Question for Old 12 guage Lee Loader

[Vacek]

This is not about the Load All. I have many of the rifle based Lee Loaders and have successfully used them for years. Lately I acquired a 12 guage Lee Loader. Here is my question. The Lee Loader was originally designed when paper hulls were the standard but in the early 60's the plastic hulls started becoming dominant. Lee reacted by designing and offering a crimp starter that helped for the new plastic hulls.

Regardless, where the old paper hulls are easily star crimped by hand pressure, I have found the I need to use the plastic hammer to get a good crimp on the 1 fired plastic hulls (Winchester AA). Here is the question. If I have drilled a countersunk hole in the wood so that the primer is never in contact with a solid surface while crimping by hammer, is there still a risk that the hammer crimping will cause the primer to go off?

 

[PedalBiker]

I had a lee loader for 30-06 and loaded a few hundred rounds with no incident. I still have it but I never use it.

I used to own a Lee Load All, and frankly I'd not even consider a hammer operated loader after using it (they're really pretty inexpensive compared to components). I'm not going back to hammer loading anything unless it's a last ditch option.

 

[FieroCDSP]

From your question, I have to assume the hole is larger than the primer, but smaller than the head of the case. My issue with safety would be the odds that something could get onto the wood under the primer and a mis-alignment of the case could result in a discharge. A guide (maybe a PVC or steel pipe piece?) nailed or securely glued to the wood would be a good thing to have to assure the primer is centered above the hole.

I don't see any reason it would be more difficult than that, but I'm curious as to why your're not just using the de-capping chamber like you're supposed to.

 

[FieroCDSP]

As a second-guess to my reply, forget the metal pipe and stick with a drilled out wood ring or plastic pipe. Contained explosions in a metal pipe are bad.

 

[SASS#23149]

Waaaaaaaaaaaay back when I 1st started on a 16 guage Lee Loader,we stood up and used body weight to 'set' the crimp.Paper shells tho.
Would this work in your case? I'd MUCH prefer doing that than hammering on a live shell.
AS I recall we could feel the crimp take a set ,don't think you could do that with a hammer.

 

[scout26]

I second getting a Load-All. You might be able to sell the Lee Loader for right around the price of used Load-All.

 

[Vacek]

To answer some of the questions. (1) Yes I make sure that the primer is not in contact with the wood. That is the reason for the countersunk hole. (2) I hammer the crimping tool, not the priming tool.

The primary concern then.... can concussion from the hammer in the process of crimping possibly cause the primer to go off?

I have tried hand pressure and it doesn't form a crimp. The hammer requires about 3-4 medium taps. What is medium? About the normal amount used to hammer in a finishing nail would be my best comparison. Definitely less than hammering in a 357 Magnum case into the die of a pistol Lee Loader.

I do have a Load All II but was curious how to reload with the original.

 

[fjlee]

I've used the 12 gauge Lee Loader for years.......both plastic and paper cases.

I know the crimp problem you speak of with plastic. I DO use the "crimp starter". Get the crimp started.

Then I use a bottle capper as an arbor press substitute, and gently apply pressure to the crimp ram. Once you get the "feel" for it, beautiful crimps are the norm......with very low effort.

Used bottle cappers are common at flea markets, etc.....for a buck or 2. Or use an arbor press, or a drill press.......etc.

Fj Lee

 

[scrat]

OKKKKK

here is another question. i just got a lee loader for both my 12 guage and my .410 guage. The main reason i went lee loader is the fact that lee does not offer anything else for the 410. However the kit i have does not have the plastic starter crimp. SOOOO how do i over come this. Whats the solution. then i am not too sure what you are talking about a bottle cap starter. are you talking about a regular bottle cap. What does that look like.

 

[Roswell 1847]

Awhile back the wife of a friend inherited a bunch of sporting equipment and a few antique shotguns.
Recently I saw a device at their kitchen that they'd been using as a nut cracker. The device looks to me like it may have been designed to reload shotgun shells.

There is a screw with large faucet type handle which advances what might be a plug meant to compress a wad over a load. It also looks like it might be meant to hold several different large diameter theaded loading dies.

I can't really describe it properly except that its a cast steel frame mounted horizontally on a thick wooden platform.

Does this sound familar?

It makes a great nut cracker but I suspect it was designed for something more precise.

 

[fjlee]

>>then i am not too sure what you are talking about a bottle cap starter. are >>you talking about a regular bottle cap. What does that look like.


The bottle capper I use was designed to seat the old style bottle caps like you usta PRY from a beer or soda bottle.

It looks like a real cheap arbor press, except that there is a little cup-like metal piece on the end of the "ram".....This cup-like piece is to accept the bottle cap just prior to pressing the cap into place on a bottle.

I also use this capper with centerfire rifle Lee Loaders. To neck size the brass, and to seat the bullet.

It doesn't have as much mechanical advantage as a "real" arbor press, but it's plenty good for taking the place of a mallet with the Lee Loader.

I assume you can still buy them new......at a brewery supply place. Mite be scary $$$$ tho.
FJ Lee

 

[scrat]

a faucet reamer thats a good idea. i think im going to get one and try it out.

 

[Vacek]

So, I am still wondering. Will the concussion from the mallet while forming the crimp possibly detonate the primer...even if the primer is not in contact with a surface?