Question for those who use Hoppes

[TheOutlawKid]

Well i have heard some folks say here that they use Hoppe's Plus for black powder as a patch lube and/or bore cleaner. Hoppe's makes two different liquids...one is labeled "black powder gun bore cleaner & patch lubricant" and it is a tan colored liquid. The other is labeled "black powder gun bore cleaner" and has the word "traditional" under it and it is a white liquid similar in color to "moose milk" (Ballistol and water mix). I know i have read some folks that state they use Hoppes as a patch lubricant with amazing results and from what i remember i THINK user "ArmouredFarmer" has said he uses it for accuracy in competition. Which one is the liquid used? both are bore cleaners and i have heard some say they use the "hoppes black powder bore cleaner" as the patch lube...but only one says patch lube? Does it make a difference? Are both bore cleaners but only one can be used for patches? What experiences have you all had using these Hoppe's brand black powder products? Here's a pic to show the difference...

 

[woodnbow]

I’ve used the one on the left. Tan liquid. It cleans really well and patched balls go downbore easily. Seems like a bother to use in the field so I went back to spit patches for the plinking and eezox patches for hunting.

 

[arcticap]

Even though the product and packaging has changed many times over the years, I don't think that it really matters which one is used.
I stocked up on some of the older cloudy stuff that needs to be shaken, but have only used it as a bore cleaner and for removing stubborn Pyrodex residue.

Hoppe's current website still claims that it's both a solvent and a patch lube even though it's not named Hoppe's 9 Plus anymore but simply No. 9 Black Powder. --->>> https://www.hoppes.com/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html

This thread describes the different batches that Hoppe's has made since the 1980's. --->>> https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/hoppes-labeling-change.117042/
Even though they're quite different, all of the batches work, and even the traditional flintlock shooters on ALR liked the clear stuff when it first came out.

 

[BullRunBear]

I've used the Hoppe's stuff as a patch lube for some years and it's the best I've found. The labels have changed but it has always been the thicker tan liquid. I don't use it to clean, just as a lube. Never ran across the moose milk type. Whether I precut the patches or cut at the muzzle, I pre-lube the patch material and keep it in a sandwich bag. It retains the lube properties for a couple of months. If it feels too dry, put a few drops in the bag, scrunch it around, and you're good to go.

Jeff

 

[Armored farmer]

The one I use saysv"patch lube" but when I ordered more I got bore cleaner.
I wasn't sure if it was my mistake or if the /patch lube was still available??

I had great results with the cleaner/patch lube.

 

[Captain*kirk]

I've used the Hoppes BP bore cleaner before. Dawn dish soap and water works better, to be honest. A lot cheaper, too.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I dont like using it as a cleaner...i prefer L.A. Totally Awesome as an all around black powder cleaner and corrosive primer cleaner...best stuff i have ever used. But im interested in how these two different Hoppes formulas work as a lube for patches...and which formula works best for what application. Is one older than the other? Did one replace another formula? Are they two different formulas released at the same time?

 

[Mike 56]

Why don't you try LA cleaner as a lube?

 

[Pete D.]

Make your own.....moose milk.....1/4 cup of Ballistol (or a good cutting oil), A capful of dishwashing liquid, a pint of water. Cleaner and lube.
One of a bazillion recipes for Moosemilk.

 

[flintlock hunter]

I'm an advocate of the old fashion hot soapy water, with a hot clean water bath to clear everything out once it's cleaned. I even go so far as to use a heat gun to be sure the water is evaporated in the bore. As for a patch lubricant, Wonder lube, or just plain olive oil both work great.

I started a few threads on other sites to find the best, most effective way to prevent rust and corrosion, but each has his own favorite. As for my perferred, it's Birchwood Casey Barricade. Not only does it stop rusting from taking place, but once it's dry there is no need of running a dry patch downbore to sop up any exess, since the dried perservative will NOT cause the fouling round to be out of the group. This effect has shown true on not only blackpowder arms, but moderns as well.