Sorry I was slow getting back to this thread, but here is the best answer / answers I got.
The internals of the CSX are considerably different from those of a standard 1911. It took a You Tube video for me to go into it and I have built a match winning 1911 from parts only. Once done for the first time, it becomes easier to navigate the second and third time in. I say that because on the first go around I was being exceptionally careful as not to overdo anything. I got back in to finalize a few things a week or so later and after a range trip.
Basically polished nearly everything that touches or rubs. Many of the components are stamped steel which often leaves a rough edge on them. There is what I can only call a "safety bar" (the manual doesn't give a parts breakdown) and it has a number of bumps and groves in it that grab various other parts used in the shot cycle. It got polished nicely.
The hammer notch that mates with the sear has a section that protrudes higher than the edges. Very hard to describe in words, but think if you were shrunk and took a walk along the hammer notch from one of the far ends. about 1/3 or so, the way across you would have to climb a vertical hill and go another 1/3 the way at a slightly higher point and then climb back down to end the walk (see diagram). At first I thought this was just a sloppy machine job from the factory, but I was informed that other guns were made with this notch also. So before touching this vital area, that can improve, destroy or make a gun very unsafe, I did multiple dry fires and was able to see the wear points under a powerful eye loop. Only then did I polish, but not remove, metal from this area. I used 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and a little creative holding devices to make sure no angles were changed.
Even with all the above, the "false reset" was still felt by me. It was reduced, but I knew it was still there. Others that tried the gun could not feel it even though I told them to look for it, so further inspection was in order.
This gun has a firing pin safety, like a Glock, that prevents the firing pin from going forward unless the trigger is depressed. It has a plunger in the slide, similar to that on a Glock, that does the job. I was able to depress the plunger and hold it into place so the safety bar was no longer in the equation. This seemed to be the final obstacle leading to the false reset. As the safety bar comes off the plunger during normal operation and from what appears to be a robust spring in the plunger, the movement translates as the false reset. If the plunger was made from steel, maybe by filing the edges to a smoother transition would work well, but it seems to be a polymer item and I have yet to figure a way to remove it from the slide to take a closer look or even go so far as to machine a better one from metal.
A target shooter that rides the reset could have a problem from an out of the box CSX, but this is far from a target gun and as we know, when a new gun hits the street, every aspect of that gun gets reviewed and this aspect has been picked up as a fault that most likely has turned some away up to now.
I hope this clears up a little about the CSX. If you like hammer fired guns, you may want to take a look at this one. The trigger pulls at about the same pounds as most striker fired guns, but it is considerably crisper with little to no creep that most striker fired guns have and the reset, false or not
, is a lot shorter.
