RCBS Pro2000 Powder Measure

[mikemyers]

There are (at least) two ways to set the volume of powder in the RCBS Pro2000 Powder Measure. The first is to do what I've always done, put a small measuring tray beneath the powder measure, and actuate the powder measure normally. With a scale, zero'd out to to compensate the measuring tray, I can directly read the weight the amount of powder dispensed by the powder measure.

The second, is to zero out the weight of an empty shell case with primer installed, on the scale, place the shell under the powder station, actuate the press as normal, then weigh the case, primer, and powder on the scale.


To me, the first option seems best when setting up the powder measure, but from then on, the most accurate readings might be obtained the second way.


For those of you who are now loading with the Pro-2000, which way do you prefer - and why.

(...as a follow-up question, while I am only reloading Winchester shells, would anything change if I had "mixed" shells, from several manufacturers.)

 

[higgite]

I use the scale pan for all powder measurements. Even cases with the same headstamp vary in weight. Zeroing the scale for each individual case before charging it would be way too tedious and no more accurate than using the pan.

 

[cfullgraf]

I have a scale pan that sits on the scale all the time except when emptying it. I either use another scale pan (measure off the press) or a case (measure on the press) to transfer the charge from the measure to the scale.

Except for Dillon powder measures on Dillon presses, I set up all my drum style powder measures off the press first, then fine tune it once I transfer it to the press.

Once the measure has been installed on the press, I cycle cases through the press to get the test charges. This is to simulate as close as possible the normal operation of the measure during loading.

Other methods would work just as well.

 

[Blue68f100]

On the Hornady LNL-AP case activated powder dispenser you need to use a cartridge to force the funnel tube up to keep contact with the dispenser as it moves up/down. Other wise you run the risk of trapping powder.

So if the RCBS works similar beware that this can happen.

 

[cfullgraf]

Blue68f100, good point. The RCBS case activated system is essentially the same as the Hornady L-N-L.

One is a license built of the other but I forget which way it is.

I prefer the Hornady set up as it has some small design advantages over the RCBS unit. I use the Hornady L-N-L case activated system on my L-N-L, Pro2000, and BL550 progressive presses.

 

[higgite]

On the Hornady LNL-AP case activated powder dispenser you need to use a cartridge to force the funnel tube up to keep contact with the dispenser as it moves up/down. Other wise you run the risk of trapping powder.

So if the RCBS works similar beware that this can happen.

Yes, very good point, Blue68f100. It does. I learned that the hard way when I kept getting inconsistent results when I used the metering screw on my Uniflow as a handle for test throws. Thankfully, it did finally dawn on me what was happening. In the words of that famous nuclear genius, Homer Simpson...... Doh!

 

[GW Staar]

Blue68f100, good point. The RCBS case activated system is essentially the same as the Hornady L-N-L.

One is a license built of the other but I forget which way it is.

I prefer the Hornady set up as it has some small design advantages over the RCBS unit. I use the Hornady L-N-L case activated system on my L-N-L, Pro2000, and BL550 progressive presses.

Hornady P.M. is a Uniflow copy.
RCBS case activated linkage is a Hornady copy. They must have some kind of sharing relationship!

Many parts can interchange.......with adjustment of course. drop tubes, ptx's, case-activated linkage, powder dies....... I don't believe in coincidences...too many with this product.

 

[mikemyers]

.......Once the measure has been installed on the press, I cycle cases through the press to get the test charges. This is to simulate as close as possible the normal operation of the measure during loading........

I finally got around to all of this earlier today. I was going to use the pan under the powder dispenser, but it seemed more logical to do what I remembered you wrote. So, everything got done using the press "normally".

The goal was 5.7 grains of Bullseye, and the powder dispenser pretty much stayed between 5.6 and 5.7.

I did 26 rounds, all one at a time. By the time I finished, the routine started to seem logical.

Question - what is the most convenient way to empty the powder measure back into the powder bottle?


