Questions about loading the 40 S&W

[Kcustom45]

My girlfriend recently bought a Springfield XD-40 and I would like to start doing some reloading for her. My question is would it be safe to shoot reloads from a XD-40?
In every reloading manual I have read there has been an asterisk next to 40SW saying that if you don't have a supported barrel...it could be dangerous. Does any one out there reload for this type of gun? I am thinking that if I am a little conservative I should be all right, but I don't want to risk hurting the gun...or her. If she asks I mentioned her first ok.
Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Khornet]

Reloading the .40

This issue came up because some .40s, notably Glocks, have feed ramp so configured that a portion of the cartridge base is not surrounded fully by the chamber. This shape makes feeding more reliable, I guess. Certainly my G22 never misfeeds. Anyway, you will sometimes see a bulge in the fired case corresponding to this 'unsupported' area, and most case failures in .40 are attributed to this.

That said, careful reloading of just about any .40 is perfectly safe. This is a cartridge operating close to its max pressure, so one must A) not push the load, trying to make +P out of it, and B) pay close attention to OAL, as a too-deeply seated bullet raises pressure sharply. A good tight crimp to guard against bullet set-back during chambering is a good idea--seat and crimp separately. Chamber a few loads and recheck OAL to be sure. Don't re-use brass too many times; you can reload 45ACP until it fails and all you get is a little split in the case but .40 is said to be more dramatic.

Tamara has a nice photo from TFL comparing degree of 'unsupporteddness' of various pistols, and it sure doesn't look like such a big deal to me. I shoot nuthin' but handloads in my G22 with no problems, and you can too if you're meticulous.

 

[Zero]

Go Ahead, reload within Specs

There's no reason you can't reload for the XD. If you reload within the specs givin in most reloading manuals, you'll be just fine. Despite what everyone says, i've managed to shoot thousands of reloads through my glock and guess what, it hasn't blown up yet. Accidents happen from poor reloading practices, plain and simple. There is nothing inherent in reloads that is more dangerous "if" proper care and techniques are used. Don't go over the max loads, in fact for plinking, stay somewhere in the middle, and crimp good, so the bullets don't get set back...

 

[WESHOOT2]

HIGHLY RECOMMEND

A medium-rate powder; I prefer Alliant Power Pistol.

A sufficient amount of cask neck tension.

A 180g Rainier TCJ-FP, at as long an OAL as reliable through your gun(s).

A good case. Doesn't have to be new (new is good), but should be able to resize (NOT roll-size or -sized) to dimensions that closely resemble new ammo. This, too, along with correctly matched bullet diameter and case neck ID, is what keeps the user safer from dramatic pressure excursions.

And as always, "when in doubt throw it out".

 

[duncan]

Depends on what she likes to shoot.

Hot or warm loads use Power Pistol, HS-6, AA#7, Longshot and the like.

Target rounds, W231, Universal, Titgroup, etc.

 

[duncan]

XD is fine like all has said.

Just be careful.

 

[tex_n_cal]

I don't own one now, but I've loaded for .40 Glocks.

The key with ANY autoloader is you MUST get a tight bullet fit in the case. A tight crimp by itself will not prevent bullet setback. Setback is where the bullet pushes deeper in the case, while feeding - it causes pressures to rise, sometimes with disasterous results.

On your die that expands the case mouth, make sure the expander is no larger than .395" in diameter, for a .400 dia bullet. This step, combined with a good crimp, will assure reliability and no unpleasant surprises.

Avoid Hornady dies - although I like their seating dies you can't remove the expander to turn it down smaller. I stick with RCBS or Redding for that reason.

Buy carbide dies, then avoid lubricating the inside of the cases. This step also will keep bullets tight in the neck.

Did I mention that oversize expanders are a pet peeve of mine?

 

[Kcustom45]

Thanks for all the info. I am looking for dies now as we speak. I am thinking about Lee Deluxe 4 die set, because I need a crimp die, I wish I didn't have to buy the Powder Through Expander Die since I don't need it. Oh well, anyone have any experience with these dies? I have Lee dies for my .44, but it didn't come with the crimp die and I bought a Dillon crimp die. They work fine for the 44 which is why I was thinking of them for the .40S&W.

I already have Universal Clays so that is what I am planing on using, unless there is some reason that I shouldn't use it. I was looking at the gun the other day and the cartridge is fully supported. That was one of the main things I was worried about, because of all the reloading manuals warnings. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Poohgyrr]

Hmmm, I'd sell that pistol and buy a .40 Hi Power. I've shot mainly handloads in mine without a problem.

(grins)

 

[Johnny Guest]

Good advice above - - -

About all I can add is a bit more powder/load information.

You say you have Hodgdon Universal--This is my favored powder in loading for my .40 High Power. The loder powder containers suggested 6.0 gr. with 180 jacketed bullets. CAUTION on this, please--On later labels, they dropped the charge suggestion. Don't have a new container handy, though I think it shows 5.5 gr. My Speer #12 manual lists 5.9 as max. I think I'd drop to 5.5 gr Universal and work cautiously up from there. (Later edit: On reflection, I withdraw that sugestion of starting at 5.5--It is within published data, all right, but why strain the pistol?)

The 180 gr. is a practical maximum weight bullet for the .40. Don't be tempted to use the 200 gr. bullets intended for the 10 mm-- They are really too long for the short case.

Dunno how well your lady friend tolerates recoil--Mine does fine wih the 180 loads. You might want to try the 155 to 165 gr bullets. Others have said it, but it bears repeating--Pay attention to COL, especially with the 180 bullets.

Best of luck--
Johnny

 

[bedlamite]

Johnny, That was what I started with in the 40s&w years ago. Even 5.5gr Universal is too hot for a 180, that load was 1080fps from my Beretta 96G, I pulled the rest of them. I've found 5.0-5.2gr Universal to be about the limit for 180gr, and it's just about 1000fps.

I use 6.0gr Universal under a 155 gr West Coast for IPSC, and it makes major with velocity to spare.

 

[Kcustom45]

Hmmm, I'd sell that pistol and buy a .40 Hi Power. I've shot mainly handloads in mine without a problem.

Ok anyone with something useful to say?

I just checked my Hodgden manual and it lists 5.8gr as the max for 180gr at a velocity of 1046fps. From what everyone else has said I am going to start around 5.0 and work my way up from there.

 

[Johnny Guest]

Cautious is GOOD.

Good remarks, bedlamite. I settled on 5.5 in my Browning, and it seems every bit as powerful as a variety of factory loads. I believe that next time I load .40, I'll back down to 5.0 and see what that does. I was too tired to dig out my chronograph records last night, and I don't have 'em here at the office.

I really don't care to run right up to the ragged edge on handloads, and the .40 is NOT one of those poofter cartridges. It was designed as a fairly high intensity round to begin with, and there's no percentage in trying to "better" factory velocities. If I want to shoot 10mm loads, I'll go find myself a 10mm pistol.

As for practice loads, If I can back off just a bit and still have bullet strike within an inch or so of factory, at 25 yards, I'm perfectly happy. Besides, the .40 has a reputation for being quite sensitive to COL-- Seat it a bit too deep, and pressures go WAY up.

Kcustom45, I believe you're on the right track. Let us know what kind of results you're getting.

Best,
Johnny