recoil springs for CZ75
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Matthew_Q
Member
Amen on Wolff. Don't even bother looking for any place else. Just get some from Wolff.
Try a 16# and an 18# and figure out which one works best with the ammo you're using.
Try a 16# and an 18# and figure out which one works best with the ammo you're using.
PCRCCW
Member
Fullsize gun...or standard 75 B.....with occasional +P and lots of target ammo.....16#
Lots of CCW ammo mostly...go with an 18#
Compact 75...go up 2#'s for the same application.
Shoot well..............
Lots of CCW ammo mostly...go with an 18#
Compact 75...go up 2#'s for the same application.
Shoot well..............
Zak Smith
Member
FWIW, I've gone the opposite direction - I have 9# and 10# springs in my CZ75BSA and CZ75Combat. They run faster & flatter.
-z
-z
PCRCCW
Member
Zak, Alot of comp. shooters do this...to each their own.
I know CCW guns have been recommended to use the heaviest spring you can that is 100% functional and Comp shooters go the lightest they can and not lose function..along with a shock buff..........
Shoot well
I know CCW guns have been recommended to use the heaviest spring you can that is 100% functional and Comp shooters go the lightest they can and not lose function..along with a shock buff..........
Shoot well
Zak Smith
Member
PCRCCW,
Exactly.
When the recoil spring is too weak, it may not reliably chamber the next round (too much resistance) ot return to battery. It will also "batter" some parts in the gun more. When the recoil spring is too strong, it may not reliably eject or feed.
In the middle, where the gun does operate reliably, a heavier spring will usually "smooth out" the recoil impule and make the gun rise more. A lighter spring will usually make the slide run faster and the recoil flatter, while "shortening" or "speeding up" the recoil impule.
For carry guns, I leave it right in the middle.
For guns I shoot only in competition, I usually go lighter. In the CZ's, 9-11#'s as I said. In my .45 1911, I run a 14# and a shock buf.
regards.
-z
Exactly.
When the recoil spring is too weak, it may not reliably chamber the next round (too much resistance) ot return to battery. It will also "batter" some parts in the gun more. When the recoil spring is too strong, it may not reliably eject or feed.
In the middle, where the gun does operate reliably, a heavier spring will usually "smooth out" the recoil impule and make the gun rise more. A lighter spring will usually make the slide run faster and the recoil flatter, while "shortening" or "speeding up" the recoil impule.
For carry guns, I leave it right in the middle.
For guns I shoot only in competition, I usually go lighter. In the CZ's, 9-11#'s as I said. In my .45 1911, I run a 14# and a shock buf.
regards.
-z
PCRCCW
Member
Zak,
For guns Ive build for comp., while never actually doing it, Ive done about the same thing.
The CZ Custom SA I have for sale currently, SNIFF, it had the OEM recoil (guaged @ 14#) and a buff...worked like a charm. Its got a heavier spring and the Sprinco system in it and seems to be the best of both worlds. I get the softer recoil as the heavier spring and very little muzzle rise due to the Second spring....very cool little system.
Im my PCR, CCW..I run a 20# and its what works the best for me in that gun.....great learning from all of you guys...
Shoot well.............
For guns Ive build for comp., while never actually doing it, Ive done about the same thing.
The CZ Custom SA I have for sale currently, SNIFF, it had the OEM recoil (guaged @ 14#) and a buff...worked like a charm. Its got a heavier spring and the Sprinco system in it and seems to be the best of both worlds. I get the softer recoil as the heavier spring and very little muzzle rise due to the Second spring....very cool little system.
Im my PCR, CCW..I run a 20# and its what works the best for me in that gun.....great learning from all of you guys...
Shoot well.............
Zak Smith
Member
PCRCCW,
If you want a smokin' CZ for competition, I suggest taking a CZ 85 COMBAT (no firing pin block) and then installing the "Champion" hammer, trigger, and sear. You'll have to grind or mill down the hammer to make it a little narrower to fit the 85 slide vs. the Champion slide. Tune that thing up and you've got like a 2# trigger with no take up and almost no overtravel. Just an idea.
-z
If you want a smokin' CZ for competition, I suggest taking a CZ 85 COMBAT (no firing pin block) and then installing the "Champion" hammer, trigger, and sear. You'll have to grind or mill down the hammer to make it a little narrower to fit the 85 slide vs. the Champion slide. Tune that thing up and you've got like a 2# trigger with no take up and almost no overtravel. Just an idea.
-z
PCRCCW
Member
Zak,
Ive shot em. Had my CZ gunsmiths comp gun...an SA with the same IPSC/Champion trigger group...it was FREAKIN SCARY..like an old S&W revolver in SA...if youre holding the gun and sneeze you just shot it.
I like the way mine is or was..will be...never mind. Its the OEM DA sear and hammer, with the Alloy CZ SA trigger with takeup and overtravel adj.'s.
Its at 3#'s, no hammer camming action and has just enough of each t/a and o/t, to be an excellent CCW if I want and is small enough to make an excellent Comp. gun also......
Id love the Comp trigger group if it was a Comp only gun.......
BTW...youre as spoiled as me...
shoot well
Ive shot em. Had my CZ gunsmiths comp gun...an SA with the same IPSC/Champion trigger group...it was FREAKIN SCARY..like an old S&W revolver in SA...if youre holding the gun and sneeze you just shot it.
I like the way mine is or was..will be...never mind. Its the OEM DA sear and hammer, with the Alloy CZ SA trigger with takeup and overtravel adj.'s.
Its at 3#'s, no hammer camming action and has just enough of each t/a and o/t, to be an excellent CCW if I want and is small enough to make an excellent Comp. gun also......
Id love the Comp trigger group if it was a Comp only gun.......
