Rebarreling a Mauser?

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

How much should I be looking at for a rebarrel and headspace job?

The rifle is a 1940 vintage Turkish Mauser, large ring, without receiver notch. In other words, it's one of the not many Turk Large Rings that was made for the 8mm Cartridge, so it didn't need to be notched on the top of the receiver to allow for the OAL of the cartridge.

I wanted to keep this rifle factory original, minus bent bolt (how I received it). But due to rust and some pretty serious muzzle erosion, and iffy rifling integrity now, the only way I can see me getting anymore use out of this rifle is rebarreling it.

So, how much should I be looking at for price?

And which caliber should I go with? Because now that I can't really keep it usable with the same barrel, and I'll never own a gun I can't shoot, I'm thinking about making it a bench gun, and fix it to one of my stock designs.

Any thoughts?

 

[denton]

Most Turks are LR, but with SR barrel threads. If that is the case with yours, you can rethread and install a new take-off Remington barrel. I have one that I did that way, and I call it my Turkington.

What cartridge? You have a great many alternatives ranging from 9.3x62 if an African hunt is in your future to 6.5x55 if you want a cartridge that will do for about any hunt in North America. I happen to really, really like the 7x57 operated at modern cartridge pressures. You can push a 162 grain bullet to 2750 FPS, it doesn't punish the shooter, and it will take down about anything except maybe a cranky Alaskan brownie.

Our local smith doesn't charge a lot. He rethreaded and installed my Remington barrel, lopped of the bolt handle and rewelded it, ground down the bridge, drilled and tapped for a scope, changed out the safety, and reblued for $125. He learned his trade in the Wehrmacht, and is a happy camper when you bring him a Mauser. That's about the least I would expect to pay.

 

[LoonWulf]

Depends on how much you wanna spend on the barrel. Turning it on should cost between 75-150, if its short chambered...honestly i dont know how much work a mauser tube is to install. The two barrels ive paid to have installed (03 and 700) were both right around 75 for the install and finish ream.

I reload so i would be looking at a .260 or 7mm-08 for range shooting both should require little or no work to make feed properly. If you dont reload the .308 might be a better option because of ammo availabilities and cost.

As Denton said the other mauser rounds would also be good choices, if a little pricier to shoot, atleast from what i see localy.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I'm looking for a caliber I can readily buy off the shelf. But at the same time, I like to be a little different. Since I might end up making this a custom rifle, I've got some bench applications in mind.

 

[TurtlePhish]

6.5x55? It's common but still not .308 common. And very accurate.

 

[OldMac]

The 308 barrels are about $55 at sportsmans guide

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I was just thinking about that at work. Gives me a reason to reload. Ballistic info?

 

[TurtlePhish]

Don't know any ballistic info off the top of my head, but 6.5mm bullets generally have high BC and SD compared to other bullets.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Have component prices?

 

[barnetmill]

The 308 barrels are about $55 at sportsmans guide

I strongly suggesting getting a good barrel and I cannot see how a quality barrel will only cost $55. If your magazine will handle the round, 30-06 with a 1 in 10" twist is a good choice. You can use all bullets wts from 110 to 220 grain and can use up to 60 gr of powder. The 8 mm is also a good choise.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

The rifle is 8mm now. Though, I guess it wouldn't hurt to keep it in this caliber, just replacing the barrel. But I'm looking for a good bench project. Though I'm wondering how much the LGS would charge to have a barrel turned to factory specs for the rifle, with matching profile and reinstall the sights. Hmm...

 

[TurtlePhish]

Bullets

Brass

These are higher-end components, they can be found much cheaper.

 

[LoonWulf]

You could pester Kachock hes one of the forums x55 afficianados and loads for it. Turning and fitting a barrel with original sights will atleast double the cost of installation, if not more. Unless you REALY like the original configuration its cheaper to get a threaded and turned barrel sans sights. Ershaw is one i realy like in the 150 dollar range.

Component bullet prices for most "standard" calibers get more expensive the higher in cal you go, not taking into consideration mil pulls or cheap comercial fmjs. Cases on the other hand are definitely cheaper in more common chamberings. 308 is distinctly cheaper then the others not by a whole lot but definitely cheaper. Lee dies can be had in most of the aforementioned cals for about 20-30 bucks.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Thinking I might just go about doing a 6.5x55 conversion, making the gun a bench gun, and possibly either selling this furniture, or buying another Turk with wood in less quality.

