Recommendations for a AR?

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slr 15, stag, bushmaster, they will all last a training course and many more.and will serve you for a long time.

training courses can rane in round counts from little to more than youhave ever shot at one time, or maybe even more in one day/one course than most people will ever put through a rifle. there are many companies out there that make an ar that will make it through. the best thing to remember is to keep it wet, with the proper lube, ie gun butter, high temp lithium bearing grease. and you will be good to go.
 
I can only mention what I have to use...and they are reliable.My Rock River Entry Tactical and my Colt have been though a lot of use...never a problem.
 
and similar to gunnerpalace, my question regarding vigorous use of Anvil Arms is use far beyond general range plinking. Rapid fire, 1000 rounds over a weekend, etc. Not just sitting at the range and popping a few rounds off... can Anvil Arms withstand those abuses like the others have shown to?
 
I second what teombe was saying about the magazines and the sling. You can't beat Bravo Company's price on mags. It is something like 10 mags for $110 plus shipping or so. They are the good magazines too. I got a MAMBA sling which works great on my AR. As for optics, I will, more than likely, be getting a Trijicon. They are unrivaled telescopic AR scopes. However, if you go the red dot route, an Eotech or Aimpoint is the way to go.

Remember, if in doubt, stick to the big names. This applies to everything (Rifle, accessories, etc.). They didn't get recognition for producing crap.
 
Gunnerpalace, do you have a link to a site where I can buy the Glock pistol quadrail attachment? Thanks.
 
do you have a link to a site where I can buy the Glock pistol quadrail attachment?
Please keep in mind that you need to register your Glock as a short-barreled rifle ($200 tax stamp) before attaching a stock to it. That includes attaching it to a rifle.
 
I haven't heard anything bad about Anvil Arms. I'd imagine their rifles will be as good as the components they build it from. Since they can do custom work, it'll depend on what you spec out.

And 250 rounds in a day is not much shooting. That's a casual afternoon.
 
Shrub..err Bushmaster sucks, so does DPMS. Stick with LMT, Colt, Noveske, or Stag, and upgrade the parts accordingly.
 
Gunnerplace, please answer my question? I only asked for a link. Whether I can buy it and for what reason is an issue I will have to deal with.
 
Shrub..err Bushmaster sucks, so does DPMS. Stick with LMT, Colt, Noveske, or Stag, and upgrade the parts accordingly.

I beg to differ. The DPMS rifles I own are far from sub par!
 
I have a S&W myself (not one of the Stag built guns...mine left the factory 11-27-07. I bought it 3 weeks later) and it has served me well, its VERY accurate, only choked 1 time on an experimental load of mine...the powder was too fast for the 60 grain bullet I was firing...it was not the guns fault...and my M&P 15 ain't leaving me for ANY other AR.


BUT...The Charles Daly D-M4LE is the best buy...quality parts, mil-spec barrel, well fitted, and priced great for the components used.
 
Anvil Arms

How tested and true are the anvil arms? Can they stand up to vigorous use as the other quality brands can?

CBRGator - I can tell you that my 2 AR's are not safe queens. Have put about 8K through my M4, many different brands, Federal, Remington, PMC and (sorry Jon) loads of Wolf MC. The only FTF I had was a magazine that I had dropped and bent the feed lips on. These are rock solid AR's, as well made as any, and IMO better than most.

AnvilCarbine02.gif
 
For a carbine class, make sure you have plenty of mags. Never been in a class myself but from many a blasting-away experience at the range, the mags cause more problems than anything else, particularly ones with cheap followers. Also get a nice spare bolt carrier group just in case, as that is the second most common part to fail on an AR IIRC.
 
Greetings Guys!

How durable are Anvil Arms guns? Please, come find out for yourself! Standing offer: bring 1,500+ rounds of ammo, I’ll bring some of our demo guns. You pick one or shoot them all. Shoot as fast and hard as you want. See for yourself it they meet your expectations for durability and reliability.

Anybody with any amount of AR experience knows full well that the shorter the barrel the harder it is to make it run reliably. Also, full auto is far harder to make run reliable than semi auto.

A central Florida Sheriff’s department did just that with several of our 11.5” full autos, and some 3 round burst guns, and far more ammo than just 1,500 rounds of ammo. After the demonstration they purchased 2 for long term testing. After months of back to back departmental classes and numerous SWAT call outs they have requested administrative approval to order several more.

Those SWAT guys beat up our guns far harder than your ever likely to and myself and my staff are even harder on them that the SWAT guys were.

What else can I say?

Jon Kruger
President, Anvil Arms LLC
Lakeland, FL.

863-398-4460

Email: [email protected]

www.AnvilArms.com

Lifetime NRA Member

ARFCOM Industry Partner
 
Quote:
do you have a link to a site where I can buy the Glock pistol quadrail attachment?

Site said LEO/Military only, sorry.


Now what about Grinding odd the LEO/Military Only marking on that colt?

The reason those Glock mounts are for LEO/military only is that using them without the proper ATF/NFA registration instantly makes you a Felon. That particular crime is punishable by up to 10 years in the Federal house and a fine of up to $250,000 .. or both. The necessary registration is $200 and will take you a few months.

As for removing the LEO/military marking from your Colt (or any other brand) Those markings no longer have any legal status what ever. If you really want to muck up your gun you can try to remove them. I have seen several attempts by people to remove them, so far not a single one looked even 1/2 way decent. To properly do it you would need to weld over the markings, machine the welds down, and have the receiver completely professionally refinished.

The refinishing could not be anodizing because it would not look right. The different metals you have fused together will not take the anodizing exactly the same and you will have varying colors. You could Teflon coat it and end up with an evenly colored surface. The cost to do all that would likely be over $500.

I have seen numerous attempts to try to fill in the letters with various automotive body fillers and so forth. They all look like the art project of a 5 year old. I did see one that looked like a 10 year old did it. That one almost looked 1/2 way decent, still not good enough to pass as even "good" but it did start to get closer than any other I have seen.

If you were to grind the markings off you would be removing a significant amount of metal from the magazine well. To make it look right you would have to feather it in so that you had a smooth surface. This would require the removal of even more metal. I have had some (very minor) auto body experience and from that I would estimate that your feathering would need to start at the edge of the magwell and gradually get deeper until you have achieved the maximum depth of the roll mark. To do this smoothly and evenly so that it looked factory done would require either a very skilled craftsman or a very experienced milling machine operator. Even then you would end up with a concave surface, not a flat one. Unless of course you just machined the entire side of the magazine well to about ½ of the normal thickness. Not something I would even consider doing.

The markings never bothered me one way or the other. I find them a lot less “Offensive” than any of the results I have seen of trying to remove them.

You know it is really kind of funny, I have guys sending me receives all the time to be laser engraved with those same LEO/Military markings and then we have people all the time wanting to take the factory markings off... Maybe you guys should seek each other out and just trade receivers?


Jon K.
 
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