Pull Down 7.62 NATO... A few questions

[Saluki91]

I recently acquired some primed LC 7.62 NATO pull-down brass. From a different vendor, I scored some pull-down .308 168gr SMK. My questions:

1 - I found that Simple Green and elbow grease will remove the remaining sealant from the bullets. However, I would prefer to watch paint dry. Is there an easier way to clean the sealant off? I thought about acetone, but I was leery of what it might do to the jacket. Of course, I ask this assuming that it is indeed necessary to remove the sealant in the first place.

2 - I assume that I can safely size the brass if I take the de-capping pin out of the sizing die. However, I am hesitant to do so, as I am concerned that the sealant remaining on the cases will mar my sizing die. Is this a valid concern?

3 - Is there anything else I am missing re. reloading pull-down brass and/or bullets?

Thanks!

 

[Klaatu Barada Nikto]

You can dry tumble loaded ammo, can't see why you couldn't with primed brass or just the projectiles, just be sure to blow off any medium residue.

 

[Airborne Falcon]

Are you talking about the sealant ring around the actual bullet where it was crimped?

I mean you can tumble with rocks or pins and some alkaline based degreaser but you're going to leech some of the zinc out of the jacket when you do that.

You can also use a drill and a green pad and a solvent of some kind ... once you get on a roll it goes fairly fast and it really doesn't take much solvent on the green pad. Use little 2x2 pieces of green pad and when you see it starting to gum up just get a new piece.

Why would you resize a primed case that has not been fired? Is there any indication that those primers are bad?

Is there a date of mfg on that LC headstamp by chance? You must be talking about a fairly heavy laquer coat.

 

[Saluki91]

Are you talking about the sealant ring around the actual bullet where it was crimped?

Yes - That is correct.

Some of the brass has some residual sealant inside the case mouth as well.

 

[Airborne Falcon]

Inside the case mouth is easy using your chamfering and deburring tool before you bell the case to seat a new (or pulled) bullet.

I mean how concerned are you that the remaining lacquer on the pill is going to negatively affect them or ... better yet, are you going to reassemble the loads, same brass, same bullets, propellant of your liking?

 

[Charlie98]

I bought some pull-down LC 18 brass, it had traces of sealant. I just loaded them up and went to town.

Airborne, OP is probably thinking to get good neck tension for the 168's he needs to at least neck size the brass... and if they are for accuracy rounds I would agree.

 

[Saluki91]

Inside the case mouth is easy using your chamfering and deburring tool before you bell the case to seat a new (or pulled) bullet.

I mean how concerned are you that the remaining lacquer on the pill is going to negatively affect them or ... better yet, are you going to reassemble the loads, same brass, same bullets, propellant of your liking?

My plan was to use the primed brass with IMR4064 and those 168gr SMK.

As for my concern... I don't know if I should be concerned. I suspect they will be fine as they are for plinking, but I want to develop some precise loads as well.

 

[Charlie98]

My plan was to use the primed brass with IMR4064 and those 168gr SMK.

As for my concern... I don't know if I should be concerned. I suspect they will be fine as they are for plinking, but I want to develop some precise loads as well.

I thought as much. A few things...

1) Don't forget... LC is military brass and is heavier than commercial brass. If you are using data for regular .308 loads (not service rifle...) you will need to reduce 1grn at start, because of the smaller internal case volume of the heavier LC brass. Also, that brass will have CCI #34 or another arsenal primer... treat it like a Magnum primer.

2) I always recommend just firing a practice load, or a load not intended for absolute precision, through new brass... THEN spend the time to prep the brass the way you want it.

 

[Saluki91]

I thought as much. A few things...

1) Don't forget... LC is military brass and is heavier than commercial brass. If you are using data for regular .308 loads (not service rifle...) you will need to reduce 1grn at start, because of the smaller internal case volume of the heavier LC brass. Also, that brass will have CCI #34 or another arsenal primer... treat it like a Magnum primer.

2) I always recommend just firing a practice load, or a load not intended for absolute precision, through new brass... THEN spend the time to prep the brass the way you want it.

Point #2 is especially well taken - thanks!

 

[Charlie98]

I know it burns up some precious bullets and powder, but that's how I do it.

I find after the first firing is when I have to do the majority of my case trimming... depending on the firearm they have been fired in. New brass, even pull-down, can be all over the map, dimension wise.

 

[Airborne Falcon]

I assumed neck sizing too until he mentioned removing the decapping pin ... that threw me a curve.

So yes OP, Charlie is 100% correct (especially about reduced starting grns, thicker brass and those #34 primers) and IMHO pulled 168 SMKs are fine for reloading but sometimes they are slightly deformed and are not what you might want if you are trying to work-up up a real quality accuracy round for long range work.

But what platform are you loading these for? 4064 is a great powder for 7.62x51 and I've used a bunch of it for service rifle reloads, both M1As and my SCAR Heavy and my SIG 716s. I would use those pulled 168 SMKs in any of those without worrying about removing the lacquer.

