Questions on rebound springs

[RM]

Several questions on rebound springs:

1. Do only S&W revolvers use rebound springs, or do all revolvers use them?

2. Does the weight of rebound spring used in a revolver affect the trigger pull weight, or does it only affect the trigger return?

3. What is the advantage of using a lighter rebound spring?

Thank you!

 

[XavierBreath]

Using a lighter rebound spring does reduce trigger weight, but it also reduces the force applied to move the trigger forward for the next cycle.

It is far better to have a pro polish the action of a revolver to reduce friction and trigger pull than to do a "spring job" on one.

My 2 pesos

 

[Dienekes]

All DA revolvers use them--something has to return that trigger to its original position when trigger finger pressure is relaxed...

Weight of the rebound will matter in terms of DA trigger pull. You are working against that as well as the mainspring.

Self explanatory. Cutting springs on duty guns is a bad idea on general principles (practical and legal) but on your own guns it is your own lookout. The general rule of thumb is if you have positive return on the trigger in fast DA and can't tie the gun up in live fire, it is ok for you--as long as you are willing to accept any consequences. Some people think that if a little lighter is better, a lot lighter is a lot better. Not necessarily so!

I have done a certain amount of this, and lighted up S&W and Ruger DA revolvers for a couple of ladies with strength issues--but vewy, vewy carefully--and tested them thoroughly for reliability before turning them loose.

 

[dfariswheel]

To be technical not all revolvers use a rebound spring.
Only guns made to the S&W design actually have a part known as a rebound.

Other revolvers have a trigger return spring or some other spring action that powers the trigger return.

As example, the Colt Trooper Mark III/King Cobra have an actual trigger return spring. The Colt Python has a complicated system in which a long "Vee" leaf spring powers trigger return via an indirect method unique to the old Colt's.

 

[Standing Wolf]

I've been using lightened rebound springs in Smith & Wesson revolvers over 25 years now, usually successfully, sometimes with humbling results.

Years ago, friends and I simply chopped one to three coils from rebound springs, did the requisite cursing as we coaxed springs and slides back into place, and hoped for the best. We usually ended up with lighter trigger pulls; unfortunately, we sometimes ended up with triggers that didn't return.

By and bye, I discovered Wolff, which offered sets of both rebound springs and main springs. Trial and error with various weights of springs let me slick up Smith & Wesson actions with far better results and no more calls to Brownells or Smith & Wesson for replacement springs. Along the way, I noticed some rebound slides were rough-surfaced, so I began to stone and polish them. Some frames were rough, I noticed, so I began to stone and polish those, too, and experiment with assorted lubricants.

I know a fellow who achieves nothing short of miraculous results by bending main springs in just a certain way, though he occasionally has to replace main springs that break. Instead of shortening or replacing rebound springs with lighter versions, he carefully removes small amounts of steel from the outer surfaces. I've seen him reduce double action pulls from 13 to 8 pounds.

Nothing takes the place of working on hammer and sear engagements, assuming you know what you're doing. That said™, most people don't know what they're doing, and probably shouldn't fool around unless they're ready, willing, and able to buy replacement parts and turn them over to competent pistolsmiths.

I've never owned or shot a Smith & Wesson revolver with a Python single action trigger, but can assure you it's possible to come very close with enough time, pistolsmithing trickery, and patience.

 

[def4pos8]

Ruger's Redhawk action uses a single, coil spring as both main and trigger return spring.

I also have learned to use Wolff spring kits to improve the feel of my various K- and N-frame Smiths. EXTREMELY careful polishing of the rebound spring guide block can help too. I NEVER attempt to alter trigger/hammer engagement points as I know that I'm an amateur -- with thirty-five years of metal working experience.

I don't use the lightest rebound springs as this makes it too easy to "short stroke" the trigger and cause a delay and/or malfunction. I work on trigger technique almost nightly, even though this "upsets" the wife. I dry fire each of my handguns incessantly, building muscle memory and that elusive thing called "feel". I wear out snap caps. I have standardized on the 13lb rebound spring and Wolff's ribbed mainspring, always at maximum tension. This works for me. It may not for you.

If you start to experience light primer strikes, you either have to modify your trigger stroke (Yes, it's YOUR fault!) or go with a more powerful spring combination.

If you experiment beyond original parts, your life may depend on your actions.

 

[MountainBear]

"Nothing takes the place of working on hammer and sear engagements"

Unless you want to replace the hammer and trigger DO NOT mess with the engagements. From my experience, you can get an excellent trigger pull other ways...

Spring kits have a place, but are not an end all be all. There are places that can be professionally "enhanced" to improve the pull. I would suggest burnishing the springs before cutting off coils.