Also, a related question. By doing one round at a time, my primer strip seems to get out of sync. When that happens, what is the trick to getting it back where it belongs?

 

[GW Staar]

I finally got around to all of this earlier today. I was going to use the pan under the powder dispenser, but it seemed more logical to do what I remembered you wrote. So, everything got done using the press "normally".

The goal was 5.7 grains of Bullseye, and the powder dispenser pretty much stayed between 5.6 and 5.7.

I did 26 rounds, all one at a time. By the time I finished, the routine started to seem logical.

Question - what is the most convenient way to empty the powder measure back into the powder bottle?

Also, a related question. By doing one round at a time, my primer strip seems to get out of sync. When that happens, what is the trick to getting it back where it belongs?

The way I empty the pro2K powder measure is to just pull the spring loose, unscrew the thumb nut that holds the case activated linkage to the lower (powder die), then lift the hopper off the lower and dump. The powder drop settings don't change at all.

For the sync problem, I made a simple mod to take the APS "off line". I posted the how-to here and on AR-15.com......its tacked there.

Go to this link: https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/258520_Read__First___useful_threads_for_answering_questions.html&page=1#i2526501 Then go to the fourth link down (Mod 1).

Or technically, you can just stick a Popsicle stick in where I push in the latch.....its just not as elegant and handy.

 

[mikemyers]

Sorry - I guess this wasn't a good question to post here, and there's probably a simple answer, but what I was asking was how to get all the unused powder in the powder measure back into the powder bottle. I can do this easily when the powder measure is mounted on the table stand, by opening up the measuring screw, and just running the measure handle back and forth. I was trying to find a way to do this with the measure on the Pro2000 without having to take the whole thing off the press.

Sorry for posting simple things here - in the future, I'll just call RCBS directly.

 

[cfullgraf]

I empty the powder measure the same way as GWStarr. It is really easy peasy and does not affect any settings on the measure or the setting of the powder drop die.

Note, the powder drop die remains on the press while the measure is removed and emptied. With the measure off the press, you can cycle the measure manually to get the last kernels of powder out of the measure.

Faster and easier than fooling with running the powder through the measure to empty it.

 

[GW Staar]

Sorry - I guess this wasn't a good question to post here, and there's probably a simple answer, but what I was asking was how to get all the unused powder in the powder measure back into the powder bottle. I can do this easily when the powder measure is mounted on the table stand, by opening up the measuring screw, and just running the measure handle back and forth. I was trying to find a way to do this with the measure on the Pro2000 without having to take the whole thing off the press.

Sorry for posting simple things here - in the future, I'll just call RCBS directly.

No....it's a good valid and important question.....and you are misunderstanding the answer. Not your fault.
cfullgraf explained the answer better than I did, but just in case you're still fuzzy I'll splain a little more.

cfullgraf said, "the powder drop die remains on the press while the measure is removed and emptied." He then said, "With the measure off the press, you can cycle the measure manually to get the last kernels of powder out of the measure." That's true, but once out, you turn it upside down and dump it first....into a funnel placed in the powder can.....then work the cylinder a few strokes to remove the last kernels.

The Uniflow (or Hornady P.M.) is set up on a progressive with the case-activated linkage/powder die pictured below: (powder measure faded, spring and thumb screw prominent)



So the assembly is in two pieces: 1. the Uniflow with a drop tube or PTX (powder through expander)sticking out the bottom and the upper clamp holding the case-activated linkage, 2. the case-activated linkage powder die (screws into the die plate of the press). Those two assemblies are held together by only the spring and a thumbscrew. The lower Case-activated linkage clamp is mounted to the powder die. The powder die is the ONLY part fastened to the press.

What we do is separate the two assemblies by removing the spring and the thumbscrew. Takes all of 5 seconds. Then the Uniflow just lifts away where you can turn it upside down and dump the hopper......that is WAY easier than cranking the uniflow for 5 minutes to empty

Then all you have to do to set it up for a new pistol caliber is add a caliber-specific PTX (or drop tube if you don't use a PTX) and remount the measure, re-hooking the spring and screwing in the thumb screw. Then re-mike the metering screw for the new load.

