That's not a stuck case; THIS is a stuck case

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Shmackey

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I managed to get a case stuck in my Redding small-base .308 sizing die last night. Tried the usual methods, no deal. Ran out and got an RCBS stuck-case removal kit. Drilled it, started to tap it, and broke the tap clean in half while turning it. Now it's a stuck case with a steel plug in the primer pocket. :)

Guess I'll send it to Redding with $27 per their Web page and have them deal with it. Not sure what they're gonna do, though. :)
 
Get a tap handle and a new tap. You have to work the tap SLOWLY with oil, back it out every once in a while to clean the cuttings out.
 
If I were to do that, what would I do about the tool-steel RCBS tap that's currently broken off inside the case, nearly flush with the case head?
 
That's easy... you reach for your Walton broken tap removal tools.

Oh... you don't have any of those? Yeah - neither did I, until I broke off a tap in my M1A receiver (long story....)

Okay - give this a shot. No guarantees it will work, but what the heck.

Take some finish nails, and put them into the flutes of the broken tap, as deep as you can get them. Leave an inch of so sticking up. Now, grab the bundle with a pair of Vise Grips, or a big pair of channel locks, and try and back the tap out.

And next time, when you feel that much resistance on the tap, stop, and back it out a half-turn to clear the chips, then continue tapping. And a little cutting oil wouldn't hurt, either.
 
I did the same thing with a 5.56 and a broken tap (I knew it was getting dull and starting to cut harder). I figured I had nothing to lose so I used a long 3/8 punch and one solid whack with hammer popped it out. I was careful to keep the punch centered in the piece of die thru the case and the die was upside down in the press. I have since stopped using Hornady one shot and sizing is back to being easy.
 
Can you cut a slot in the tap with a cutting disk? Then turn it out with a big screwdriver?

If it's too deep, you might be able to make 2 indentations in the tap on either side, using diamond bits. Then machine a custom wrench to fit in the holes.
 
If there's no way to get the decapping pin completely out of the die, then likely the tap may have hit the decapping assembly causing the resistance that broke the tap. I've tapped several stuck brass cases and as long as I was just tapping just the brass there was never enough resistance to break the tap. Now how to get the tap out is something probably covered in the other posts and I won't attempt to figure it out. But maybe it won't happen anymore if I've succeeded in guessing what caused it to break in the first place.
Every stuck case I've ever had was due to One Shot or the Lyman equivalent. I've NEVER made this stuff work and I've been reloading for 30 yrs now. I use Imperial wax lube or STP with 100% reliability.
 
Yea that Hornady one shot spray is bad news for case resizing. I've had 3 super stuck cases and after getting two stuck in one session, I called Lee and asked what lube to use.

They said to not use the One Shot spray and go with a wax-type lube instead. Since that change, not one stuck case. Hornady should stop selling that trash. I don't think it reflects well on their brand.
 
If I were to do that, what would I do about the tool-steel RCBS tap that's currently broken off inside the case, nearly flush with the case head?
Click to expand...

That's an easy one, TIG weld a nut to it and back it out.
 
If I were to do that, what would I do about the tool-steel RCBS tap that's currently broken off inside the case, nearly flush with the case head?
Click to expand...

You might be able to shatter the tap because the high speed steel used in taps is brittle. If you can get a good lick on it with a hardened steel punch, like a center punch, you might get it to break up enough to pick all of the pieces out.

If you go this route be sure to wear some safety glasses. It also helps to lay a shop rag over it to help deflect the shrapnel.

Good luck.

Seedtick

:)
 
Two thoughts:

1. You guys are nuts with your welding and stuff. :)

2. I was indeed using One Shot. What can I use that won't foul primers and powder when I overdo it?
 
1. You guys are nuts with your welding and stuff.
Click to expand...

It works every time and the heat added helps for bolts when rust or thread locker is in play.

A machinist gets all bummed when they break a tap off in a part and think you are a magician when you remove a broken tap from a part in under 5 minutes. Most think it takes a metal disintegrator or EDM to remove one but with a TIG its easy.

The most touchy one I have removed was a #5 hex set screw (red locktite) recessed down in a Novak rear sight, didn't even hurt the sight.
 
2. I was indeed using One Shot. What can I use that won't foul primers and powder when I overdo it?
Click to expand...

Imperial or wire pull lube.

You are supposed to clean the cases after sizing to remove the lube - not go directly to priming.
/Bryan
 
Shmackey said:
I was indeed using One Shot. What can I use that won't foul primers and powder when I overdo it?
Click to expand...
There is a reason a lot of people recommend Imperial Sizing Wax. They tried it (usually after having to deal with stuck cases), and never looked back.
 
Seems like there is a common thread among those who use One Shot----Stuck Case stories.

I use Hornady Lube and haven't had a single stuck case yet. It's their Unique though, not One Shot.
 
Canuck-IL said:
Imperial or wire pull lube.

You are supposed to clean the cases after sizing to remove the lube - not go directly to priming.
/Bryan
Click to expand...

But that's why I use One Shot. :)

Ugh ok if cleaning them before priming will fix all this, I'll add the extra step. Best practices for doing that inside and out?
 
Large quantity - tumble them briefly ... small quantity like in load development, I just rub them around with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
/B
 
I have loaded many rounds lubed with Dillon case lube (spritzer bottle) and have not had a fouled primer or load yet. I usually briefly tumble the loaded rounds to clean the lube off the outside. If I have to interupt the sequence on a progressive loader then I don't see much point of using a progressive loader.
 
Quote:
Large quantity - tumble them briefly ... small quantity like in load development, I just rub them around with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.

+1


I add mineral spirits to all my tumbling activity whether they have been lubed or not. Really helps get them nice and shiney and cuts the lube, just don't add too much. A couple tablespoons in my small vibrating tumbler on top of the media gets mixed up pretty quick. Tumble no less than an hour. Get it at wally-world in the paint section. Called simply "paint thinner."
 
Quote: If I have to interupt the sequence on a progressive loader then I don't see much point of using a progressive loader.

Since I've NEVER made oneshot and others work without stuck cases, I resize all bottleneck cases on my old single-stage in large lots. Then I trim, tumble, etc. and do all my priming/loading on the Dillon. Still much faster than single-stage. Pistol rounds I use carbide dies and just run them through the Dillon without lube or trimming. I may have to break down and try the Dillon lube if it actually works.
 
The dillon lube works, I size/deprime and trim on a 650 then load on a 1050. After they are finished a quick trip in the tumbler knocks the lube off.
 
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