BTW...youre as spoiled as me...
shoot well
tomkatz
Member
For a carry gun I can highly recommend PCRCCW's methods, over at czforum he advised me and my 75b and pcr are both working great now. .....tom
.....tomPCRCCW
Member
Tom,
Youre too kind...thanks for the good words.
Shoot well
Youre too kind...thanks for the good words.
Shoot well
I happen to have two that I don't need..one 14lb and one 16lb. The reason for this is because my CZ75 kept failing to eject properly with the factory spring, so I decided to change to the recoil spring. That did not work, so I traded the gun for a 92Brig. I only ran about 20 rounds through both and have the original packaging. I really wished that fixed the problem though - other than the FTE, I loved it.
If you are interestd, email me at [email protected]
If you are interestd, email me at [email protected]
The factory recomended spring weight fo my CZ-75BD is 14#. I ordered a 14# spring from Wolff. It seems stiffer than the 14# CZ spring.My CZ works perfectly with the new spring. I've heard CZ factory springs are a little on the light side. I shoot mostly WWB. No problems after 1000's of rounds.
I have just installed a 16# Wolff recoild spring in my full size CZ-75B. The spring is bunching up and causing the slide to freeze instead of recoiling. Any suggestiuons on fixing thsi? I'd like to keep the 16#, but will go to 14# if I have to, however, many have had success with the 16# and stronger spring weights.
PCRCCW
Member
Pilot,
Youve got something strange going on. Mind you the Wolff springs appear longer than the OEM springs do..but "take a set" after a couple of rounds through the gun. Youve got something strange going on.
Its possible the Wolff sent the wrong spring.
Its possible the spring youve got is kinked..when you put the barrel in the slide and then the recoil assy...is the guide rod straight? Is it parallel with the barrel upon installation? If these are all ok..you should not have binding.
If its not straight...try turning the recoil guide/spring when installed in the slide until it doesnt fight you....youll know what I mean if you play with it.
The spring may have a "big end" and "small end", typically I dont see this from Wolff..but on occasion. The big end of the spring goes in the slide and the small end goes on the guide rod..it will fight you slightly going on the rod.
It all of these check out and you still have problems...you have a wrong spring or something else fubaring things.......
Let us know...........Shoot well.
Youve got something strange going on. Mind you the Wolff springs appear longer than the OEM springs do..but "take a set" after a couple of rounds through the gun. Youve got something strange going on.
Its possible the Wolff sent the wrong spring.
Its possible the spring youve got is kinked..when you put the barrel in the slide and then the recoil assy...is the guide rod straight? Is it parallel with the barrel upon installation? If these are all ok..you should not have binding.
If its not straight...try turning the recoil guide/spring when installed in the slide until it doesnt fight you....youll know what I mean if you play with it.
The spring may have a "big end" and "small end", typically I dont see this from Wolff..but on occasion. The big end of the spring goes in the slide and the small end goes on the guide rod..it will fight you slightly going on the rod.
It all of these check out and you still have problems...you have a wrong spring or something else fubaring things.......
Let us know...........Shoot well.
PCRCCW wrote,
"Its possible the spring youve got is kinked..when you put the barrel in the slide and then the recoil assy...is the guide rod straight? Is it parallel with the barrel upon installation? If these are all ok..you should not have binding."
Thanks for the help PCRCCW. The spring is actually trying to come out of the slide forcing itself either upward or downward. It is longer than the factory spring which is normal, but it really wants to flex out. THe spring seems to have the same size opening on each end. Maybe my guide rod is too short, (its plastic and 1 3/4 inch in length)??? My 75B is a 1996 Turk overun and has been flawless with the factory spring. Or maybe Wolff did send the wrong spring?
"Its possible the spring youve got is kinked..when you put the barrel in the slide and then the recoil assy...is the guide rod straight? Is it parallel with the barrel upon installation? If these are all ok..you should not have binding."
Thanks for the help PCRCCW. The spring is actually trying to come out of the slide forcing itself either upward or downward. It is longer than the factory spring which is normal, but it really wants to flex out. THe spring seems to have the same size opening on each end. Maybe my guide rod is too short, (its plastic and 1 3/4 inch in length)??? My 75B is a 1996 Turk overun and has been flawless with the factory spring. Or maybe Wolff did send the wrong spring?
PCRCCW
Member
Wow...ok now were getting somewhere. The plastic guide rod is not weak by any means..but may not like the wolff spring.
My guess is its kinking. Install it in the slide and twist the guide rod/spring until it doesnt want to fight its way out"....from there..rack your slide to get it to set in that location.
If that doesnt help...Id keep the spring and order the steel guide rod, short OEM 75B, from CZUSA and youll be set.
Shoot well.................
My guess is its kinking. Install it in the slide and twist the guide rod/spring until it doesnt want to fight its way out"....from there..rack your slide to get it to set in that location.
If that doesnt help...Id keep the spring and order the steel guide rod, short OEM 75B, from CZUSA and youll be set.
Shoot well.................
PCRCCW wrote:
"My guess is its kinking. Install it in the slide and twist the guide rod/spring until it doesnt want to fight its way out"....from there..rack your slide to get it to set in that location."
It is kinking and no matter how much I twist the spring/guide rod assembly, it still wants to fight its way down towards the bottom of the frame or upwards into the barrel. I will order the steel guiderod from CZUSA as you suggest. Thanks!
"My guess is its kinking. Install it in the slide and twist the guide rod/spring until it doesnt want to fight its way out"....from there..rack your slide to get it to set in that location."
It is kinking and no matter how much I twist the spring/guide rod assembly, it still wants to fight its way down towards the bottom of the frame or upwards into the barrel. I will order the steel guiderod from CZUSA as you suggest. Thanks!
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