Now, my M21 (M14 build) is my 600 meter stick and my Savage 10 FP is my 1000 meter stick and I would use brand spanking new factory SMK 168s for those ... and Charlie is right again, neck tension and proper crimping is so important depending upon which platform you are going to feed these to.

Good luck friend! Let us know how they turn out!

 

[Charlie98]

and my Savage 10 FP is my 1000 meter stick

My Socom16 M1a and my Savage 10 TAC are my barometers. I spend far more time on the brass intended for the Savage than I do the Socom.

 

[Saluki91]

I assumed neck sizing too until he mentioned removing the decapping pin ... that threw me a curve.

So yes OP, Charlie is 100% correct (especially about reduced starting guns, thicker brass and those #34 primers) and IMHO pulled 168 SMKs are fine for reloading but sometimes they are slightly deformed and are not what you might want if you are trying to work-up up a real quality accuracy round for long range work.

But what platform are you loading these for? 4064 is a great powder for 7.62x51 and I've used a bunch of it for service rifle reloads, both M1As and my SCAR Heavy and my SIG 716s. I would use those pulled 168 SMKs in any of those without worrying about removing the lacquer.

Now, my M21 (M14 build) is my 600 meter stick and my Savage 10 FP is my 1000 meter stick and I would use brand spanking new factory SMK 168s for those ... and Charlie is right again, neck tension and proper crimping is so important depending upon which platform you are going to feed these to.

Good luck friend! Let us know how they turn out!

My grandfather used to shoot matches with a Kleinguenther K14 back in the 1970's. That gun was given to me recently, and I'll have it in my possession in a few weeks. That is the platform I intend to use. Needless to say, I am a .308 and precision rifle noob, but I'm really excited to learn more.

THANKS!

 

[AJC1]

You can safely remove the primer and keep for later. Treat the cases as fired and fully process including wet tumble to get that sealant out. If a bullet spins at 275k rpm how much imbalance makes a difference. I just trialed this exact same thing and the results were garbage. I will be testing 168 ppu admittedly garbage to finish the cycle in what your starting.

 

[Charlie98]

I think your basic recipe will give you some excellent results... IMR4064 and the 168grn SMK is what I've been shooting in my Savage, it's hard to go wrong there.

 

[Rebar46nyc]

I bought what I’m assuming is the same primed brass you are speaking of. I resized… no pin obviously, I started to trim cases as it was pull down brass that’s where the sealant is an issue. That being said the trimming not really necessary unless going for some match stuff the cases aren’t off that much. Back to sealant… I just resized and loaded. As for trimming that’s where the sealant accumulated on the cutter so occasionally I would hit it with one shot and wipe it off it was easy.

 

[GHinNH]

About everything rifle related I do is pulldowns, acetone won't hurt a thing. It's actually about perfect, works quick and dries fast with no residue. Toss them into the tumbler with some NuFinish and GTG.

Liquid is extremely flammable and large amount of vapor is explosive, but a rag with some on it only requires caution, just put out the cigar first. If your wife hasn't blown up or caught on fire doing her fingernails then there's nothing to worry about.

 

[EricBu]

Neck size without decap pin, load, and send 'em. The sealant won't cause any problems, but trying to clean it might. If you're worried about how they look after you load them......drop 'em in corncop with some Nu-Finish for 10 minutes.

 

[Dale Alan]

I would pop the primers out and treat them like 1x fired brass . Clean them and the bullets real good . LC is good stuff, why not start from scratch and know your accuracy potential right out of the gate .

 

[Rule3]

You need "exotic" solvents like those listed here.

Xylene. Mineral spirits paint thinner) the real stuff not odorless, Lacquer thinner, whatever.

Of course you could go green and try other stuff.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/sealant-on-pulled-bullets.822294/

 

[FROGO207]

I always keep a can of carb cleaner around for cleaning duty. Just spray some on a rag and clean the tar off. Or as stated use acetone. Just do this in a well ventilated area.

 

[Bcwitt]

I think acetone would be fine. I'm not aware of any organic solvent that would be harmful to brass.

 

[Jerry M]

IMHO:
Resize the necks with the decapping pin removed;
Do not, do not 'bell the case' there is no need with boat tail bullets,
Put the bullets in the tumbler if the sealant bothers you,
Ignore the sealant in the case, Many thousands of match grade ammunition was fired with great results with neck sealant.
Choose a safe powder charge, load and fire a few rounds.
Once satisfied everything is up to your standards, load the rest of the cases.

Good Luck

 

[Laphroaig]

Gasoline will dissolve that tar in a few seconds. I'm not sure if its any more dangerous than acetone, but I know which one I have in my garage. I sloshed mine around in a metal coffee can, no visible effect to the bullets.

 

[Charlie98]

Gasoline will dissolve that tar in a few seconds.

I was kind of wondering the same thing...