Redding T-7 Disassemble and clean

[gifbohane]

Has anyone here taken the ram out of the Turret Press to clean the support sleeve?

The ram is binding on the sleeve, so I have to lube it pretty good to make it move up and down smoothly.

I want to remove it to clean it but do not want a major project when putting it back together

 

[CQB45ACP]

I’m sure you’ve seen the couple of YouTube videos on removing the turret.

I’m really looking forward to you doing this because I’ve been reluctant to do it as it seems you have. I love my T-7 and don’t want to screw it up.

So, keep us (me) posted

 

[ParallelCode]

I need to clean my T7. I have never disassembled it previously, only added lube.

 

[Cheesemaker]

I have the Big Boss II - I think we have the same ram. However, I have never needed to do this but am interested.

Maybe a call to Redding is in order. They have always been most helpful when I have called them.

 

[Hoopjj]

I have a Big Boss that i replaced the ram with a Big Boss II ram. Removal was simple and straight forward. No problems at all. Just removed the e-clip on the pin at the bottom of the ram and remove the pin. Ram slid right out

 

[murray brook]

This might be an interesting video for you to watch. They show how to remove the ram at the end, or just about.

Make Your Redding T7 Press Like New - YouTube

 

[AJC1]

I was wondering if anyone has installed a grease Zirk, or if that was a bad idea.

 

[PO2Hammer]

I put toweling on the floor and put heavily oil on my T-7 above and below the base. I use a 3/4” paint brush and slather it up good with 30 weight synthetic while working the ram. I keep going until all the oil coming out is clean.

 

[AJC1]

I put toweling on the floor and put heavily oil on my T-7 above and below the base. I use a 3/4” paint brush and slather it up good with 30 weight synthetic while working the ram. I keep going until all the oil coming out is clean.

If you used Molly grease it would always look black and would just be well lubed....

 

[PO2Hammer]

Never tried moly on anything.
Pennzoil full synthetic. Use it on the Glock too.

 

[AJC1]

Never tried moly on anything.
Pennzoil full synthetic. Use it on the Glock too.

I use a little clp or Mobil one full synthetic ball bearing grease. Low tech as it gets.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I was wondering if anyone has installed a grease Zirk, or if that was a bad idea.

I have a T-7 press and haven't set it up yet, but my newer Hornady Lock n Load press makes a squeak sound when I use it. I've tried several different types of lube and nothing worked.
I think I will be taking the rams out ot the presses and have a friend insert a grease zerk about in the middle of the press where the ram goes up & down.

 

[Blue68f100]

The squeak maybe coming form the linkage not the ram. I use syn gun oil on the rams that do not have zerk fittings. If the Hornady is a AP, you need to lube the ram with the ram up. There is a grease groove in the ram that I clean out every time before I lube. This way I'm distributing fresh clean lube.

If your using a heavy oil it may not penetrate as needed on a tight tolerance. Use a lighter oil will help till it gets loosened up, then you can move to a heavier weight if needed.

 

[Highland Lofts]

The Hornaday press I have that is making the squeaky sound is a single-stage Lock n Load press.
I think I will take the ram out this weekend and do a through job of getting everything thing nice & clean then apply some fresh lube and see what happens.

 

[AJC1]

The Hornaday press I have that is making the squeaky sound is a single-stage Lock n Load press.
I think I will take the ram out this weekend and do a through job of getting everything thing nice & clean then apply some fresh lube and see what happens.

If your depriming that amount of brass I believe your processing, a good cleaning should be a once a week thing.

 

[ballman6711]

On my LnL single stage I put a few drops of light gun oil or synthetic motor oil on the ram occasionally. If the press starts to feel a bit different or seems to have a bit of resistance, I'll pull the ram out, clean the ram and tunnel with a rag, then wipe the ram with a light oil and reassemble. You would be amazed at the amount of crud that gets in there. Also, remove and clean the linkage pins while you're doing it and lightly oil before reassembly. You won't believe the difference in feel.

If I had a T-7 I would do the same thing. I would think that most presses have a simple clip and pin holding the ram to the linkage. A small flat blade screwdriver will pop it off, and a pair of pliers will pop it back on. Be careful removing or installing the clip as they like to go flying. Eye protection is recommended.

chris

 

[Rule3]

There is actually something out there that Does Not have a You Tube Video???

Gads!

