REALLY stuck 223 case

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Hyrulejedi86

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I was resizing and depriming my 223 brass and got one stuck, I thought I was using enough lube but I guess I needed more. It's kinda difficult to know how much is enough but anyway I got a case stuck in the die. I tried the drill, tap and try to pull it out with a bolt method but that ended up stripping the tapped threads out and didn't budge the brass. What is the next option to try??

Thanks!
 
Hmm, not sure of the brand, I hadn't separated by brand, I just know tha they are 223 not 5.56. From looking at the bottom of what's left of the case it looks like federal.
 
He asked what brand the die was, not the brass. If it's Lee die (maybe others?), just unscrew the top nut and push the sizer/decapper pin and brass together out of the bottom of the die. Then attack with pliers or similar method.
 
Oops, read that to fast. It's a hornady die. I did already get the decapper resizer out the back so it's just the brass left and I'm tearing up the brass with pliers so i stopped trying with it. I'm thinking about retrying the tap method with a bigger tap.

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i got one stuck once and just kept stepping up the size of drill bit till I got it to unstick. go slow when putting a drill bit inside a die so as to not ruin it.
 
I might have to do that, but if they can get it out i would think i might be able to as well.

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Try the bigger tap. Make sure you fully understand the mechanics of the removal process.
I only say that because you shouldn't be having that much trouble unless the finish inside the die was bad or some other issue is causing it to stick.
 
I go right for the 1/4-20 tap to do this. A smaller tap/threaded rod will not always work due to less of a grip inside the relatively softer brass casing. Might not be able to do this with a 22 Hornet but most brass is big enough to use the 1/4-20 tap the first time. You have already ruined the brass casing anyway so starting smaller is not worth it to me. FWIW I have a setup that works well. First I put the die in the press upside down and flush with the top after installing the lock ring. Then drill and tap as needed. Next I screw in the threaded rod, drop on an old 1/2" drive socket that fits over the end of the die completely square end up and then an old roller-bearing that I slide down in that order then tighten the nut onto the rod until that removes the brass. You could use a long screw or bolt but I had the threaded rod section on hand already so I used it. In all my years reloading the only brass that has stuck on me have been 223 and 30-06.

Hint:---Try using a bit more lube next time.;) If you do manage to use more than enough there will be oil dents on the brass shoulders. Just try not to get lube on the shoulders in the first place. The lower part of the body on the brass is not being lubed enough if they stick I find. You will find a happy medium somewhere in between I bet.
 
I feel for you. Stuck cases suck. I like to tumble my brass before FL sizing/Depriming them so I get most of the junk off the sides, carbon, mud, unburnt powered, whatever, then wipe me down to get all the media off them. I also swear by the hornady lube spray before I do any sizing. I try to buy extra of my main reloading dies just in case a break happens so I don't have to stop and wait for a die to be returned. The lee are cheap enough for spares. Just a though. I only keep extras for .223, 308, 9mm , 38/357, 44 and 45.
 
I ran all my brass through the Hornady Ultrasonic cleaner with their solution. They clean, in fact most were already ran through a tumbler by my father in-law since he doesn't want to reload them he gave them to me. I was using the hornady lube but apparently not enough, ugh, I just dont know how much is enough. A spare might not be a bad idea.
 
You might also check for build up of lube in the die, they need to be cleaned once in a while to remove the old case lube that accumulates inside the die.
 
Same as you would clean a gun.

But that's not your problem.

Your problem can be one of three things.
1. Your shell holder does not fit the case rim as it should.

2. Or, you are not getting case lube all over the cases.

3. Or, you are not waiting long enough for the solvent in the spray lube to evaporate off leaving the lube to do it's job.
(I assume you are using Hornady spray lube?)

Try spraying a bunch of cases, and let them dry 5-10 minutes while hand stirring them in a mixing bowl or something.

Then as you pick each one up to size it?
Use your fingers to spread the lube evenly all over the case, but especially at the rear 1/2 so the thickest part of the case has a thin film of lube all over it.

The amount you need is what is left on the case after you wipe off all you can with your oily fingers.

More then that, and you will get oil dents in the shoulders from too much lube.

PS: There is no reason to keep extra dies on hand to cover the dies with stuck cases in them!!

The last time I stuck a case in a die was probably about 1970 when I stopped using Herter's shell holders and started using RCBS shell holders that fit right!

rc
 
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Used to happen to me a lot when I was using the wrong lube (silicone spray is NOT lube).

1) Remove decapping pin
2) Insert something that fits in the case though the mouth/die
3) Beat the CRAP out of it.
4) Use more/the right lube next time.
 
I use a propane torch to heat up the die with the case stuck inside. I do this to burn out any oil or residue and to expand the die to squeeze the stuck case. I then put it in the deep freeze over night. The next day I use a wire with a bend on the end to grab the open neck of the case and pull on the case. As the die warms up in your hand, at some point you get the maximum distance between the inside of the die and the brass case. If you have the lip of the case hooked it will pop out. Just my method. kwg
 
I have a 5/16 tap and the correct size drill bit in my stuck case remover kit for that very reason. I was trying to remove one for a friend who stuck it really bad, and then buggered it up by messing with it. Thought for a minute or two that it was going back to the factory. Lightman
 
use a fine thread tap, like a 1/4 28 or a metric, they will have less pitch and you will have more threads in the brass ,making it less likely to become striped
 
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I had a case stick one time.. I took the sizer out. and took a brass rod down to the bottom of the case and taped it out. while the die is still on the press...poped right out..
 
I have a hard time understanding how you could possibly get the expander button on the depriming rod pulled back out of the stuck case.

When the case neck is compressed inside the sizing die, smaller then it has to be to allow the expander to come back out of the case neck.

rc
 
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