question on powder loads

[tom e gun]

so here's the situation... i have two new-to-me black powder firearms. first is a .50 caliber muzzleloader (percusson from ASM i believe) and the second an uberti walker repro. the only powder i have on hand to try out out in these fellas is a partial container of pyrodex p. i know this would probably work in these guns i am just not sure what amount to load. the only BP shooting i have done thus far was with my pietta 1860 army. any thoughts for starting loads for these guns using my existing powder? i have heard good things about some other brands and some true black, i would also welcome opinions on powders well suited for these as well. as usual i know you guys will swoop in to my rescue

(P.S. let me know if this is a topic thats beaten several dead horses elsewhere and i will politely get rid of it post haste)

 

[Loyalist Dave]

OK start with one grain of BP or substitute per caliber for the muzzleloader, which would be 50 grains. See how well it shoots, by trying conicals and patched round ball.

As for the Walker, most folks use less than the maximum loads and enjoy them very much. I would see if on Google you can find a manual from the manufacturer and download it. You will also get some responses from actual Walker users shortly, on this blog.

An important safety rule is to seat the projectile against the powder charge. Not too tough on a muzzleloader, but with a revolver, and light loads, some of the folks add a layer of grits or cornmeal between the powder and the ball to ensure good contact.

LD

 

[robhof]

Uberti has a pdf of their manuels on their site, ASM no longer exists, but any .50 rifle or pistol? of similiar style would have the same directions and care. If your 50 is a rifle, you need to get an idea of the rate of twist; usually 1/24, sabot only, 1/48 the most common works fair for all, and 1/60 or 66 for patched ball only. Insert ramrod with tight patch and tape a T cross piece on the end and note the amount of turn in the length of barrel, that'll give you a good idea of the rate.

 

[junkman_01]

OK start with one grain of BP or substitute per caliber for the muzzleloader, which would be 50 grains. See how well it shoots, by trying conicals and patched round ball.

If it is a rifle, Loyalist Dave's recommendation is correct. If it is a pistol, it is too much powder. Use 1/2 grain of powder per caliber for a pistol.

 

[Pancho]

I for one do not object to old subjects being revisited. Fortunately for us there is a constant supply of new members with new or at least different veiws of old situations.
To your load question I would add that you "work up a load" meaning that as L.D. said "one grain per cal." is a good starting point and that for a given projectile you should increase the powder in 5 gr. increments until accuracy and penetration plateau.
If you are intending to hunt with the rifle consider honestly your effective range (mine is 50 yards) and consider with equal importance accuracy and penetration.
Lastly, I would suggest that you keep notes. The large number of variables can get confusing.

 

[tom e gun]

thank you gentlemen, i appreciate the responses any recommendation for makeshift patches for the rifle? i just realized i didnt get any. i had a BP mentor of mine give me some kind of thin cloth material used for cutting patches off of on the fly (can't remember the name of it) but i misplaced it. tho i mind find it if i go root around in my car a bit now that i'm thinking about it... but if i can't find that, what else works well for patches that i might find around the house or at wal-mart or some other such store? i believe i have some larger sized cleaning patch/barrel swabs somewhere but i thought they might be a bit too thick. i don't really plan on hunting with the long gun, just some recreational flame spoutin'

 

[junkman_01]

Try a pillow case in a pinch for patch material. Make sure it it 100% cotton though.

 

[tom e gun]

i actually did go look in my car and found the material i mentioned above lol good to knpw aboit the pillow case though

 

[T Bran]

I would like to ask a question as well but dont want to hijack especially since yall have been so informative. I do think im on topic if not please inform me.
Is there a formula for the lightest load one can safely use in a replica hawken type rifle mine is a CVA .50 cal but I dont know the twist yet. Id like to down load it but dont want to stick a ball.
Thanks in advance.
T

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Regardless of twist in your CVA rifle, you can down load to barely enough powder to expell the ball. You will have to seat the ball on the powder under all circumstances. I frequently shoot 30 grain loads in a CVA perc frontier rifle in 50 cal. At 50 ft ranges it is just extremely pleasant and has almost no recoil. (It is why I start beginners out on that gun with that load.) A fast twist gun will shoot PRB's with acceptable accuracy at low speeds produced by minimal loads. Accuracy goes to heck at the high speed loads.

Why don't you just measure the twist? use a tight patch on the jag, and measure the number of times, (or fraction thereof) that the ramrod spins around as you push the rod down. (You need to let it spin with the rifling. If it only goes a third of the way round in the 28 inch barrel, the twist is 3x28 or 1 in 84, or a slow round ball barrel. If it spins completely around once in a 28 inch barrel, then it is 1 in 28, a fast twist bullet barrel.

 

[T Bran]

ZIMMERSTUTZEN
Thank you for the load info I really like BP shooting and this will help me do more of it economically since I will start casting my own RB this winter. I have a lot of .22 slugs to melt down from my bullet trap. If I shoot very low velocity BP loads ill shoot into the same trap and can continue melting down the balls for reuse it will make for very economical practice.
T

 

[Pancho]

100% cotton is a needed and it's not that easy to find. A simple test is to burn a small patch in a spoon. the result, if it is cotton, will be a fine gray powdery ash. If it is any type of blend the ash will come out black and shiny.

 

[mykeal]

Yes, 100% cotton only. Get the tightest weave possible. Pillow ticking is the best, denim will work. If you get 'virgin' material, that is, it's not already been made into a pillow case or clothing, it must be washed before use as it will contain a starch-like material called sizing.

A good alternative if the stores don't carry any of the above is skivvies. Yep, your boxers or briefs are all cotton and a dense weave...