 

[WeekendReloader]

I stopped deprimming on my press because of the dirt and grime getting into the ram.
I used some CLP to flush out all the old grease and grit while working the ram. Then used some 3-n-1 30wt oil I had in the shop to lubricate it. I add a few drops every now and then to keep things running smooth.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I quit depriming dirty brass on my presses. I ruined a fairly new Hornady single-stage Lock n Load press depriming dirty range brass. The range brass I sell which is high in volume I sell just wet tumbled unless I get extra for depriming it.
I have an order for 3,200 pieces of brass that the guy wants resized and primed. I wet tumbled it all and will start resizing it probably Friday or Saturday.

 

[ParallelCode]

I quit depriming dirty brass on my presses. I ruined a fairly new Hornady single-stage Lock n Load press depriming dirty range brass. The range brass I sell which is high in volume I sell just wet tumbled unless I get extra for depriming it.
I have an order for 3,200 pieces of brass that the guy wants resized and primed. I wet tumbled it all and will start resizing it probably Friday or Saturday.

I stopped depriming on the T7, switched to a Harvey deprimer, and now I'm moving to the Lee APP.

 

[CQB45ACP]

I just finished disassembling, cleaning, and lubing my T-7 linkage and ram using CLP.

I had never done that before nor would I have done it now except for all the discussion here. I guess I learned something important and it wasn’t even the OP’s topic.

 

[gifbohane]

remove and clean the linkage pins while you're doing it and lightly oil before reassembly. You won't believe the difference in feel.

A small flat blade screwdriver will pop it off, and a pair of pliers will pop it back on. Be careful removing or installing the clip as they like to go flying. Eye protection is recommended.

chris

Redding said "Pull off the e-clip." Any idea on how to remove it without butchering it, which is my MO.

I feel better knowing that some of you have a similar problem.....with solutions.

 

[CQB45ACP]

Redding said "Pull off the e-clip." Any idea on how to remove it without butchering it, which is my MO.

I feel better knowing that some of you have a similar problem.....with solutions.

I used needle nosed pliers to grab it and pull. No butchering this time anyway.

 

[ballman6711]

Redding said "Pull off the e-clip." Any idea on how to remove it without butchering it, which is my MO.

An "E" clip is shaped like the letter E if you look at it the right way. Take a small flat blade screwdriver, NOT a Phillips, and place the tip between the "center" of the E and one edge. Keep the tip at a 90 degree angle to the linkage pin and gently twist the blade towards the center of the "E". The clip will rotate and come right off. It will go flying, so keep your hand in front of it. Again, eye protection is recommended.

I used needle nosed pliers to grab it and pull. No butchering this time anyway.

This will work, but is not as easy and has more risk of damaging the clip.

To reinstall the clip, place it flat on the linkage pin with both ends in the "groove" on the linkage pin. Sounds complicated, but you'll see what I'm saying when you do it. Use needle nose pliers (regular pliers may do in a pinch) to "squeeze" the clip back onto/into the groove. The teeth of the pliers need to be placed at the center of the "E" and directly opposite (slightly over the edge of the linkage pin) which is easier done with needle nose. If your pliers slip, the E-clip may go flying, so be prepared for that. A bunched up rag or towel beside it should catch it if it does. Again, eye protection is recommended. I have reinstalled E-clips with a flat blade screwdriver on occasion, but really recommend against it.

chris

 

[CQB45ACP]

An "E" clip is shaped like the letter E if you look at it the right way. Take a small flat blade screwdriver, NOT a Phillips, and place the tip between the "center" of the E and one edge. Keep the tip at a 90 degree angle to the linkage pin and gently twist the blade towards the center of the "E". The clip will rotate and come right off. It will go flying, so keep your hand in front of it. Again, eye protection is recommended.



This will work, but is not as easy and has more risk of damaging the clip.

To reinstall the clip, place it flat on the linkage pin with both ends in the "groove" on the linkage pin. Sounds complicated, but you'll see what I'm saying when you do it. Use needle nose pliers (regular pliers may do in a pinch) to "squeeze" the clip back onto/into the groove. The teeth of the pliers need to be placed at the center of the "E" and directly opposite (slightly over the edge of the linkage pin) which is easier done with needle nose. If your pliers slip, the E-clip may go flying, so be prepared for that. A bunched up rag or towel beside it should catch it if it does. Again, eye protection is recommended. I have reinstalled E-clips with a flat blade screwdriver on occasion, but really recommend against it.

chris

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