redhawk owners! cylinder latch question?

[jimbombo]

Hello. Like new 4" .44 mag ruger redhawk. When checking timing the gun is just fine. Pulling the hammer slow cylinder locks up before the hammer is all the way back as it should. When the hammer is lowered and the gun is in full lockup everytng is fine as well
However when the hammer is all the way back and you pull the trigger then release trigger to lower the hammer safely the cyclinder latch pops ever so slightly and unseats itself just a little bit. Only reason I would ever see doing this is go from sa fire to lower hammer on live round. Question I have is can someone with a redhawk try yhis to see if it is the trigger and spring setup on the redhawk, or if it is my gun? My gp100 does not do this, however the redhawk has the different spring setup fromm all the other ruger revo's.

Thanks
Jim

 

[BCRider]

It's your gun. I just tried this with my own Redhawk a half dozen times where I "thumb lowered" the hammer from full cock and then tried to push the cylinder in and there was no movement at all. Then I did the same thing another few times where I put a finger on the cylinder release to see if I felt a bit of a kick in the button. Nothing. So it's only your Redhawk I'm afraid.

 

[skidder]

BC is correct. I just tried it with the same results.

 

[jimbombo]

thanks guys!

Did you take your finger off the trigger after the hammer released, then slowly ride the hammer down, that's when I noticed a small twitch in the cylinder latch that wasn't there when I dropped the hammer then released the trigger...?

 

[skidder]

I just tried again with my finger off the trigger and I did feel a slight movement on the cylinder latch (very slight). This did not occur when testing my Security Six and SP101.

 

[jimbombo]

That's what I am talking about! Must be because of the single spring for the hammer and trigger! ?? Thoughts? Mine moves very slightly but I hear a click then another when I move the cylinder again. I am talking very small amt of play and movement, but what happens if you release the trigger lower the hammer and it slips with the cylinder not locked cpmpletely into the cutout??

 

[jimbombo]

Just to be sure we are on same page, I am referring to the cylinder latch, not the crane latch. Cylinder latch locks into the cylinder cutouts. Not meaning to be smart%#!, just on same page. Thx...

 

[Jim K]

FWIW, the cylinder latch is Ruger's name for what other companies call the cylinder stop. I know that gun reasonably well, though I don't have one, and can't think what the problem could be. There would seem to be some interference somewhere, but I can't figure out what would cause that problem.

Jim

 

[skidder]

The movement I felt was on the latch. I'm thinking we are not on the same page.



Here is the cylinder stop

 

[Jim K]

Hi, skidder,

Every gun company has different names for the parts in their guns. What Colt calls the bolt S&W calls the cylinder stop and Ruger calls the cylinder latch. What Ruger calls the crane latch, S&W calls the thumbpiece, and so on to the confusion of gunsmiths and parts companies alike.

But what in heck does the diagram of what looks like an old Webley have to do with a Ruger Redhawk? They are totally different designs.

Incidentally, in that design, the part names are confusing as well. The part called the cylinder lock actually stops the cylinder when it comes into alignment; the part called the cylinder stop keeps the cylinder from turning when the trigger is forward at rest.

Jim

 

[skidder]

Jim it was just a reference to the cylinder stop (what he was calling the latch). That is what I've always called the part that engages the notches in the cylinder.

 

[Jim K]

Well, "always" doesn't really count. Yes, there is ample opportunity for confusion, but a Ruger part is called what Ruger calls it, and jimbombo is using the correct nomenclature.

Jim

 

[jimbombo]

Thanks guys. Can be confusing. But yes I was originally referring to the cylinder stop/cylinder latch(the part that engages the grooves/cutouts on the cylinder)

 

[skidder]

Ok, I see what he's talking about. Thanks for the correction Jim.

 

[BCRider]

I'd have to try mine again since I was thinking it was the crane release button you were talking about.

How are you feeling for the little tick it's making? A light rotational pressure on the cylinder?

 

[jimbombo]

Nope. I am going visual! Hold the revolver in left hand, after safety check, cock hammer, while watching the cylinder latch ,release hammer all the way, then release trigger, nothing should happen! NOW cock hammer, release the trigger like you were safely lowering the hammer on a live round, NOW slowly releale the hammer, you may feel some roughness, and possibly see the cylinder latch twitch ever soo slightly?!

I have a thread open in the ruger forums and asked the same question of iowegan! He responded back in detail and explained that this is not just my revolver, it in his words is not an issue, but is something common with all ruger da/sa revo's. He also went on to state that this should go away after further break in of the revolver! (I will try and cut and paste his reponse)...

On a side note. I traded a single six for a smith model 15, then the 15 and some ammo for this redhawk! I assumed the revolver was fired very little, but now I am wondering if it has any rds through it other than factory??? This was the first trade that I think I actually came out on top! Redhawks are hard to find in Ohio, and the 4" near impossible! I am very happy!

 

[codefour]

On my new Redhawk four inch I had a problem with the latch also. Mine was too tight and it was hard to open the cylinder. Ruger told me this is normal. They advised me to cycle the hammer and trigger 1,000 times and the problem cured itself.

If it is a new revolver, I would work the action a bunch of times. UNLOAD the gun and work the action. It just may cure your problem.

Afterwards, I completely cleaned up the internals and installed Wolfe Spring kit. The Wolfe kit worked wonders on it as well. I little work with an India stone set on he sear and trigger contacts was well worth it as well.