Realistic Garand accuracy

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With a little thoughtful reloading, its very easy to produce ammo far better than m2 ball. When I got my m1, I shot a few rounds of m2 through it, wasn't impressed with the accuracy, started handloading for the rifle and never looked back.
 
My M1 is a late 1943/early 1944, I believe with a 1950's barrel that looks new. As was it got about 4" groups with Korean ball. Did the following:

Used the instructions on the Fulton Armory site to polish the trigger.
Lightly(emphasize LIGHTLY) peened the barrel splines to get rid of some looseness in the gas cylinder/front sight assembly.
Made sure the handguards, front and rear, had just a bit of play front-to-back, not tightly fitted.
And cut two shims to fit on the stock where the floorplate bears to tighten the receiver/stock lockup.

After those things, with the same ammo gets 2" groups, sometimes a touch better on a good day for me. One of these days I'll get some match bullets and do some loading...

Oh, if you do want to hunt with it, you can get clips that only hold 5 rounds.
 
Reloading

cracked butt said:
With a little thoughtful reloading, its very easy to produce ammo far better than m2 ball. When I got my m1, I shot a few rounds of m2 through it, wasn't impressed with the accuracy, started handloading for the rifle and never looked back.
Click to expand...

I used to reload all of my 5.56mm - back when I was younger and had more time (and better eyesight...and more hair :uhoh: ) But then 5.56 commercial reloads got to be as cheap as I could reload 'em for.

But with the new Garand (with zero MW and TE), I'm looking to get back into reloading. What is your (or your Garand's) preference for accuracy?

Cheers
 
My best M1 group so far is 4 shots in the size of a quarter at 70yds. All I have shot out of the gun is "PS" 80's Korean M2 which has worked great for me. I am still learning the rifle so hope to duplicate those results which are very good for me.

Firehand said:
Used the instructions on the Fulton Armory site to polish the trigger.
Lightly(emphasize LIGHTLY) peened the barrel splines to get rid of some looseness in the gas cylinder/front sight assembly.
.
Click to expand...

I need to do this as well, as my front sight is also loose after locking down the gas lock nut. Seems like that may have a big impact on accuracy. If anybody has any other trips for taking that play out please share.
 
Just as another data point - I bought an SA CMP SG Garand a while back, 5.9 million serial number, 10/55 barrel, which is probably original. Other than cleaning the stock up a little, I've made no changes.

Off a rest, at 100 yards it puts 8 rounds of standard USGI LC72 ball ammo into neat little groups 2" high and 3" wide. In my hands with standard issue sights, that's really good; no doubt someone with better eyes could improve on that a bit.
 
1953 HRA at 100 yards w LC

:D :D :D

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I'm not going to argue the finer points of PINNNG vs. CHINNNG vs. SHINNNG vs. SCHLINNNNG. We all agree it's some kind of 'ING.

What I will say is it's funny when somebody says "something just flew off'a his rifle".:D

Another funny thing that I had happen was the time the clip ejected and landed on top of my Stetson, on my head, and set there. The club prez saw that happen too- that was the day I told about earlier I was busting clays.:D
 
I will repost some new pics after I get some different kinds of ammo and shoot again.

I know that different ammo can make all the difference in the world.

For example, my Norinco M1A with a Krieger barrel will shoot Federal Gold Medal Match 168 grain no tighter than about 4 inches at 100 yards.

But the same rifle will shoot a local gun seller's match loads using the same kind of 168 grain HPBT projectile and 39.5 grains of H335 into groups of 1.5 inches or less.

At 100 yards, my Finn M39 sprays Wolf 200 grain ammo into vertical chains about 10 inches in dispersion, but will put Czech 147 grain ammo into clusters about three inches wide.

So oftens, accuracy comes down to ammo.

The Korean stuff works, and would be plenty good for the kind of shooting the Garand was originally intended for.

That's why I titled this thread "realistic" Garand accuracy....It's a service grade rifle with no accuracy tweaks and service grade ammo right out of the ammo can.

But, I will get some different types of ammo and give them all a run, and post the photographic results.

hillbilly
 
Fingolfin, you can- as someone mentioned- use threadlocker, but I think you're better off peening the splines.

Use a light hammer(I use a 2oz ball-peen for such work) and a flat or slightly rounded end punch. Lightly peen both edges of the top spline, then only the outside edges of the two lower splines. You can use this to adjust the fit of the ring around the barrel; ideally it shouldn't touch, and by peening a bit more on one side you can pull the ring over if it's touching.

Very light touch, it's easy to do more than needed, so do a little and try for fit. You want to have to tap on the gas tube with a mallet and wood block to push it into place. If that's too much for you, just do enough so you have to tap a screwdriver handle or something on it. All you really need is enough to eliminate any play in the fit. I can't remember the numbers but a thousandth-inch of play can be significant for accuracy.
 
I've never had good luck with the Korean 30-06 or 308. I've compared accuracy in my Garand between the Korean ammo and the surplus ammo you buy from the CMP. I noticed a significant increase in accuracy using the milsurp over the Korean. Also while going through some of the Korean ammo that was on the enblocs, I noticed several which had cracks forming on the lip of the brass. Once seeing that and noticing the differences in accuracy I stay away from any ammo coming out of Korea. YRMV
 
its klang, ya know bang klang is it true that if you want a garand in .308 all you have to do is change the barrel:D
 
Colt45, yes, that's all you "have" to do to make the Garand .308...change that barrel.

Some folks really suggest getting the adjustable vent gas nut, too, so you can shoot heavier bullets.

Here's a page where you can get the barrels.

http://www.sarcoinc.com/m1g.html#top
 
Ocabj,

spot on. That's exactly what I do with all my M1 ammo. I've used Winchester bulk 147s and the same Hornady bulk from Midway that you describe.
 
72 Rover,

my 1954 HRA likes a 150 gr bullet with 46-48 gr 4895. If you can find pulled GI M72 bullets (172 grains, I believe) you can do even better. Last batch I loaded, I think with 44 or 46 grains 4895, shot two 5-shot 100 yd groups of 1.2" from a rest.

46 grains of 4064 also works well with 150 gr bullets.

748 is said to work well, as is 760, but you should use magnum primers with both.

I should also mention that the above loads were made with GI or Korean brass and Federal match primers.
 
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