impact, or "screw in" the drum to lower the point of impact of your rounds.

Windage is fairly straightforward. By loosening the large screw located on the sight behind the drum just a skosh, you can drift the rear sight right or left to accommodate some windage changes. Once you have it set, you are good to go.

For myself I have a 300 (+/-) meter zero, and the 200 is a bit high and the 400 is a bit low with standard NATO ammo. The notch is a fascinating design. You rest the outside of the front globe sight in the notch and you are pretty much "on" out to 200. Very nice setup, easy to use.

The rifle itself is very easy to point shoot without the sights with a little practice and both eyes open and the cheek resting on the "hump" of the stock. Really. With practice you can hit pepper poppers pretty regularly from standing without using the sights with this rifle out to maybe just shy of 100 meters.

Disassembly of the bolt is confusing the first few times you do it, but you get used to it quickly enough. It is simplicity itself once you have done it a couple times.
 
Disassembly of the bolt is confusing the first few times you do it, but you get used to it quickly enough. It is simplicity itself once you have done it a couple times.

Oh, the disassembly is easy enough - it's the reassembly that gave me fits, and fits, and fits. I'm sure practice helps, but the first time can be really rough. Should we spoil the surprise?
 
so just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly, the numbers on the rear sight don't mean a whole lot unless I take the time to adjust the elevation and windage using the methods described? And being able to turn the rear sight between 1 - 4 with my hand is not the same as adjusting the elevation?

also, it sounds like you have your rifle zeroed at 300 yards looking through the 3 hold. When you look throug the 2 hole and shoot 200 yards, you're a little high, and when you shoot through the 4 hole at 400 yards, you're a little low.

if you could just confirm I understand you correctly, that'd be awesome. Thanks.
 
The 2, 3, 4 on the rear sight are to get you combat accurate hits once the gun has it's initial zero. Same as the numbers on an AK's sight leaf or an AR's rear sight drum. The inital zero is fine tuned with the screws.

I don't remember the exact process but the sight is supposed to work with NATO 7.62. I think you zero the rifle at 200m on the #2 hole by either shooting at 200m or using a reduced target at some predetermined closer range. That is what the screws are for: the one inside the drum adjust elevation, the knob on the right adjust windage (once you loosen the tension screw on top). Once you have that zero everything else should fall into place: the V notch puts you on at ~100m I found, the 3 at 300m and the 4 at 400m. It's not exact but it'll be close enough.
 
avs11054: Yes that's what I meant. Some guys zero at 200 and find that the 3 and 4 are a little off. I chose to zero at 300. Don't suppose it really matters other than that's how I did it.

Have fun with your new rifle!
 
You can achieve a 300 meter zero by setting the sight to the 3 setting and shooting at 25 Meters for point of aim, point of impact.
I was lucky enough to get one of the adjustment tools and used it to fine tune the sight settings.

Once you have the 300 meter zero established, the rest of the sight settings will be pretty much spot on. HTH
 
Everyone has pretty much gotten it covered - there will be a bit of difference because those holes are for meters, not yards - but will be generally near enough.

The special tool is expensive - I suggest either a set of calipers or very thin needle nose pliers as a (less than $10) alternative.
 
Oh, the disassembly is easy enough - it's the reassembly that gave me fits, and fits, and fits. I'm sure practice helps, but the first time can be really rough. Should we spoil the surprise?
Can be till you get used to it...but there's a couple of little tricks that help!
 
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