question about 1911 speed hump or memory bump

[1KPerDay]

Dan Wesson 1911. Verrrry nice 3.5 lb trigger. Has the raised portion of the grip safety. Don't know what it is about this particular beavertail but occasionally I'll get on target after a draw and press the trigger and get nothing. My reflexes have me do a tap-rack-reattempt but what's happening is the grip safety is not fully disengaged by my hand. I use a high thumbs-forward grip and my large hands for some reason don't have enough meat right on the memory pad of the grip safety. I did 50 draw/dry fires last night and had 3 or 4 where I didn't get the grip safety depressed far enough. It feels like I'm gripping the pistol properly.

Question: would it be stupid to remove a little more of the bottom edge of the safety tab so the grip safety wouldn't have to move quite as far to clear the trigger bow (assuming this could be done while maintaining the proper function of the safety)? Any reason why this shouldn't be done? I don't have this problem on any other 1911, including a Colt commander with duckbill and/or wilson beavertail, stock RIA tactical and GI models, Kimbers, and Para ord P14-45 limited. Never an issue with those.

 

[1KPerDay]

OR: is there some aftermarket glue-on pad to build up the bump? Boy would that look stupid, but it would save me a few seconds in a match.

 

[Jim Watson]

Not an uncommon problem. It is due to the high hold allowed by a beavertail and the popular "thumbs forward" grip on the gun.

Yes, you can "sensitize" the grip safety so it does not have to be depressed as far to release.

Yes, you can glue on a pad to make an even bigger "memory bump." I did that on a gun loaned to a friend. But she converted to Glock anyhow.

I know one guy who even had his welded up because even with the shortest travel, he had such a high grip as to not reliably get the grip safety.

 

[1KPerDay]

I'd consider it if it looked okay and felt okay. Know anyone who does this?

 

[9mmepiphany]

What is likely happening is that your high grip is applying pressure to the beavertail and leveraging the grip safety out.

Rather than weld up the pad, a better/cleaner/cooler solution would be a Grayguns Hardtail. Bruce cuts and welds the grip safety so that you still have an operational grip safety while able to apply upward pressure on the beavertail

[resize=500] [/resize]

 

[Zerodefect]

2 things you need to do:

File this here very slowly.


Cut the rear edge of of the thumb safety paddle. It'll allow your thumb to go further forward. The stock safety is forcing your thumb up and over, if you cut that paddle down, you can comfortably have your thumb angled less up and more forward. Better recoil control, way better grip, you can even get a higher tang grip now:


I reground mine again after this pic. The rear half is a concave curve instead of flat now. More of a tear drop shape. It's awesome feeling. My thumb is noticably flatter forward and my palm/thumb area is on the grip safety more firmly.

 

[1KPerDay]

What is likely happening is that your high grip is applying pressure to the beavertail and leveraging the grip safety out.

Rather than weld up the pad, a better/cleaner/cooler solution would be a Grayguns Hardtail. Bruce cuts and welds the grip safety so that you still have an operational grip safety while able to apply upward pressure on the beavertail

[resize=500] [/resize]

pretty slick!

 

[wally]

Has the raised portion of the grip safety. Don't know what it is about this particular beavertail but occasionally I'll get on target after a draw and press the trigger and get nothing. My reflexes have me do a tap-rack-reattempt but what's happening is the grip safety is not fully disengaged by my hand. I use a high thumbs-forward grip and my large hands for some reason don't have enough meat right on the memory pad of the grip safety. I did 50 draw/dry fires last night and had 3 or 4 where I didn't get the grip safety depressed far enough. It feels like I'm gripping the pistol properly.

I started to develop this problem when I broke the habit of keeping my thumb on safety lever as part of my grip -- I did this because of the other guns I shoot. Went back to thumb on the safety lever when shooting 1911s and haven't had the problem since. I also find thumb on the lever helps a bit with recoil control. If your lever breaks when doing this you needed better quality parts anyways.

I'd try this solution before buying any do-dad solutions or messing with your pistol.

 

[Zerodefect]

The Valors have very safely set GS's. I doubt he'll be able to dodge the file.

 

[4thPointOfContact]

If I recall, there is a mfg that has a backstrap replacement that eliminates the grip safety, although I don't know if they offer it separately or if it's still offered at all.

Some manufacturer a few years ago had a key locked grip safety. I wonder what it would be like to have something more or less opposite of that. Instead of locking the grip safety so it could not be operated, it would lock it so that it stayed depressed.

..... that or just pin the safety with a loose fitting pin that would fall out when a grip panel was removed.

 

[Zerodefect]

That's not necessary anymore. 30 minutes with a file and some TS work fixes it perfectly.

 

[1KPerDay]

2 things you need to do:

File this here very slowly.


Cut the rear edge of of the thumb safety paddle. It'll allow your thumb to go further forward. The stock safety is forcing your thumb up and over, if you cut that paddle down, you can comfortably have your thumb angled less up and more forward. Better recoil control, way better grip, you can even get a higher tang grip now:


I reground mine again after this pic. The rear half is a concave curve instead of flat now. More of a tear drop shape. It's awesome feeling. My thumb is noticably flatter forward and my palm/thumb area is on the grip safety more firmly.

