Questions about Hornady headspace gauge

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How much additional length do the gauge parts add to the length of a cartridge case?

hk66.jpg

Has anyone tried using this gauge with a micrometer instead of a caliper? Is that even practical? If so, what size mic do you use?

Thanks!
 
How much additional length do the gauge parts add to the length of a cartridge case?
None because you would zero your calipers with the tool installed and calipers closed.

Has anyone tried using this gauge with a micrometer instead of a caliper?
Do they make Mics that long? Sorry but I haven't seen any.

The instructions tell you exactly how to do it when you buy one.

Here is a link demoing its use.
http://www.inlandshooters.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99&sid=fd1cb67fa27b2917dcd74ed0a29fd314
 
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Starrett makes micrometers that go to several inches. Basically you buy either a 0"-4" set or 0" to 6" set of either four or six micrometers. But I don't think they are cost effective for the use. Way too expensive to use only occasionally.
 
TexasShooter
I don't know how you would afix them to a mic since theu are designed to clamp to the jaws of the caliper.

MYKE
Yes they do have micrometers that size and larger.
 
I use a micrometer with the Sinclair bullet comparator #1 & #2 on a base stand very similar to the one in Larry Willis's photo below. I just pick one of the holes that will fit over the shoulder case and measure on the Dial indicator & base stand. Because the Sinclair comparators are machined, you get a good surface to measure from. I measure before the bullet is seated so it would not be in the way. I can also use the same set up to measure seating depth of the bullets by using the ogive of the bullet. I don't use tip measurement except to match my magazine fit length.
Larry's setup would be the most reasonable piece with out putting it together your self, he is a member here and would be glad to explain his setup if you contact him.

Jimmy K


http://www.larrywillis.com/

COAD-06SM.jpg

09-700_a-t.jpg


Mine "kinda" looks like this Photoshopped Photo:
220bbfff.jpg
 
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jimkirk .....

Nice job with Photoshop. However, our Digital Headspace Gauge doesn't require the "extra" hex tool shown in your modified picture. It can read the case shoulder and the bullet ogive by adjusting the V-block. Let me know if you have questions.

- Innovative
 
Larry
I use a micrometer with the Sinclair bullet comparator #1 & #2 on a base stand very similar to the one in Larry Willis's photo below

I built mine long long ago(20-25 yrs.) using the base, and indicators I got from an Uncle. I first used plain old hex nuts with drilled holes, then I found the Sinclair hex nuts 8-10 yrs. ago(time escapes me). Mine works on the same principal as your's, only I have to flip the nut to fit the shoulder instead of adjusting the pins like yours. Likewise I can do both shoulders and bullets with the hex.

I have no questions, but I thought others may, so that is the reason I posted a link to your site. It would be cheaper to purchase your setup rather than piece meal a setup together like I did. I did not know you back when, so I put my own together.

But I did put a plug in for you and your site as I think your product would work fine.

I didn't mean to change the way your product looked, only to so how mine looks(similar)and works.

I work with Photoshop all the time... that was a 4-5 min quickie at best. I didn't want to dig mine out and take a photo.

Jimmy K
 
Would it be uncommon for the die to be screwed in so far as to push on the shell holders in order to achieve the desired bump back on the shoulder? I am using a Forester press to resize .223 LC brass with a Forester FL die and it just seems the die should not be pushing into the shell holders to bump .002 back. Matt S
 
Schwabee1 ........

Is it common? Yes. I see shooters almost one per week that has handloads that are either too tight or they have a headspace separation. Those shooters usually just bump the shellholder into the die.

If you don't measure your chamber clearance (at the shoulder) you'll only be guessing. The correct shoulder setback depends on YOUR particular chamber and YOUR particular FL die and YOUR die height. It's best to measure and be sure. Too little clearance and your handloads won't chamber, too much clearance and you'll get headspace separation sooner or later.

- Innovative
 
I have used the Sinclair "nut" for years and it works fine. The old Stoney Ponit (Now Hornady tool works great as well. I am sure Innovative's fancy tool works great as well.

