Moparmike
Member
So is it a problem to lightly oil the slide grooves using Hoppes #9 oil? (not solvent)
Rail Grease
- Thread starter Hawaiian
- Start date
- Status
LynnKCircle
Member
(To Moparmike). From what I understand, Hoppes Oil is just about the same as baby oil without the perfume. It's a decent enough lubricant for 1950, but since today there are far better products that aren't terribly expensive, why not update?
clubsoda22
member
yeah, update. that free 1/2 oz sample of miltech lasts forever.
Moparmike
Member
Because its what came with my Hoppes cleaning kit, and neither my gunstore or Walmart sells anything better. I dont like using an aerosol to clean my guns, because it gets everywhere. (Ala CLP) And from what I have heard, RemOil (another aerosol) sucks.
Maybe I will just use some wheel-bearing grease.
Maybe I will just use some wheel-bearing grease.
AZ Jeff
Member
Moparmike--don't laugh about wheel bearing grease as a lube. It is one of several lubes the military used over the years on the M1 rifle, although it's not necessarily the top lube.
I use wheel bearing grease on my M1 on occassion, and have also used it on the slide rails of M1911's and other similar arms. Actually, wheel bearing grease, which is designed for high temp high pressure applications, is probably overkill for most firearm situations.
I use wheel bearing grease on my M1 on occassion, and have also used it on the slide rails of M1911's and other similar arms. Actually, wheel bearing grease, which is designed for high temp high pressure applications, is probably overkill for most firearm situations.
I've used several products for this purpose & have come to the conclusion that most are perfectly adequate. Some may be better than others, some may be cheaper. If you have some difficult-to-meet requirement, the super-dooper lube/oil/grease may be just the ticket. No need to agonize, IMO.
I have yet to find, however, the lube/oil/grease that can stand up to 5 day/week, 12 hour/day IWB carry in the Texas summer without a re-application. They all wear/wipe off and then rust if you don't watch it. Humidity & (my) perspiration are a killer on the finish in a few days' carry. I worry about finding the time to PM on a bi-weekly basis instead of the finding ultimate gun oil (which is gonna wear off by Wed anyway). Then...I can worry about chambering the rounds too many times, rotating carry ammo, and the rest.
Whatever you do, just be sure NEVER to cross the anti-WD-40 mafia.
I have yet to find, however, the lube/oil/grease that can stand up to 5 day/week, 12 hour/day IWB carry in the Texas summer without a re-application. They all wear/wipe off and then rust if you don't watch it. Humidity & (my) perspiration are a killer on the finish in a few days' carry. I worry about finding the time to PM on a bi-weekly basis instead of the finding ultimate gun oil (which is gonna wear off by Wed anyway). Then...I can worry about chambering the rounds too many times, rotating carry ammo, and the rest.
Whatever you do, just be sure NEVER to cross the anti-WD-40 mafia.
LynnKCircle
Member
Lubrication
I've used white lithium grease for decades with no problem. The only reason I switched to more expensive Tetra is that when used sparingly as you should, one tube lasts so long that price isn't an issue.
Actually, I still use it. When I'm done cleaning, I put a small coat on the exterior metal and then use a clean cloth to rub it clean. That seems to take care of corrosion when carrying in Houston summers. I only carry on weekends since my job has a no-no provision about carrying at work, but I think if I carried every day I probably would use the external grease once a week.
Thinking of that, someone once mentioned some sort of wax which is used by the NRA for long-term metal preservation in their museum. Has anyone tried using that on the outside of a carry pistol?
I've used white lithium grease for decades with no problem. The only reason I switched to more expensive Tetra is that when used sparingly as you should, one tube lasts so long that price isn't an issue.
Actually, I still use it. When I'm done cleaning, I put a small coat on the exterior metal and then use a clean cloth to rub it clean. That seems to take care of corrosion when carrying in Houston summers. I only carry on weekends since my job has a no-no provision about carrying at work, but I think if I carried every day I probably would use the external grease once a week.
Thinking of that, someone once mentioned some sort of wax which is used by the NRA for long-term metal preservation in their museum. Has anyone tried using that on the outside of a carry pistol?
obiwan1
Member
Tetra grease on the Beretta. Works great.
I've been experimenting with a product called "Gun Guard". LOVE IT!!! I've started using it on all my off duty guns. It dries completely dry and slick. They changed the name to "poly pro-tek gun-care" products. I use it as an all around lube.
I've been experimenting with a product called "Gun Guard". LOVE IT!!! I've started using it on all my off duty guns. It dries completely dry and slick. They changed the name to "poly pro-tek gun-care" products. I use it as an all around lube.
sm
member
.
Last edited:
dairycreek
Member
Ditto on Tetra-Gun grease !!
I have used it on the rails of all my autos for some time now. Gives the action a really smooth feel. Clean the guns reasonably often and no problem - ever! Good product IMHO. Good shooting
I have used it on the rails of all my autos for some time now. Gives the action a really smooth feel. Clean the guns reasonably often and no problem - ever! Good product IMHO. Good shooting
I just picked up a SIG P-220ST, The first all stainless handgun I've ever owned. In keeping with this thread I have always used Tetra for the slide rails. With stainless upper and lower should I be using something else to prevent galling? Thanks in Advance!
Folks you own it to yourselves to try Slide-Glide. I have not heard of anyone who has and gone back. This stuff was designed for IPSC shooters who shoot a LOT, often with dirty guns ( 
), some very tight, some very loose.
My CZ used to go for about 200 rounds before showing signs of trouble when using CLP. Using slide glide, I haven't cleaned it for about 600 rounds now and it runs like a dream. I do make sure that it has enough grease and that the trigger/hammer/sear parts are lubricated (teflon there) before I use it and thats it. It stays cleaner and shoots better then ever before.
For $3 a tub, you just have to try this stuff.
Loch
), some very tight, some very loose. My CZ used to go for about 200 rounds before showing signs of trouble when using CLP. Using slide glide, I haven't cleaned it for about 600 rounds now and it runs like a dream. I do make sure that it has enough grease and that the trigger/hammer/sear parts are lubricated (teflon there) before I use it and thats it. It stays cleaner and shoots better then ever before.
For $3 a tub, you just have to try this stuff.
Loch
AZ Jeff
Member
sigman4rt wrote: "I just picked up a SIG P-220ST, The first all stainless handgun I've ever owned. In keeping with this thread I have always used Tetra for the slide rails. With stainless upper and lower should I be using something else to prevent galling? Thanks in Advance!"
Modern Stainless Steel firearms have pretty much eliminated the galling issue seen in the earlier products. I would expect SIG to have chosen alloys by now that make galling a thing of the past.
Modern Stainless Steel firearms have pretty much eliminated the galling issue seen in the earlier products. I would expect SIG to have chosen alloys by now that make galling a thing of the past.
Chris Rhines
Member
Sean -
The link you posted doesn't really include any reasons to use oil over grease. Oil attracts dust and grit to the same extent that grease does, and most oils are subject to the same increase in viscosity with reduced temperature.
I stand by my previous statement.
- Chris
The link you posted doesn't really include any reasons to use oil over grease. Oil attracts dust and grit to the same extent that grease does, and most oils are subject to the same increase in viscosity with reduced temperature.
I stand by my previous statement.
- Chris
- Status
