Range Brass ?

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ferggie

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I am purchasing 5000 rounds of 45 APC brass from an indoor range. I would appreciate any help that would let me know which brass (head stamp) I should stay away from for reloading.

Thanks
 
Any time I purchased miscellaneous range brass in bulk, I would typically end up with about half to two-thirds of it that is good and workable. The others either had the wrong primers for reloading or were in some way not worth processing for reloading (cracks, loose primer pockets, primers already fallen out, etc).

Your mileage may vary.
 
I go to the range and pick my own :D

Inspect the brass, from what I've been reading for the last few months, .45ACP is pretty forgiving. It's a low pressure round, just double check the primer type and do the regular inspecties.
 
I suspect that your major issue is going to be the need to sort the brass by primer size. After that maybe 2% will have to be trashed due to physical defects that will be readily apparent. You're going to be left with a huge pile of brass you'll be hard pressed to utilize.
 
The small primer brass is a PITA, and there seems to be more of it all the time.

I just set it aside in the sorting/inspection process and then load it when I've accumulated a couple hundred pieces. It's still a pain, but I just can't bring myself to throw away otherwise good brass.
 
From what others here have said Amerc brass is junk deep six it asap. From personal experience S&B brass primer pockets are tight and might have to be swaged. I've not run into the newer NT brass that use a small primer but if I got a sufficient amount I'd reload it.
Dents can be straightened out unless the case is almost crushed. Can't say I've had a 45 acp case split on me and I've been reloading for the better part of 40n years.
The only real problem I see you having is after examining 5000 45 case your eyes may tend to glaze over a bit.
 
In addition to the AMERC mentioned, I've found that the RWS brass has really tight primer pockets as well. It's nice brass, but primer seating can sometimes be challenging. Since my pick-ups find very few of them, I toss them along with any other headstamps in low quantities.

Since I also load 9mm, I don't have an issue with the small primer brass I pick up. It's separated from the rest at the completion of tumbling and chances are 90% or more that it's once fired when I pick it up.
 
I've found at local ranges that the majority of the discarded brass, collected and sold by the range, was discarded for a reason. It's past its useful life.

Unless the range caters to a lot of public shooters that use only new ammo and let it lie when they're done, you end up just getting others junk.
 
You might plan on making several passes on separating the brass. First pass might be small/large primer as well as separating by head stamps from major manufacturers that you are familiar with and from the manufacturers you are less familiar with.

The second pass on the unfamiliar head stamp pile would be to separate by head stamp.

AMERC brass, as said, should be tossed out of hand. The other unfamiliar head stamps, try running them through your sizer and expander dies. No problems, good brass. Problems, particularly with the brass fitting the shell holder, set aside and decide if it is worth fooling with the problematic brass.

If you spend the time inspecting up front, it will be less frustrating later avoiding trying to load problematic brass.

Generally, I have stopped picking up range brass for similar reasons as amlevin said. I do on occasion buy once fired brass but I prefer new brass or brass from ammunition I purchased.
 
indoor range

(I've found at local ranges that the majority of the discarded brass, collected and sold by the range, was discarded for a reason. It's past its useful life.

Unless the range caters to a lot of public shooters that use only new ammo and let it lie when they're done, you end up just getting others junk.
)

This brass is from an indoor range and the majority of the shooters don't reload so the majority of the brass is shot once factory loads.
 
Fact is, that with the .45ACP, it really doesn't matter whether the brass has been used once or 100 times as long as the case hasn't been stepped on too badly. Case splits are rare because a light taper crimp is the norm. The round is low pressure, even with fairly hot loads. Most reloaders don't "discard" brass at the range, unless it's the rare obviously squashed case. Otherwise you have to clean them and run through a sizing die before you can make a good determination as to their usefulness. A good sizer and expander can iron out a multitude of sins.
 
Have almost finished nearly 2K rounds of 45 from range brass. Have not found one bad case. Did find some hard to remove clay like material in a few. Not a small primer pocket in the lot.
 
Amerc, WC/WCC and S&B are not on my 'keepers' list.
Any headstamp other than recognized commercial brands I also put in my recycle bin ($2/lb or more) , because I pick up enough of the name-brands that I can be choosy.
 
I've found at local ranges that the majority of the discarded brass, collected and sold by the range, was discarded for a reason. It's past its useful life.

