Pulling bullets to load less powder - what to do with primer?

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Jim K III

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I have a couple hundred 25-06 reloads my father-in-law (RIP) gave me a while back. He mentioned that he was foolish and went beyond the recommended specs and that it caused his bolt to jam after shooting. Sure enough, I went to shoot one of the rounds (I had forgotten that he told me about overloading) and the bolt jammed on me too. I pulled a few bullets and the powder measures a full gain over the max load spec. So I'm going to pull all the bullets and re-reload with the correct powder specs.

I'm thinking I'll need to use the resizing die to expand the case mouth again prior to seating the bullets. However, the shells have good primers in them that the resizing die will punch out.

Is there a way to use the sizing die minus the decapping pin in order to keep the primer? Or should I just carefully (and with eye protection) deprime them just like with fired primers?

Last question - is it a serious 'no-no' to try and reuse the primers? I'd be throwing away a couple hundred primers, but they aren't that expensive.

Thanks!
 
IF, your resizing die has the screw in deprimer rod, remove it, then set the case size as you normally would. Action complete, primer still in place..

good luck
Dan
 
Yeah there is a way. Take the decapping stem out of the die and resize them without it. Leave the primers in the cases and reload them to suit yourself.
edit to add:
If you feel you need to resized the inside of the neck then take the pin out of the neck sizing button and resize them.
 
One of the most dangerous things you can do is to pour the powder out of a bottleneck case like a 25-06 and then measure another charge and dump it into the case. Some of the powder from the 1st charge can be held in the case by static electricity, moisture or oil and then you will really get a big charge. Don't do it! Run the case through a full length sizing die that removes the primer and then wash the case before loading it again. I know there are others who will disagree but you only need one mistake to ruin a rifle, or worse. If you reload 100 cases with the original primer in place and 99 cases get the correct new charge it only takes 1 bad charge to ruin your day.
 
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One of the most dangerous things you can do is to pour the powder out of a bottleneck case like a 25-06 and then measure another charge and dump it into the case. Some of the powder from the 1st charge can be held in the case by static electricity and then you will really get a big charge. Don't do it! Run the case through a full length sizing die that removes the primer and then wash the case before loading it again. I know there are others who will disagree but you only need one mistake to ruin a rifle, or worse. If you reload 100 cases with the original primer in place and 99 cases get the correct new charge it only takes 1 bad charge to ruin your day.
Yup, you’re right, there are those who will disagree with you. I’m one of them. It’s not rocket science checking to make sure all the powder is out of the case. Static electricity doesn’t keep powder in the case either, if it was a compressed charge powder can and probably will hang up in the case. A small pick or screwdriver easily dislodges any powder stuck in the case. Tapping the case mouth on a block of wood dislodges any powder after scraping it out with a screwdriver. It’s quite simple to look into the case and make sure there is no powder left in there too. What needs done has been described above. Pull the bullets, dump the powder making sure it is all out, about a two second job, pull the deprime pin and treat the case as a fired case. If the pin isn’t removable remove the stem, run the case into the sizing die, put the stem and ball back in the die and run the case up into the die Pushing the neck over neck expander ball rather than pulling the case out and over the ball. The key is to run the case into the die only far enough to size/open the neck. Pretty easy to tell when that occurs. Extract the case from the die with the primer fully seated, the decap pin never gets close to the primer while sizing the inside of the neck. Granted, removing the decap pin would be easier but many Lee and Hornady dies don’t give you that option. The sky is not falling.
 
So, you're going to look through a quarter inch hole into a large dark case and decide all the powder is out? Even if you get light into the case with your head in the way you can't see the walls and the inside of the shoulder directly behind the neck. Pull some 25-06 bullets, dump the powder and rap the case on a block of wood with the neck down, and then wash the cases in soap & water. Look for powder in the wash water and then you can decide using your rocket science whether one grain came out of each case or all the grains came out of one case.
 
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One word... brush. Well, ok then, two words.... brush and tapupsidedownonbenchtop.
 
Wow, it takes the Internet to find something else to worry about.
I have pulled a number of bullets and not found smokeless powder to cling to the brass unless wet. (The pretty red stuff around the bullet and primer on Sellier and Bellot ammo is NOT waterproof.)
Black powder is a different matter, being routinely compressed. I have had to dig out the powder with a non-metallic implement. I avoid doing that unless really necessary.
 
I didn't realize that the brass needed resized after pulling the bullets. Granted, Ive probably only pulled a couple hundred, and never at the same time...and have only used the hammer type puller. But I usually always just adjust my powder charge and re-seat the bullet.
 
Safest to neck size.
But a real radical thought, pull ONE bullet, dump the powder, put some back*, seat the bullet, and see what the bullet pull is. Can you push it back or pull it out with hand pressure? If so, the necks must be sized. If not, shoot it, and try several.

*Note to OP: I would not expect a one grain overload to "jam the bolt." That individual rifle might have a tight chamber or bore and its individual maximum load be less than the book's. I would make the Starting Load 10% reduction or at least the old Speer 6% reduction.
But that assumes that FiL used the right powder. Darn, now I am doing it, looking for trouble.
 
25-06 is a big case body for a small case mouth. Adequately seeing down into the case to check for residual powder is not going to be effective (I would argue not necessary either, but if OP decides to do it then that’s fine) I would get a tiny nylon bristle brush and do a quick plunge with a quick twist each direction and then pull the brush out. It’s an extra 5 minutes or so of work and it’s an added precaution so I can’t argue against it. Like checking the car over before leaving on vacation... it’s not a bad idea, it doesn’t take much time, and if you want it then it gives you a little peace of mind.
 
When I want to completely remove the powder from a small (9MM) case I turn it over and ream it with a Q tip.
 
Yup, you’re right, there are those who will disagree with you. I’m one of them. It’s not rocket science checking to make sure all the powder is out of the case. Static electricity doesn’t keep powder in the case either

Static electricity keeps anything with one charge attracted to objects with an opposite charge, so long as the physical forces pulling them apart (like gravity) don't exceed the aforementioned attraction. Static electricity is but one force that absolutely can 'stick' powder particles to the inside of cases, loading equipment, etc. Especially with really fine, light, small-grain ball powders.

That being said, getting all the powder out isn't hard, and if there's a fragment or 2 that escapes a good visual inspection, I don't see how it could possibly be enough to cause a dangerous condition. If a load is so 'iffy' that a spec or 2 of excess powder causes overpressure...
 
Has anyone ever felt a static shock when picking up a brass case? Neither have I.
 
Just be careful and heed the warnings when removing all the powder. Let it pass the common sense test and you will be OK. I for one wouldn't want to lose those primers especially when prices for components have been going up.
 
Put the case in the kinetic puller. Slam out the bullet and powder. Empty the bullet and powder out of the puller. Slam the puller with the empty case in it a couple more times. I doubt any powder will remain after a good hard slam!

I have unloaded bad loads before and I have never had a problem. If you are REALLY overly concerned get one of those $20 USB snake cameras (inspection cameras) and it will give you a very nice view of the inside of the case... but I personally think it is a waste of time.
 
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