Thanks. I may try that. It does feel like my thumb doesn't have a lot of room.

 

[1KPerDay]

I started to develop this problem when I broke the habit of keeping my thumb on safety lever as part of my grip -- I did this because of the other guns I shoot. Went back to thumb on the safety lever when shooting 1911s and haven't had the problem since. I also find thumb on the lever helps a bit with recoil control. If your lever breaks when doing this you needed better quality parts anyways.

I'd try this solution before buying any do-dad solutions or messing with your pistol.

actually it happens BECAUSE I have my thumb atop the safety. if I move it below it puts more meat on the grip safety and it doesn't happen.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Don't grip with your thumb below the thumb safety.

The reason that riding the thumb safety is taught is to prevent kicking it on during recoil

 

[Jim Watson]

I would or would have FLG (Have done so) reduce the engagement to "sensitize" the grip safety.

If you still need the bump enlarged, I would try it with a glued on piece of leather or hard rubber. If it works, here is what it can be made to look like:
http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/h...E-471C-89FF-3C73E95A016E_zps7zebdqzk.jpg.html

I have much admired the Gray "Hardtail" conversion but cannot imagine what it would cost or how long it would take him to get around to it away from his bread and butter work on Sigs and coaching.

Novak will not sell you an "Answer" one piece backstrap. And I tried to get one from Rescomp years ago but they would not even return my e-mail after I discussed it with them at SHOT.

 

[1KPerDay]

If you still need the bump enlarged, I would try it with a glued on piece of leather or hard rubber. If it works, here is what it can be made to look like:
http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/h...E-471C-89FF-3C73E95A016E_zps7zebdqzk.jpg.html

Thanks. Looks a little unorthodox but not bad. I'm surprised with all the 1911 hoopla the past decade that nobody offers a superbump beavertail as an aftermarket option.

If anyone uses that name you have to send me a quarter.

 

[1KPerDay]

has anyone here pinned their GS? The first 1911 I ever shot (at 12 years old) had a pinned GS.

I read somewhere about a vertical hole drilled into the bottom of the GS, and into the top of the MSH. And then as you install the MSH you just insert the pin, depress the GS, and line up the MSH hole/pin and finish as usual.

I understand all the potential legal issues so don't bother. but this method seems a bit more elegant than drilling the frame for a horizontal pin, or welding up the GS hump.

I guess I'll try taking the rear section of the TS down a bit and see if that helps first. It's pretty though and I hesitate to mess with it.

 

[rcmodel]

You and this guy need to get together and work out a trade!!

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=791994

rc

 

[JTQ]

4thPointOfContact wrote,
If I recall, there is a mfg that has a backstrap replacement that eliminates the grip safety,

You may be thinking of Novak's "Answer". http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=200395

 

[Drail]

Two choices - adjust the release point of the grip safety to release with very little movement - or just pin the stupid thing down. Most of the manufacturers will only give you all the parts to make a functioning grip safety - and do no fitting or testing to see if it actually works properly and sell you a "high ride" GS to go with it. So you end up with lots of guns that can barely be fired by most hands without chicken choking the grip. Having your hand ride high on the frame is a good thing but if you are pressing the GS just on the top - it is not going to pivot in and release the trigger bow.

 

[Walkalong]

Google Novak's "the answer". Another option.

 

[Steve C]

Lot of 1911 shooters used to pin the grip safety to off or strap it down so it is always disengaged. Its really a pretty worthless safety feature in modern times and was added to the original pistol by the war department so cavalry men could retrieve the pistol more safely if it was let go if they needed 2 hands to handle their mount and was dangling from its lanyard while cocked.

Unless the grip safety functionality is required by rules of some game being played I would simply disable the grip safety if I was having the OP's problems with it.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Its really a pretty worthless safety feature in modern times and was added to the original pistol by the war department so cavalry men could retrieve the pistol more safely if it was let go if they needed 2 hands to handle their mount and was dangling from its lanyard while cocked.

I'm never quite sure where this misinformation originates, but this version really stands out as it is the complete opposite of the origin of the safeties on the 1911.

The Grip Safety was part of Browning's design. The Thumb Safety was not.

The Thumb Safety was added to the original design by the Army Board so that cavalry soldiers could holster their guns safety, while riding, without endangering their mounts. After the action was over, the pistols would be cleared and the hammers lower on an empty chamber before holstering...with the thumb safety off

 

[Jim Watson]

The grip safety was added at the request of the Army in 1907. Those guns were based on the 1905 and have no resemblance to the 1911 besides the caliber. But all later developmental types kept the grip safety.

 

[Magnumite]

I generally use Zerodefect's methods except I relieve the thumb safety paddle up to original GI 1911 rear dimension. I also use a high hold high upswept grip safety adequately relieved at and to the front of the grip safety pin. Otherwise I get occasional grip safety not being deactivated when using thumb on safety grip.