Of course you can add a different cylinder and mike while it's separated too, but I expect you'll figure out soon enough, that one more Uniflow (or use the Hornady you have with their case-activated linkage) set up with the "other" size cylinder is REALLY handy! and worth the cost.

Now one thing is over simplified.....the powder die screwed to the press. The depth you screw that in can vary depending on caliber and PTX/drop tube...........which is why really efficient (or lazy) folks buy powder dies (with the lower linkage clamp) and mount them (permanently?) to the die plate in company with the sizer, seater, crimper for a particular caliber. That's way cheaper than buying a Uniflow for each....Dillon style.

Unfortunately RCBS ones have to be ordered in the parts dept. Hornady ones......well Midway sells those! (pictured below)
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=hornady+quick+change

Here's a couple more links on the subject:

Hornady case-activated linkage: http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=hornady+case-activated
RCBS case-activated linkage: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/802477/rcbs-uniflow-powder-measure-case-activated-linkage-kit

Don't hesitate to ask questions about the press.....we are happy to share what we know or show you the way to someone smarter and more experienced.

 

[mikemyers]

Between what you guys just posted, it took me only 5 minutes to do. VERY simple, and thanks!!! What you have written really should be included in the RCBS instructions.

Until now, I understood NONE of that, only what the instruction manual says to do, to assemble the press components. I knew I could remove the entire powder hopper assembly from the die plate, and turn it upside down, but I was looking for a way to drop the powder out from the bottom, as I'm used to doing. Now I know none of that is necessary.

"Anything is easy to do, once you know how to do it!"

 

[GW Staar]

Between what you guys just posted, it took me only 5 minutes to do. VERY simple, and thanks!!! What you have written really should be included in the RCBS instructions.

I firmly believe that if everyone knew how fast and easy the Pro 2000 is to use, it would have been way more popular. That's RCBS's fault....they suck at marketing.....and instructions.


"Anything is easy to do, once you know how to do it!" Ain't that the truth!

When loading pistol consider putting the p.m in station #2 and using a PTX. Then you have more stations for things like lock-out dies and separate crimpers.

For years RCBS didn't make PTX's worth spit, and so they didn't even have instructions to do that. Hornady made them see the light when many of us Pro2k users started making Uniflow/Hornady hybrids to do just that. Then they got serious and now make even better PTX's than Hornady does.

The hybrids combined the Uniflow with Hornady's Powder die/linkage/PTX....and they worked great together. No need for that now, but actually you can use RCBS's better PTX with their linkage and p.m. and some Hornady users do that.

The RCBS PTX's are more adjustable than Hornadys. RCBS's stationary station is perfect for a lock-out die.

 

[mikemyers]

This?
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Powder-Expanders-Pro-2000-45/dp/B0063IDKJG

 

[GW Staar]

Absolutely....they expand then bell....kinda like a Lyman "M" die....the expansion is so bullets stick straight in deep and don't have a tendency to lean. Perfect for a future bullet feeder too. The bell is variable, where the Hornady PTX only bells one size for all bullets.....jacketed or cast lead. You will like.

 

[mikemyers]

Thanks again; it is now on order.

 

[cfullgraf]

The hybrids combined the Uniflow with Hornady's Powder die/linkage/PTX....and they worked great together. No need for that now, but actually you can use RCBS's better PTX with their linkage and p.m. and some Hornady users do that.

Not only can the Hornady L-N-L and RCBS Uniflow powder measures be swapped between the case activated drop systems, many, including me, have modified the Redding powder measures to function on the case activated drop systems. I use my modified Redding 10-X exclusively for pistol rounds and even swap it between presses. I use the Uniflow where charge levels get larger than what the 10-X can throw.