I was bored not long ago and made a gauge to check the shoulder on .223. I cut it for a 23 degree case, but it should work on others. I am going to make one for .308 next time I get bored.

It doesn't have to be anything special to get a measurement.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=504759

As long as your chamber is OK, you can use a case gauge and set up your sizer.
 
Should I remove a 1/16 or so from the bottom of the sizing die so that it does not force its way down into the shell holders? Matt S.
 
Schwabee1 .........

Definitely not. You'll just ruin your die. The die instructions tell you that FL dies are designed to bump your shellholder. They do that to ensure your handloads will fit in ANY chamber of a specific caliber.

Die manufacturors obviously have no way to know the "exact" size of YOUR particular chamber or YOUR particular die. So ......they need to make resizing dies bump the shoulder to make handloads fit in the smallest chamber possible.

Handloads need to be better than factory loads. Why? ........ because factory loads just need to fire each case ONE time, and the brass will easily stretch (one time) to fit your chamber without any problems. However, handloads reuse the brass over and over. If there is any excessive clearance (at the shoulder), your cases will stretch and weaken until they eventually crack.
[Excessive = more than .002"]

Excessive chamber clearance is what causes headspace separation. Why guess at reloading? Measure your chamber clearance at the shoulder, and make the best handloads possible.

- Innovative
 
Schwabee
There should not be a problem with your die touching the jaws of the shellholder. I guess I should ask if you're using the auto-universal jaws on the Forster or the regular type shellholders. If your dies are not fitting down into the recessed area of the universal jaws, then it would be OK to bevel the outside edge of the die. I would not take any off the bottom end of the die unless I absolutely had to, but it can be done and I have done myself with out any problem. You need to make sure you grind the die level and as smooth as you can, but I don't think you will need to do that unless you have a very small(short) chamber.

You really don't need any fancy tools to measure your chamber, just a candle. Simply smut your sized case and chamber it to see where it(the smut) is wiped off. By varying the sized length and watching the smut removal, you can measure exactly where to set your die so the case fits your chamber. You can check the seating length of bullets the same way. Smut the bullet, chamber it, look to see if the smut has been wiped off and adjust until you get the OAL just right, of course you have to deal with magazine length too.

I should add that the auto jaws are not different than the other type shell holders as far as contact, they are the same thickness as the regular shell holders are. Treat them the same as far as touching...slight or tight.

Jimmy K
 
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Excessive chamber clearance is what causes headspace separation. Why guess at reloading? Measure your chamber clearance at the shoulder, and make the best handloads possible.

- Innovative
I couldn't agree more if you are reloading for one gun and the ammo won't be used in other guns. That is the best way to do it. Any way you measure it is fine.

If you just want to make sure your ammo meets SAMMI specs and will safefly fire in any gun of that caliber that has a chamber within SAMMI spec, all you need to do is buy a case gauge and set your sizer up using it.
 
Walkalong ..........

The only thing about case gauges is that you need one for each different caliber. They assure your handloads are "somewhere within" SAAMI spec, but what if your rifle isn't within SAAMI spec? I prefer to "measure" the difference between MY handloads and MY particular chamber.

Example: If your chamber clearance is .006" (at the shoulder) that's within SAAMI spec. If your handloads are measured, and your die height is set to give you .002" clearance (at the shoulder), that reduces your case stretching - by over 60% at every firing and every loading.

Another Example: I have (3) different .308 Win. rifles, and all of those chambers are within SAAMI spec. Each chamber is slightly different (at the shoulder). I can load specifically for each rifle - OR - just load for the shortest chamber (at the shoulder) for compatability.

- Innovative
 
Isn't that what I said?

Anyway, address the OP, not me. I could care less about which way he does it. More than one way to skin a cat. Naturally, you like your way. Most sales people do. :)
 
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There are no sales people here. I'm the shooter that designed (and patented) two unique (and very popular) reloading tools. I also wrote our website that is 95% devoted to products made by other companies.

I agree that there are cheaper ways to reload. However, my interest here was to explain that there are greater advantages to "measuring" your handloads.

- Innovative
 
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