As far as ammo, remember that the chambers are tapered - very similar to the M1 Carbine. The softer cased .32 S&WL, like the less expensive Magtech, will bulge. Higher pressure rounds, like the .32 H&RM, may even split - and shouldn't be used. Wear really good glasses with any non-7.62x38r Nagant ammo.
I modify .32-20 cases by thinning the rims and reducing the rim diameter, then sizing them in a Lee carbide M1 Carbine die before seating & crimping them with the remaining Lee Nagant dies (.32 S&WL). I loaded Meister .312" 100gr LDEWCs, crimping in the top crimp ring. They don't 'bridge the gap', so the cases, unlike the correct ammo, can fall out easily upon firing. That proper ammo's mouth expands, requiring the SA-like ejector rod's help in dislodging the empties. I've reloaded some of these shorter cases 5-6 times - so they last longer. The correct brass's fragile mouth sometimes splits when reloading it for the first time. There was an article in Dillon's 'Blue Press' monthly catalog on this .32-20 case approach some years back. Remember, that reversed, ie, convex, forcing cone launches 'stuff' when the BC gap isn't bridged by the case - wear good glasses!
Fun gun... great finger excercise. You can follow the disassembly instructions on Gunboards Nagant-specific sub-forum and clean & polish the innards. Re-arsenalling makes them pretty - but worsens that pull. An older model that hasn't been re-arsenaled generally will have a better trigger.
Stainz