I even make my own PTX drop tubes so it is a hybrid target rich environment.

As far as dumping the powder measure, Hornady offers a drop tube (Hornady calles it a Powder Measure Drain Insert) that replaces the metering insert in their L-N-L powder measure. The metering insert on the powder measure is a quick change feature and by installing the drop tube, aka "Powder Measure Drain Insert", the powder measure will drain into what ever container you place under it. (Usually the original powder container is best but sometimes the floor substitutes much to the reloader's chagrin.)

I still find removing the powder measure from the press and dumping it quicker and more convenient than fooling with the drop tube.

 

[GW Staar]

....
As far as dumping the powder measure, Hornady offers a drop tube that replaces the metering insert in their L-N-L powder measure. The metering insert on the powder measure is a quick change feature and by installing the drop tube, the powder measure will drain into what ever container you place under it. (Usually the original powder container is best but sometimes the floor substitutes much to the reloader's chagrin.)

I still find removing the powder measure from the press and dumping it quicker and more convenient than fooling with the drop tube.

RCBS's newest versions of the Uniflow, the Quick Change Models borrowed that powder dump tube idea from Hornady. Even so, I agree with you.......unhooking and dumping is faster and better.......even with the quick change new snap-in metering screw feature......and especially considering that you most likely need to change PTX's, drop tubes or die plates.....and you can't do any of that with the Uniflow mounted on the press.

Lest we confuse further, cfullgraf's "drop tube" he's talking about is the powder dump, not the drop tubes used inside the uniflow to drop powder in the cases. We interchange that term often. The PTX's are specialized drop tubes usually for pistol that expand and bell.

 

[cfullgraf]

Hornady calls the tube I erroneously called a "drop tube" a "Powder Measure Drain Insert".

Edited my other post for clarity. Clear as mud yet?

 

[mikemyers]

.....Clear as mud yet?

Two days ago, it was clear as mud - mostly opaque, but for a few things I understood. With the posts you guys have made, now it all makes perfect sense.

I wonder if people at RCBS realize how much better their instructions could be, just by including some "addendum sheets" with explanations they've left out.

 

[2011redrider]

At least your measure didn't come out of the box like mine.

They must be made in China like the new scales. Waiting till Monday to see what RCBS does. I'm sure they will replace it, but, had to switch to my hornady measure to load some 223.

 

[mikemyers]

Did they forget to put on the coat of rust preventative? Is only the cylinder damaged? Did it also damage the "main casting"?

My experience with RCBS so far is that anything that is damaged, worn, or defective will be replaced immediately.

 

[2011redrider]

Had to go recheck it and looks like the powder coat is very thin in that area allowing rust to start. Also the glob at the bottom and when I turn it over and look up the hole from the bottom there is more rough casting that was never cleaned up. Maybe they will send a complete unit and I will get some spare parts! I'm sure they will take care of it, just glad I had a red one to swap out while I wait a week for the new one to arrive.
Got the press about the same time as you got yours but have only done depriming on pistol and 223 prep, sizing.

 

[mikemyers]

The explanations above really helped me. When I assembled the powder drop, I thought I followed each step in the book, not knowing "why", but just "doing". Everything went together slowly, but I thought it was OK. Somehow, that return spring ended up very tight. Even when I learned "what to do", removing the spring was a pain. I got it off by taking everything apart. Knowing what the posts up above said, when I re-assembled it, I tried to adjust everything so when the unit was at rest, there was very little tension on the spring. The way it is now, I can easily remove or replace the spring. Just curious - how tight is your spring?

Another strange thing was when I poured the powder back into the bottle. Powder seemed to want to "stick" to the inside of the hopper, even though I had cleaned everything when I assembled it. I remember reading something about how static electricity can cause this - need to figure out how to minimize that. I never had the problem in the past, but that was using Unique powder, and now I'm loading with Bullseye. None of the Unique "stuck" to the insides of the powder drop, but the Bullseye did..