 

[gamestalker]

The last time I re-barreled was on an M98 back in the mid 1980's. I put a Douglas on it chambered in 7mm RM and it still shoots straight to this day. I think back then it was around a $200 investment including install.

You said something about the bolt being bent. What exactly do you mean by bent? I would be concerned about the reciever being any good with a bent bolt.
GS

 

[LoonWulf]

I believe he means the handle is turned down.

 

[Elkins45]

The 308 barrels are about $55 at sportsmans guide

I strongly suggesting getting a good barrel and I cannot see how a quality barrel will only cost $55.

If those are the Israeli 7.62 barrels that were offered for sale 20 years ago by J&G and others then they are good barrels--fully the equal of the ones that the rifle left the arsenal with. But the cost of this project is in the labor more than the materials, so a brand new short-chambered Adams & Bennet (Shaw) barrel from Midway can often be had on sale from Midway for $80.

Of course if you want iron sights then having one of those Sportsman's Guide barrels screwed on and aligned would absolutely be the way to go.

 

[denton]

Cartridges based on the 308 will work in a converted Turk, but they look funny in the magazine. If you want a 243, 260, 7mm08 or 308 you're probably better off to start with a Yugo action.

In a full length Turk, you might as well go to something based on the 30-06 type case such as the 9.3x62, 338-06, 30--06, 280, or 6.5mm-06.

The mid-length European cartridges like the 7x57, 6.5x55, or 8x57 work just fine in either the Yugo or full-length actions.

The 257 Roberts is a unique choice, and a well-loved cartridge by those who own them.

I wouldn't chamber in 260 or 7mm08 when the 6.5x55 and 7x57 offer just slightly more performance.

I have customized a couple of Mausers, and have generally given it up because it's not often economically feasible. You can buy a new rifle in the chambering you want for the price of customization. Then you have two rifles.

My current approach is to install Mojo Sights on a Mauser, and just enjoy it for what it is. They are a big step up from post and notch sights, and cost about $70. Operated at modern pressures, an 8x57 will spit out a 175 grain bullet at 2750-2800 FPS or a 200 grain bullet at about 2600. If you can do 2" groups at 100 with a stock Mauser with Mojos, then you have a gun that's abundantly capable to 250 yards.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Bolt handle was hillbilly bent. Kinda irritating, but it's still functional. And here pretty soon I'm going to run the last 65 rounds through her or less most likely to see if she'll still be accurate.

 

[wlewisiii]

I have a VZ-24, factory bent bolt, with a sewer pipe 7x57 barrel on it. I found a 19" mil step barrel in 7x57 online. My local gunsmith is removing the old barrel, installing the new, moving the iron sights from the old barrel to the new barrel, checking headspace & test firing for $100. Biggest problem is waiting my turn in the very long line for him to do his work But I'm up next after only a month and a half so I'm happy.

7mm Mauser. Still the best.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I've been doing some thinking on converting it to 6.5 Swede, but still open to suggestions.

 

[wlewisiii]

Seriously, the 6.5 is an excellent chambering. Over the years, I've just developed a preference for the 7mm (7x57, 7-30, 7mm-08, etc) and tend to "rah rah" it when I can. It shoots flat, can move a wide range of bullets and when then a range day is done, they haven't turned my shoulder to mush like the boomers do.

Your milage, as they say, will vary. Give a Twede (a Turk with 6.5 barrel ) a shot. A whole lot of big critters get killed with it in scandinavia every year. You can always build a 7x57 the next time. Then the time after that you can get that nice necked down mauser round, the .257 Roberts. Then after that ...

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Lol well I'm probably going to make this a bench gun, as much as it pains me to say. I've never been huge on sporterizing, and I definitely don't like doing it to where you can't go back. But, I can't own a rifle I can't shoot. I'm going to see if she'll still shoot decent, and if she does I may leave her how she is. I guess I could have her counter-bored, too.

 

[denton]

The 6.5 Swede is an absolute delight to shoot and to hunt with. In a strong action like the 98 Mauser, you can get over 3000 FPS with a 120 grain bullet. With 140 grain bullets, you still have a long flat trajectory and plenty of oomph at the end. 6.5 bullets tend to have high ballistic coefficients... long skinny things.

I have two. One is a converted FN commercial action, and the other is a straight milsurp with Mojo Sights. Both have mild recoil, long reach, and are a lot of fun to shoot.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Well the 'smith wants 285 total for the whole job. To me it sounds a little steep.