Quick 1911 question
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Reloadron
Contributing Member
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Chantix became my new best friend. Following countless attempts to end a 50 year smoking habit I resorted to Chantix. Some of the vivid dreams were nice.
Seriously, while I still "want" the occasional cigarette my wife and I have been smoke free for a year. I was the worse offender smoking in excess of a carton a week. Making it simple? Here in Ohio our combined tobacco cost exceeded $7,500 a year. Since we retired tanks of gas in the trucks last a month or more also. Anyway, yes, over $7,500 a year in cigarettes. Really stupid! Hell, that pays for an annual 2 week Caribbean cruise for both of us every winter with money left over for more gun stuff! Not to mention we both feel better and the house smells nice.
</ OFF TOPIC>
Ron
Chantix became my new best friend. Following countless attempts to end a 50 year smoking habit I resorted to Chantix. Some of the vivid dreams were nice.
Seriously, while I still "want" the occasional cigarette my wife and I have been smoke free for a year. I was the worse offender smoking in excess of a carton a week. Making it simple? Here in Ohio our combined tobacco cost exceeded $7,500 a year. Since we retired tanks of gas in the trucks last a month or more also. Anyway, yes, over $7,500 a year in cigarettes. Really stupid! Hell, that pays for an annual 2 week Caribbean cruise for both of us every winter with money left over for more gun stuff! Not to mention we both feel better and the house smells nice.</ OFF TOPIC>
Ron
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Yeah I hear y'all, my grandfather and I believe hers died from lung cancer. Fortunantely she smokes outside (I wouldn't tolerate inside). I know its a terrible compromise, but pretty much everything is. I buy fun gun stuff, and she does that.
As far as cost goes, 2 - 3 packs a week at ~ $6 = $624 - $936 per year. Which is about equal to or less than estimated gun stuff. I hope and pray that she can eventually quit.
Anyways, yes I know a 1911 is not a lego gun. I'll have the frame hand fitted from Caspian and do what I can. If I really feel like I need to, I'll have a competent 1911 armorer hand fit it. Yeah, cost will be higher than a factory gun, but it will be MY 1911, not SAI, RIA, Kimber, Sig Sauer, etc., custom serial number and all. However, a part here or there really makes spending a lot of money easy.
Great discussion!
@Reloadron, Congradulations for being free for a year!
As far as cost goes, 2 - 3 packs a week at ~ $6 = $624 - $936 per year. Which is about equal to or less than estimated gun stuff. I hope and pray that she can eventually quit.
Anyways, yes I know a 1911 is not a lego gun. I'll have the frame hand fitted from Caspian and do what I can. If I really feel like I need to, I'll have a competent 1911 armorer hand fit it. Yeah, cost will be higher than a factory gun, but it will be MY 1911, not SAI, RIA, Kimber, Sig Sauer, etc., custom serial number and all. However, a part here or there really makes spending a lot of money easy.
Great discussion!
@Reloadron, Congradulations for being free for a year!
I don't use the slide stop (yes, they're called a slide STOP on 1911s not slide RELEASE) on any semi auoto to release the slide. I want the same manual of arms and muscle memory for all pistols so I use the hand over slide release method.
Having the same manual of arms isn't a bad thing unless it's been demonstrated to cause a more serious issue than it prevents.
As for dropping the slide, it's standard practice clearing the weapon on turn in at the arms room. It happens a few thousand times in the guns service life. If a finely tuned competition gun can't tolerate it, then it goes to being too finely tuned for street or combat use. Accuracy in that regard is less important than shot placement.
And whatever it's called, yes, many makers intend for the gun to be released to chamber the weapon using the slide stop. What comes into question is whether a gun you have in rotation has instructions from the manufacturer to refrain from using it. Should that gun be in your rotation? They make plenty of them in different sizes. There's more an issue with having disparate guns, even too many, than dropping the slide on a duty grade shooter.
Goes to dry firing, too. Guns that can't take dropping the slide or can't be dry fired aren't guns that some of us own. The minor differences that make one incapable of it to gain some other benefit aren't worth it. It's far too delicate a carry piece then.
Once again, a competition race gun practice that only confuses the general shooting public pops up again.
As for dropping the slide, it's standard practice clearing the weapon on turn in at the arms room. It happens a few thousand times in the guns service life. If a finely tuned competition gun can't tolerate it, then it goes to being too finely tuned for street or combat use. Accuracy in that regard is less important than shot placement.
And whatever it's called, yes, many makers intend for the gun to be released to chamber the weapon using the slide stop. What comes into question is whether a gun you have in rotation has instructions from the manufacturer to refrain from using it. Should that gun be in your rotation? They make plenty of them in different sizes. There's more an issue with having disparate guns, even too many, than dropping the slide on a duty grade shooter.
Goes to dry firing, too. Guns that can't take dropping the slide or can't be dry fired aren't guns that some of us own. The minor differences that make one incapable of it to gain some other benefit aren't worth it. It's far too delicate a carry piece then.
Once again, a competition race gun practice that only confuses the general shooting public pops up again.
OilyPablo
Member
Interesting. Never had any issue with my 1911 slide stops. But on my Glock 20 my slide stop lever spring actually broke. I considered it a freak thing. Under magnification it looked like it was kinked somehow and actually yielded. When it failed the gun would hold open on each shot, and the first couple shots I thought I was hitting it with my hand somehow. Anyway it is a one piece unit with the spring end held captive with a bent ear of folded stamped sheet metal. So I replaced it with a LW slightly extended lever. WOW. I was quite amazed how much more friendly the lever is to activate yet way more positive engagement.
I honestly think the reason the overhand power stroke has become the de facto training method for slide manipulation is because the slide stop in the Glock is the weakest link in an otherwise very durable gun. As the Glock became so popular, to avoid constantly breaking the weak part, the power stroke became a workaround, and in typical Glock fashion it became a feature.
I've already linked the Larry Vickers video on how the slide stop works better for the Beretta 92, and in regards to MCMXI comment...
The checkering on the slide stop is on the top of the lever making it easier to use. If there wasn't any intention of using it in such a way, it would have been left smooth.
The Glocks should be GTG with slide stop levers.
If you put the frame together wrong you'll pinch the spring. The divot or fold now in the spring creates a "stress riser" then eventually the spring fails.
The SSL, trigger spring, take down spring, should be replaced on a Glock every once in a while to maintain 100% reliability. The recoil spring should be replaced as per the manuals rec.
If you put the frame together wrong you'll pinch the spring. The divot or fold now in the spring creates a "stress riser" then eventually the spring fails.
The SSL, trigger spring, take down spring, should be replaced on a Glock every once in a while to maintain 100% reliability. The recoil spring should be replaced as per the manuals rec.
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