question on a slim jim holster

[ivankerley]

Hey all gonna be starting a slimjim holster for an 1860 for a friend, what weight leather would be ideal for this type of holster would 9-10 oz work or should i go heavier?
gonna have alot of art on it so obviously cant be too thin.
Any advice would be appreciated
Gene
PS is it acceptable on these to leave it open toe, noticed some have a toe plug or theyre stitched closed?

 

[Old Fuff]

Most of the originals were made out of very thin leather (5 to 6 oz.) by today's standards. If you look at those that are tooled the indentations are not very deep.

But I'm pretty sure this isn't what your friend expects, so 9 or 10 oz. might be a better choice even if isn’t isn't historically correct.

They also sometimes lined a holster with thin felt, green and red being the most popular colors.

Sewed toecaps or plugs were popular, as were ones made out of metal – a feature generally found on most saddle holsters; but open ends were not unheard of. Unless your friend is very knowledgeable in this field he won’t notice anything is different.

 

[rcmodel]

Go here for some early examples.

http://www.antiquearmsamericainc.com/AAA_WesternLeather.htm

They wouldn't be heavy 9-10 oz leather, and they wouldn't deeply carved or tools.

The original 'Slim Jim' was a cut-off civil war GI issue flap holster.

rc

 

[ivankerley]

thanks guys, historical accuracy isn't a must as he wants me to go to town on it in regards to the art. I've spent a lot of time staring at them online time to make one, welt or no welt?
thanks again
gene

 

[BSA1]

A sewed rounded toe was very common on Slim Jim holsters.

The book "Packing Iron" is the best pictorial guide for 19 and early 20th century holsters and belts. All serious leather and holster makers should have a copy.

 

[Old Fuff]

welt or no welt?

Not that it matters, but few if any of the originals had a welt. For the most part welts didn't come along until the 1920's.

 

[CraigC]

I use strictly 8-9oz and wouldn't go any heavier than 9-10oz. The toe can be open, stitched or it can have a stitched toe plug. Toe plugs are not easy to do and no one will blame you for doing an open toe. I personally don't like the way a stitched toe looks on the Slim Jim pattern but that's just my opinion.

You can go either way with welts. A welt will stiffen and strengthen the main seam. I've done them both ways but prefer to do a partial welt on this particular pattern, to about a third of the way down from the throat. It allows me to build them for a little better retention, as the triggerguard knuckles in.

 

[ivankerley]

I use strictly 8-9oz and wouldn't go any heavier than 9-10oz. The toe can be open, stitched or it can have a stitched toe plug. Toe plugs are not easy to do and no one will blame you for doing an open toe. I personally don't like the way a stitched toe looks on the Slim Jim pattern but that's just my opinion.

You can go either way with welts. A welt will stiffen and strengthen the main seam. I've done them both ways but prefer to do a partial welt on this particular pattern, to about a third of the way down from the throat. It allows me to build them for a little better retention, as the triggerguard knuckles in.

thanks Craig C! I was wondering about the plug, might be outside my current skill level and more hassle than its worth, i may do a welt or partial, feel better knowing i put it on there.
Appreciate the advice
Gene

 

[BCRider]

I'm hardly an expert on this but it seems to me that the use of the holster will determine the choice of open vs closed toe.

For a working holster which will be exposed to a lot of ground or water I'm thinking that a closed toe would be best since it'll be dragged and dipped more frequently as the wearer goes about their daily work.

For a weekend fun holster I'm thinking open toe so the stuff can fall out more easily instead of building up.

I'm also thinking that our heavier leather will hold the art work better. And as you're saying it won't be period correct in any case.

I've given this a fair amount of thought as I'm nearly to where I've got the time to make a twin holster rig to hold my Colt and Remington clone C&B guns for CAS events.

I'm liking Craig's idea of a partial welt to both stiffen the holster for easier drawing as well as let the trigger guard seat down more securely for gun stability when running between shooting positions. Mind you I'm also going to "cheat" a little by making the belt loop a little higher then on a traditional slim jim just so the gun doesn't need to brush my armpit to clear the lip of the opening with the long barrels. I'd like to see the heel of the stocks at or just a little higher than the top edge of my belt.

 

[ivankerley]

Thanks for the insight BC, since ive been told to get creative with the decoratin thatll necessitate me using something a little thicker... the holster will be used but i doubt itd be rode hard or anything, im gonna go open toe on it, the only thing i got left to do is tighten up my sketches and have at it
Gene