Unless the range caters to a lot of public shooters that use only new ammo and let it lie when they're done, you end up just getting others junk.
My .45 collection of brass has grown considerably due to the "Public" leaving their Winchester White Box brass lay all over the floor. It's easy..."Sir..do you want your brass?" "No?...Well thank you...I would love to collect it!" I even have the range officers bringing me 45 brass! I guess I have a reputation of being a brass whore.

There was a guy firing off some quality Hornandy .223 ammo..and at a pretty fast pace! I was standing at the ejection side just waiting for the empties to fly my way! I collected over 200 cases in his little flurry of range practice. Now...I don't load .223 yet..but when I feel the need...I will have tons of brass to start that venture. Collecting spent cases is like buying 1911's. Kind of like crack!
 
06,
That hard to remove clay like material is likely rain-dissolved clay that settled and dried in the cases. When you see some of these, it's best to soak the whole batch in a little soap and water, soak and swoosh around. Then dry. Then tumble.
 
I'm finding more and more SPP cases. Seems most are Fed. At least they're worth a buck per pound as scrap.
 
I collect all cases that ARE reloadable... I even collect cases I do not shoot. Who knows when I can make a trade or later need the unused brass..

I had collected 2,500 to 3,000 .223 cases over the years. I figureed some day, I would have a .223. Low and behold, I just bought my first AR-15.. It does not take up much space..
 
chtr396:"I guess I have a reputation of being a brass whore."

It not a BAD thing.... I got that rep too, I shipped off 4300 lbs of brass Monday... I got tired of sorting through it... I loaded 800 rounds today between posts and those nasty interruptions called work...

ferggie, I agree, I buy A LOT of range brass, and the vast majority of the stuff that comes off of PUBLIC ranges is once fired, with a fair mix, (more and more lately) of steel and aluminum cases... Now brass from private gun clubs, that is where you find mostly 22lr, with a heavy dose of Blazer and Wolf, then your splits, crushed and separated cases...
 
Fact is, that with the .45ACP, it really doesn't matter whether the brass has been used once or 100 times as long as the case hasn't been stepped on too badly.

Hmm. I woulda thought the same thing. But I found a batch of abandoned .38 special brass that was trash. No neck tension. I tried annealing the brass, and they still had no tension. I don't think it was strictly a brass thickness issue, because it was a mix of several headstamps, including Winchester and CBC. Even a few thick military cases. Although the worst of the lot were predictably R-P. I'd still be scratching my head over it, but I figured the previous owner knew what he was doing and just tossed the whole lot.

Any time I purchased miscellaneous range brass in bulk, I would typically end up with about half to two-thirds of it that is good and workable. The others either had the wrong primers for reloading or were in some way not worth processing for reloading (cracks, loose primer pockets, primers already fallen out, etc).

Your mileage may vary.
I've purchased from a couple sources. Other than weeding out the ones that were the wrong caliber, I've only tossed 2 .45ACP cases out of 1k for poor neck tension, and perhaps 2 or 3 luger cases out of 2k for an off center primer hole or a crack. No culls out of 1k 40SW.
 
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I've had great experiences buying used brass at Cast Boolits.

OP, I sort by headstamp. Now that we are dealing with SPP I think more people will need to be doing this.

As with others, Amerc goes in the trash. I also toss any TZZ tho people have told me they like it.

Federal, Winchester, PMC, any .mil, Remington get sorted.

R-P brass is notoriously thin. I only use it for .452 lead bullets.

SPP .45 brass gets it's own bag. I may have a use for it sooner or later.

Off brands gets sorted & used for .452 lead plinker rounds tho I now have enough name brand that I don't really need to.

Scrounge any brass you can. After awhile you'll find you don't need to buy brass any more. Brass for calibers you don't load becomes trade bait or you might decide you have so much of a caliber you better buy a gun for it. :D
 
TZZ is supposed to be the same as IMI. Some people rave about it.

Of the few IMI 223 cases I have come across, they've all been too short, as measured from the shoulder. Some by a lot. That's a case head separation waiting to happen.
 
Regarding Amerc Brass especially .45 ACP caliber.

Question, why not reload it? Only fault with it I ever found is the flash holes are not centered, other than that I believe its an OK case to reload for plinking.

Just wondering.
 
The only thing I seperate completely in 45ACP brass is small primer brass, which goes into the recycle bucket. I do seperate my brass into batches used for match loads (Blazer, PMC, Speer, Winchester), and the rest for practice/range loads.
 
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