Putting a sling on my rifle.

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If the OP is around, or anyone else who is knowledgeable on this subject I'd appreciate some input. There was a brief comment above but didn't go much further than that.

Regarding the Marlin, and either the stock or the mag tube type sling mounts... From what I understand, at Appleseed they educate you on a pretty tense sling position that will put a lot of pressure on the gun. I've read that the Marlin can be "flimsy" and have read accounts of both stock-mounted and tube-mounted slins throwing off the point-of-impact. Are these rare cases and others have successfully used a sling at high tension on a Marlin 60 without issue, and with benefits to their shooting? Once I get my new scope mounted I'll be itching to get a sling on the gun, having read good things about it, but don't want to somehow end up breaking the stock (mine is the base model laminated wood stock) or making the gun need to be adjusted/zeroed completely different for sling vs non-sling operation due to warping.

Thanks for any comments!
 
From what I understand, at Appleseed they educate you on a pretty tense sling position that will put a lot of pressure on the gun.

While different instructors and shoot bosses vary, in general Appleseed should be teaching a sling "taut, not tight". This isn't NRA High Power, it is field shooting. You don't need shooting jackets, gloves, pulse pads, etc. I have no problem using the factory stock on my Marlin 795, and it is not uncommon to improvise a front sling "swivel" using zip ties around the mag tube. I would still be nervous about screwing a stud into the Marlin 60 stock however because it is awfully thin there under the tube.

Jibs: That sling doesn't look like a good choice for Appleseed. You'd want something that can be used for the GI loop sling. The Appleseed store or the CMP are a great source for these.
 
Give me a break!

Do you have a drill press? Do you know how to use it?

The only trick is this: Center the holes. The way to do that is to wrap a piece of paper around the stock, then crease it in half, then put it back around the stock and mark the center of the crease. That way you locate the center of the holes to be drilled.

Put masking tape on the stock before you mark it -- that will help prevent splintering, and make an indentation with a center punch before drilling. Drill with a standard screw-setter.

The rear swivel simply screws in. On the forearm swivel, you'll have to countersink inside the stock for the nut, and make sure neither the nut or any protruding bit of the screw contacts the metal parts of the rifle.

That's all there is to it.
 
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Called Marlin and gave them my serial number, the stock is actually birch, not laminated wood like I thought. The rep on the line suggested using the forend as a mount regardless. I will probably go with the "T-nut" method...
 
Ideal Fugacity,
A few quick thoughts for you:

1. With regards to mounting the sling swivel.
I bought a regular pack of sling swivels from Wal Mart - $8 or so. I cut the long screw so that it would fit in the stock under the tube area. I installed it and actually had to file it down a bit so the tube wound not be in contact with the sling swivel screw. Sounds long, but it took maybe 10 minutes.

2. With regards to sling tension.
What BluEyes said is 100% correct. Some As instructors will tell you to tighten the sling wayyyyy too much. At my first AS, a red hat instructor had me tighten my sling so much that my AR15 was shooting an two inches low and an inch to the left at 25 yards!

Just taut is correct.

PS - I used a Marlin 60 to earn my patch. Happened to do it with no sling, but also shot the score many times with one at that AS, as well.

3. Special considerations using a tube feed at Appleseed.

I made a post on my blog about my experience, as well as some methods to help for using a Marlin 60 at Appleseed. I know of at least a dozen other shooters who have been helped by these techniques. It also gets a Google hit at least once a week. Hope it helps you, too.
 
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I didn't want to modify mine, drilling in the stock or clamping on the barrel and possibly wearing the finish.

I used paracord, wrapped tightly around the barrel and tube, between the tube end and the opening, tying a small loop into it on the bottom, then did the same thing on the stock. About 7 wraps of paracord. I actually wove a paracord sling for it to match, but I could have easily just attached a set of Mikes swivels and a GI web sling to it.


It's worked out very well, and it didn't alter the gun.
 
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