Ram rod length

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bratch

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I purchased an older used CVA Optima a couple months ago. After messing around with it I realized the ramrod was not threaded for any attachments so I ordered a cut to fit rod. The instructions were to drop it in the barrel and cut flush. I did so and now have a ramrod longer than the barrel.

Original rod
8B300AA6-0F32-47A9-AAED-346B968A90CB.jpeg

Cut “flush” with the barrel
3380D3C7-16A6-42DA-9E1D-ECC43CC51CD1.jpeg
New cut rod
CE719DA9-0CF1-4EAA-A96E-87FFA6B536A3.jpeg

Should I cut the new rod to match the original length, cut it back part way, or leave it hanging past the muzzle a couple inches?
 
I purchased an older used CVA Optima a couple months ago. After messing around with it I realized the ramrod was not threaded for any attachments so I ordered a cut to fit rod. The instructions were to drop it in the barrel and cut flush. I did so and now have a ramrod longer than the barrel.

Original rod
View attachment 1062285

Cut “flush” with the barrel
View attachment 1062286
New cut rod
View attachment 1062287

Should I cut the new rod to match the original length, cut it back part way, or leave it hanging past the muzzle a couple inches?
I have no experience with modern inlines, however as with traditional muzzleloaders the rod sticking out that far shouldn't be an issue other than you'll probably have to clean the exposed end of the rod quite often. You could probably take say a half inch off if it bothers you that much. Before you cut you may want to check down the ramrod channel to make sure nothing is stuck down there first.
 
I have no experience with modern inlines, however as with traditional muzzleloaders the rod sticking out that far shouldn't be an issue other than you'll probably have to clean the exposed end of the rod quite often. You could probably take say a half inch off if it bothers you that much. Before you cut you may want to check down the ramrod channel to make sure nothing is stuck down there first.

I’ve had the forearm off and all is clear. You can see how far forward the receiver is from the breech causing the difference. It took me a minute to realize this as I thought it might be blocked as well.

I guess the picture doesn’t show it real well. The back of the forearm is basically the hinge in the receiver.

The simplest solution is just to thread the original rod. Do you have a set of threading dies?

Cutting the new rod to the same length would probably be easier, cut takes about 30 seconds with a hacksaw.
 
A ramrod needs to be long enough to seat the bullet firmly on the powder charge. It also needs to be long enough to hold comfortably while you seat the bullet. If it is too short there is the danger of leaving an air space between the bullet and charge. The best way imho is to load your normal load and mark the ramrod at the muzzle, add what you need to hold and cut off the rest.
 
There is no need for the ramrod to reach the bottom of the barrel.
Cleaning rod yes, ramrod no.
The ramrod only needs to seat the projectile firmly on the charge which would likely make the rod in the neighborhood of 2 inches shorter depending on your actual charge.
Some extra rod could make loading easier though, but as you found out, kind of awkward when mounted on the rifle.
I would suggest having 2 rods, one longer for the range that you don't mount to the rifle, and a shorter rod that you mount to the rifle for actual hunting use in the field.
Load with the longer rod before you head out and leave it behind.
If you need a follow up shot in the field, you have the basics to do that with the shorter rod.
 
The idea of a longer rod, is to keep from placing the palm of your hand on top of the ramrod, when seating a bullet/ball. An accidental discharge may push the rod thru your hand. This is what I was told, many years ago. Never heard of it happening.

Seating the ball on top of the powder charge is more important. . Never want any air space between bullet & powder.

I have 2 rods, as said above.

Can stock be drilled deeper
I would not drill.
 
Thanks everyone.

I did order a longer range rod when I ordered this one. Once I get a load worked up I’ll measure against a seated bullet and go from there on my cuts and lengths.
 
I would suggest having 2 rods, one longer for the range that you don't mount to the rifle, and a shorter rod that you mount to the rifle for actual hunting use in the field.
An old idea is new again. In the Balkans, during the flintlock era, they carried the ramrods separately from their pistols. (I've seen combination scabbards carrying a yataghan short sword and pistol ramrod. Other times, the pistol ramrod was carried on a thong around the neck.) The pistol itself would have a dummy ramrod carved out of the stock, or else a dummy ramrod as part of a silver shroud around the barrel.
 
My preference is to have the rod an inch or so longer than the bbl. If your unfortunate enough to ever stick one in the bbl you will appreciate the bit sticking out, and may well wish for a bit more.
Been doin that for a way long time and i like the results.
 
Hello bratch,

I always use a Range Rod (48") while at the shooting range.
When hunting, I bring the Range Rod along in the truck,
just in case I have issues and need the longer rod.

AntiqueSledMan.
 
Make sure that it is not loaded .the amount of rod sticking out looks oddly the length of a few pellets and projectile! Take out breech plug and check.
 
Dies are meant for a outside diameter thread, a tap for inside, so you'll need the proper sized tap. All my ramrods are a hand length longer than the bore. As said, it helps keep your hand off the top of the rod when loading, gives you something to grab when cleaning or just pulling it out after a projectile is pushed down, and something to mark when a load is established. If you don't want it longer when hunting a extension piece can be made up to screw into the end of the ramrod. And that can also have a hole tapped for cleaning attachments or ball pullers.
 
Make sure that it is not loaded .the amount of rod sticking out looks oddly the length of a few pellets and projectile! Take out breech plug and check.

Ive had the plug out for cleaning and verified unloaded. Thanks for the suggestion
 
A longer rod will be easier to use in cold weather, especially for a quick follow up shot for winter hunting. I've seen them 3 ways depending upon the manufacturer. CVA is 1/2 inch under the muzzle, Lyman's are flush or slightly under and Thompson Center is 1/2" past the muzzle. I prefer the TC method for winter deer hunting.
Another consideration is CVA's thimbles are very tight making the ram rod hard to remove. On a kit gun, I intentionally made an extended rod for that very reason.
 
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Another thought, wood ramrods are preferred. Steel or fiberglass rods will wear the muzzle so accuracy will go down. If the rod is tight in the thimbles you can sand or scrap them to a smaller diameter. Back in the day sand paper wasn't used so a gunsmith would scrap. Hold a sharp knife blade perpendicular to the wood and push or pull it. Fine shavings will come off. I usually push the rod in till it binds up, twist it a couple if times and pull it out. There'll be some shinny spots that need to be removed. No it over and over till your satisfied.
 
Of course on the tight thimbles, there wasn't enough metal to open up the holes, so I replaced them entirely by cutting up a couple of .30.06 cases and making my own thimbles. A little JB Weld holds them in place. The problem was that if I went to a thinner rod, no one makes them with threaded ends when one gets down to 1/4 inch dia. rods. 3/8 inch rods work real nice on a .45 cal. CVA.
 
I prefer the delrin rods that Track of the Wolf sells, they don't seem to abrade the muzzle, rather the muzzle will peel a tiny bit off the rod if the rifling is sharp.
 
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