Reality Check on Remington 700 enhancements

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*NOVA*

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So I've upgraded my Remington 700 BDL thusly:

1. the trigger to a Timney set at 1.5 pounds,
2. added a Blackhawk bipod (easily removed with a twist of a knob)
3. pillar & bedded with a ScoreHigh Kit
4. upgraded from a 3x9x40 Redfield Revolution scope to a 4x12x40
5. cleaned and removed copper fouling with Bore Foam

But I'm still thinking of other things I can do. Here's the thing - this is supposed to be a dual purpose rifle - hunting game and a standoff weapon in a large perimeter defense situation. I do not anticipate I will be able to shoot accurately beyond 400 yards - not through a sporter weight barrel.
This is a used gun - I do not know how many rounds went through it before I bought it but the bore looks pretty good. I see no reason to replace the barrel as I get sub MOA shots at 100 yards and am currently focusing on getting tighter groups at 200 yards. So I am ruling out buying a bull barrel. Besides, I'm trying to keep as many original parts as practical (except for the trigger, I still have the original bolt, receiver action, barrel, stock etc.)

here's what I am considering - lapping bullets and firing pin improvemnets.
I checked out the following site - http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-tms
Does anyone have experience with the Tubbs firing pins or lapping bullets? I am getting reloading equipment soon, but meanwhile I am considering buying the lapping rounds kit vs the bullet only kit.
 
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I get sub MOA shots at 100 yards
Then don't even come close to the barrel with 'Lapping Bullets'.

Your chances of making it shoot worse are about 60%, most of the time.

If your light sporter will shoot sub-MOA at 100 yards it is easily capable of 500 - 600+ shots once your skill level gets to that point.

rc
 
Leave it alone and start pushing the range of your shooting. You've got plenty of gun for now.
 
You don't state the caliber, but unless it is something you can and are willing to buy two dollar a pop factory match for, you can likely improve accuracy with good handloads.
That will also let you shoot and practice more.
 
the rifle is chambered in 30-06 Springfield - and yes, I have a RCBS Master Starter kit on lay-away and should be reloading 30-06 and 10mm within a month or two. Also have a Chrony, and a BDC app (with known Ballistic coefficients for most of the popular bullet weights) on my iPhone so yeah, I reckon its down to me finding out what grain and load my rifle likes best and then practice, practice, practice.

OK, thanks y'all! I appreciate your advice - makes sense to me!
 
Sub MOA is a good place to call your project complete!
Well, the project is almost complete!:)

It's one thing to see what my limitations as a shooter might be, and hopefully after years of practice I may learn the answer to that. Its quite another thing, IMO, to see what the full potential of a firearm is.

So, I plan on bringing a Caldwell Lead Sled on a trip to the range in the near future. I want to minimize shooter error and eliminate as many variables as possible. Stick with one brand and grain for ammo. Shoot on a windless day. Let the barrel cool between shots. Bore snake between shots. No scope adjustments (as long as I'm on paper) Same POA every time.
Ultimately I want to see what maximum distance can my deer rifle consistently place shots inside a pie-plate size target, aka Mass Of Deer.

I have only been deer hunting once when I was a teenager - bagged nothing that day. But I understand most deer bagged here in Virginia are within 150 to 200 yards due to terrain, woods density, occasionally in open fields. Through my business travel I met some folks in Hurricane, Utah who hunt elk on a regular basis. On the open plains, valleys and hills where there are no trees for miles, they tell me a typical ethical kill shot is between 400 and 600 yards. I'm hoping to find out just what an old Remington 700 BDL is capable of, so when my son inherits it he will know what it can do and the rest is up to him. :D
 
My spiel:

There is a whole lot of benchrest ritual that is a waste of time, money, and effort in the pursuit of a 1" group.
It may or may not help getting a .15" group to improve to a .149" group, but it has nothing to do with getting a guy who shoots 2.5" groups to shoot a 1" group.

Big effect on accuracy
1) shoot when there is no wind
2) get a high power scope
3) practice dry firing and keeping cross hairs on bullseye
4) clean out Copper fouling in bore
5) good bullets
6) No expander ball use
7) jam bullet into lands
8) heavy gun and light bullet
9) float the barrel
10) keep barrel cool
11) expensive bull barrels
12) make sure scope mounts are tight to receiver

Little or no effect on accuracy
1) True the action face
2) true the inner C ring
3) lap the lugs
4) true the bolt face
5) chase the threads
6) speed up the lock time
7) glass bed the action
8) pillar bed the action
9) get a 1 ounce trigger
10) turn the case necks
11) weigh the brass
12) de burr the flash holes
13) weigh each powder charge
14) try different powders
15) use benchrest primers
16) lap the scope rings.
17) Dial in bore when chambering
18) re crown the muzzle
 
Shoot.

Shoot more often.

Shoot more often at extended ranges.

DONE.

With tuned handloads and a skilled marksman, I'd bet that rifle could put 3 shots on a 12" plate at 1000yd.
 
Bore Tech Eliminator

I would try BTE it cleans out copper fouling better than guslick and Butches Bore Shine. Both of which I thought did a superior job on a bore. I have 2 older guns probably have 1000 or more though each 222 rem and 308 win both had been cleaned the last 3 years with gun slick foaming bore cleaner and Butches bore shine. The barrels of each looked very clean and bright accuracy on the 308 had deteriorated and I had basically given up on it. I read about BTE on another forum and bought some. I had to run at least 50 patches through the 308 to get all the copper out it shoots 1" groups now which is really good for a 19" barrel with a full length stock.

Buy some and follow the directions I am very impressed with the results.

Good Luck
 
You did not mention the crown of the barrel. A small imperfection can have a large impact on accuracy.
Unfortunately, even Remington factory barrels can be bad. If you are wanting good consistent accuracy, have a Shilen, Douglas, Lilja, or other premium barrel fitted.
 
BTW, in one class we discussed the conversion of the Rem 700 to have a SAKO extractor and the milling of the bolt face and installing a new barrel for controlled feeding.

The irony is that Jack Connor wrote up in his book on the Rifle that Rem tested its extractor against a Mauser type claw extractor. In a pull test, the Rem outlasted the Mauser.

The real issue is the silver soldered bolt handle. Silver solder is strong, but I know some gunsmiths who will not build an African rifle based on the 700. They don't want to hear about the bolt handle breaking during an inopportune moment. Haven't heard of one breaking myself.
 
Only 700 broken bolt handles I have seen were from the rifles falling out of tree stands, two of them! Late Winchester M 70's on the other hand are documented to have failed in the field. The back of the bolt body on them is knurled then the handle is pressed on and soldered. A TIG tack at the junction of the body and handle fixes this.
 
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