Sighting in a Garand: Where do I start?

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Mr. Doughnut

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Tomorrow, I'll finally get around to shooting a Garand that was given to me years ago.

I'll be sighting in on a B-27 @ 100 yards.

Where do I start with the sights? How many clicks for windage and elevation do you recommend to get on the paper?

The ammo is Lake City, decades old.

Thanks,
Mr. Doughnut
 
Have you become familiar with "Battle Sight" picture and/or "6 O'Clock hold"? If you are familiar with military sight pictures, you are half way there :)

Usually you start out with windage centered and up some number I can't remember from bottom aperture travel. I'll go look it up if no-one can chime in off the top of their head?
 
Probably the easiest is to start at 25 yards, "walking" in toward dead center one shot at a time. That guarantees that you're on the paper at 100 yards; maybe a bit low.

Standard sights are what, one MOA clicks? I disremember.

I like to shoot three-shot groups at 100, moving the group center as necessary for a basic sight-in before trying my luck with a five-shot group to test the rifle, the ammo and me. :)
 
I think dogma is 7 clicks but my 100yd zero is 12 with a sub 6 hold. Must have a tall front sight.

The nice thing is that the target is 24" high or so. You just need to shoot 5 shots and dial it in. Each click is an inch at that range. You'll be zeroed in 10 rounds.

J.
 
My primary frame of reference for sighting in a battle rifle is for the M-16A1, which I was issued in January 1974 at Fort Dix. It's been a while.

What I'd like for my exercise tomorrow is the number of clicks on the rear sight (both left side and right side) I should start at.

The 25-yard option may not be practical at my club -- depending on the number of pistol shooters there -- hence my inquiry for sight settings to get on paper at 100 yards.
 
Do the club have a 50 yard? If so try it there. If you start at the 25 if you 0 it at 25 it will shoot high at 100 about 7in or so. if you use a 6in target at 25 set it so you are on the botton of your target. GOOD LUCK
 
Center the windage on the index marks to start, and shoot a group @ 25 yards. If you can't shoot at 25 yards, just use the index marks for center and 100 yard elevation, shoot at 100 and see what happens. They can vary as to how many clicks up from bottom, so remember yours after zeroing, and before setting the drum to the sight in range. If your zero doesnt match the markings on the sight for 100 yard zero, loosen the bar or nut that holds the elevation drum (or is it the screw? It's been many years since I zeroed one), without moving the actual sight, and move the drum to the 100 yard setting and retighten the drum nut or bar. Your other range markings should be good now.

I sight the M-1 in for point of aim at 100. You can use the battle sight setting(the long line, or 300 yrds) if you want, but there's no reason to have the sight zero off to achieve that.
 
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I like the simple battle zero as identified in the above post. It works. I don't shoot in competitions and 4" out to about 400 yds is a good battle zero.
 
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Everyone is making this way to hard.
I prefer 6 O Clock hold
Add approx 6 clicks up from bottom on elevation, fire at 25yds, continue to adjust until centered.
Fire at 100 and adjust (you will be approx 2 inches high)
Shouldnt take more than 1 enbloc to get zeroed at 100
 
Thanks for all the great info, guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Heres how mine shoots....Greek HXP

50 yds = 8 clicks up from bottom
110yds = 9
210yds = 10
350yds = 13
540yds = 19
 
I always start with windage at mechanical zero and 10 clicks up from bottomed out at 50 yds (local range has no 25 yd line) I use my Caldwell "Rock" and a rear bag to get a steady hold and try to shoot a good three-shot group and see where it prints. I try to get roughly zeroed at 50 yds and then move out to 100 yds. Once I'm zeroed at 100 yds, I reset the elevation knob to 100 yds and see how close the knob set at 200 gets me at 200 yds, adjusting as necessary. I do this with my M1 Garands and M1As.

I sight my AR15A2 at 50 yds and, with standard loads, I find it shooting on at 200 yds.

FH
 
Start out a 25 yd. This will get you on paper then adjust your sights to get on the bull. When you move out to 100 yds only slight adjustment will be necessary and you'll save a pile of ammo.
 
Mr Doughnut, do you have a 3/16 Allen hex key?
If not you will want to get one.
Center the rear sight and raise from the bottom most position 8 to 12 clicks. You'll be 2 to 4 inches high at 25 meters using a centered bull hold. The front sight post will have the "X" sitting atop. I have three M1s and they varied between that. If the wind is still when you get satisfied with your 25 meter target move out to 100 meters and use the 6 o'clock the bull centered and the front post just under the bull. Move the front sight to zero. That is the reason for the Allen key. That way you can use the rear windage for wind and not a mis-aligned front sight.
Let us see the targets when you get them. And a photo or two of the rifle.
 
Shoot it first, at 25 yards to see where it's striking. If centered & close to point of aim, move to 100 yards & adjust as necessary. If not centered, adjust as necessary.
Don't mess with the sights till you see where they're at.

And DON'T try to zero on a B27. You need a much smaller round target with a much more precise and repeatable aiming point.
Denis
 
The doctrinal starting position for both the M1 and M14 is 12 and 0. Twelve clicks of elevation with the windage at dead center. That will put you about 6" high (or center of the bull) at 200 yards.

Now most M1s have been rebuilt at least once, so the sights may not be as well-centered as they were when the rifles were new. So your final zero may be quite different.

(Added; Have you checked the butt trap of your rifle carefully? Many M1s have a zero card in there, left by the last GI to carry that rifle.)
 
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