Questions about the S&W Model 325PD.

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Hey all, I got a couple of questions about the S&W Model 325PD.

I ended up impulse buying a used one a few days ago (it was priced at $350, total cost after tax & transfer fee was $408). Now that I have it a got some questions.

1. How do you add/remove the rounds from the moonclip? I'm not a revolver guy and this is the first revolver I've owned/handled that uses moonclips. Out of the 7 moonclips I got with the gun, 4 were already loaded with Federal 230gr Hydra-shock JHPs.

2. Any suggestions on a good leather OWB holster for this? I would like to open carry this while hiking and for me trips to AZ & NV.

3. What's the deal with the S&W ILS? The previous S&W revolver I've owned didn't have this and I was wondering if this is a good or bad thing.

4. Since it's used, should I send it back to S&W to have them give it a check up, get it tuned by the Performance Center and refinished?

Here's a pic of my, new to me, used S&W Model 325PD.
CIMG2367.png
 
Wow, that is a completely great deal! I'd have bought 2 at the price.

As for getting rounds into and out of the clips, I purchased a tool from Brownells that is very similar to the cut pipes people use. Helps leverage them in and out of the clips. Can't really describe it, but I believe they call it a de-mooning tool over on Brownells.
 
Great deal on a great gun!

For a leather OWB holster, I like the Simply Rugged pancake. It will hold it high and tight while hiking. With the light weight of the 325PD, you will find it a joy to carry.

For ammo, Black Hills makes 255 grain LSWC's in .45 Auto Rim that will make fine woods walking fodder. I believe Double Tap also makes a 255 gr. Auto Rim load. You don't have to use the moon clips for the Auto Rim.

If you handload, you can put together 255 LSWC loads in either ACP or Auto Rim that will serve you well in the woods.
 
If you handload, you can put together 255 LSWC loads in either ACP or Auto Rim that will serve you well in the woods.

Right on; my woods gun is a 625 carrying precisely those--but if I found a 325 for a price like yours, it would quickly displace the 625!
 
Nice steal of a deal. Being a dealer, I paid a lot more for mine. I took it to Front Sight training. With the moonclips and Bladetech Moonclip holders, I was just as fast as the guys with magazines. I was able to shoot about 165 rounds thru it before I had to retire it for the course. The light weight does significantly increase felt recoil. It is one of my primary carry pieces. Let me know if you hate it, Maybe I will have to trade ya something for it. haha.
 
Here's some thoughts. First, the finish looks fine to me. What's the problem? Small dings and scratches can be taken care of with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. Second, 325's tend to be very smooth. Instead of an action job, install a Wolff reduced power mainspring, a 13 or 14lb rebound spring, and a Cylinder&Slide extended firing pin. You'll be amazed. Third, with any action work you'll be limited to ammo with Federal primers. 45acp revolvers tend to have iffy ignition in D/A in stock configuration, and with any kind of lightening it's Feds or forget it. Fourth, if you're interested in S&W revolvers, here's where you should be looking http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums .
 
The best de-mooner in the world is a garage sale golf club handle. Pick out a bent golf club, cut off the head and most of the shank, trim the shank just a bit longer than the handle, then step-cut the open end of the steel tubing with a hacksaw or dremel tool. Deburr the cut end, slip it over the empty case or loaded cartridge, and twist. Rinse & repeat: voila! One empty moon clip.

For loading moon clips (at least for 325/625 revolvers), pick up a piece of 9/16" hex stock (brass or aluminum is best, steel will do) and cut it about a foot long. Lay your cartridges out in a straight line on a not-too-slippery surface - all facing the same direction. Slip the hex stock into the hole in the middle of the moon clip, grab the hex at each end, and start rolling - you'll be loaded in seconds. And your fingers will thank you - they won't hurt! :)
 
Since I am heading to Front Sight this weekend, I will be giving mine a workout. Or should I say, it will be working me out. haha, I will be bring my 625 as a backup of course.
 
S&W 325 PD Recoil Control and Ammo Thoughts

Congrats, you got an excellent deal on that revolver. I recently acquired a S&W 325PD and replaced the factory wood grips after the initial firing session with a pair of Pachmayr Compac grips. These conceal well and offer a firm and cushy grip on the revolver. These are the grips S&W plan to furnish on the soon to be released Night Guard 325.

I have two de-mooners, one a lightweight-weight synthetic "pliers" type as sold by any number of suppliers including Midway, Brownell's, Dillon and so forth. The other is an old, very compact steel half-moon shaped tool that fits on a key ring. It came with a low serial number S&W 1917 revolver that I have. Unfortunately I have not been able to locate a source for the latter tool which is just what the Dr ordered for field use.

As for ammunition, I fired several strings of ammunition types to find out what the lively little gun liked to digest. Because of the light weight and added recoil energy generated, I needed to know what cartridges would have the bullets "pulled" due to recoil.

I fired a strings of 5 rounds of CCI Blazer 230 grain FMC, then opened the action and compared the 6th round. I repeated several times and in all cases, the bulled had moved forward nearly 1/8th inch. I tried some hot hand loads with 200 grain Speer JHC and some +P commercial loads. The last cartridge's bullet had moved about 5/64 to 3/32 inch in the case. I next tried some light target loads I had made up for my Colt Lightweight Commander from a recipe I developed over 20 years ago based on 231 and Brock hard cast 185 grain SWC. The hand loads were assembled with a RCBS taper crimp die. None of these loads had any bullet movement. Also, I saw no movement with standard military hardball loads or with standard commercial loads assembled with brass cases.

Apparently, my revolver does not like ammunition made up with aluminum cases nor does it like hot loads which tend to "pull" the bullets, especially since auto pistol ammunition for the most part headspaces on the case mouth and therefore, lacks a crimping cannelure. Anyone using this lightweight should confirm for themselves what happens with various cartridges before carrying it for personal defense and base their selections accordingly. One thought...why use +P; this revolver is a .45 after all and standard loads are a proven man stopper and are easier to control for fast follow-up shots.

I plan to get some Auto Rim cases and work up some "field" loads for this puppy later on. These I can put a roll crimp on and use hard cast 200-230 grain bullets, since Auto Rims headspace on the case rims.

One additional thought...Galco makes a great pancake style holster called the Speed Master to carry this wonder. I use it paired with one of Galco's 1-1/2 inch wide double thickness gun belts under a very light weight and loose fitting fishing vest that I found on sale at Wal-Mart. This keeps the revolver up tight and from flopping around. The vest is loose enough that I can almost hide my Ruger Alaskan under it. I also came across some 1/3 moon clips so I can pack one of Galco's flat leather 2x2x2 ammo carriers on my belt and have 6 rounds available independent of the full moon clips that I also carry.
 
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