Reducing / Eliminating Cap Jams in Open Top Colt replicas

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drobs

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Seems to be lots folks that don't like open top Colts based on the issue of cap jams and cap sucking. There are methods of reducing and eliminating them.


Method #1 - The Cap Rake / Cap Post:

DIY - requires a center punch, drill press, and a fixture to use on the drill press:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/colt_cap_and_ball.pdf

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Not a Do it yourselfer, I believe 45 Dragoon (Goons Gunworks) will perform that service.

Video of a open top colt with cap post in action


Method #2 - the Manhattan Conversion:

http://www.prepperforums.net/forum/...manhattan-conversion-black-powder-colt-s.html

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Discussion on Manhattan revolvers:
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=38252.0

This gunsmith shows a price of $75 to add a Manhattan style ring:
http://www.longhunt.com/web/index.p...ck-Powder-Shooting-Custom-Percussion-Revolver
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Method #3 Re-profiling the hammer face and adding slix shot or treso nipples:

Personally I'm not a fan, I like being able to load 6 and carry with the hammer loaded on a safety pin. Though usually I'll load 5 and lower the hammer on an empty chamber.

Method #4 Cap Keepers:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5935286
http://1858remington.com/discuss/index.php?topic=5152.0

Method #5 Shake, rattle and roll.
I really haven't experience horrible cap jams with my Pietta Colts. Simply rotating the gun to the right to shake out any cap fragments after firing usually works for me.

Lastly I enjoy shooting C&B revolvers. However, for serious defensive - the gun must fire no matter what situation, I'll take a modern cartridge loading firearm.
 
Goons cap post is part of an overall service that address several issues with the Colts. I suspect he would do any of the tasks individually if requested. I speak with experience, his work is first rate.
 
Crawdad1: One 1860 is a Uberti with the fully fluted cylinder, Goonierized, and the other is a $99 Pietta that has been around so long its beginning to look, well, looked used. Surprisingly its as accurate as any I have.
So, as there is a Mason Conversion on the list also, I'll go with that.:)
Sorry for the off post chatter.
 
By having a hammer to nipple clearance of .005" and no sharp edges on the hammer face I have reduced open-top cap jams to near zero. Carefully file the hammer face until the correct clearance is obtained. Then file away all the sharp edges on the hammer face. This repair can be done with the revolver completely assembled. Protect the frame with tape to prevent any scratches from the file.
 
Thank You Gentlemen, she's a good repro, surprisingly good. I did the Mile route with the JB Weld solid facing the hammer but it has to be reapplied ever so often. I agree wholeheartedly with Blackpowdershooter44, jgh4445, Whughett among others, the 'Goon' permanently solves the problem. :)
 
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Loaded with these. It fires just fine. :)
I have 2 of those and am keeping an eye out for a 3rd.

Have a R&D for my 1860 Pietta:
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And a Kirst for my 1858 Pietta:
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I'd like to add a loading gate Kirst to my other Pietta 1860 - but am still enjoying it as a C&B gun. Sounds like a good reason to buy another gun?
 
My first go around with C&B pistols was about 30 years ago with Colt type reproductions. No Cowboy Action at the time so I wasn't shooting very quickly, but I don't recall the number of cap sucking/jams that I seem to experience today with the same type guns. All my current ones have aftermarket nipples and the usual attention to cleaning up the hammer face. I'm starting to lay some of the blame on the caps, which appear hotter(Remingtons for sure) and maybe of thinner construction. This almost assures the caps will be blown off the cones upon firing. I would prefer to pick the fired caps off the cones, as I recall having to do, instead of occasionally out of the now jammed action. No complaining here, as I'm having a blast shooting these gun in their original percussion form or with conversion cylinders. Amazing versatility and fun!
 
Hey guys!!! Thanks so much for all the kind words!! I'm doing several pairs of competition guns and haven't noticed this thread over the last couple of days.

The best way to reach me is an email through my website.
Thanks so much!

Mike
 
I bought two small tension pins or rather say roll pins at the hardware store today so I was gonna try one as a cap post with the split facing the hammer! what ya'll think??
 
I was thinkin on using some threadlocker on the tension pin or rather say put some in the hole and drive that pin in and let sit for a day or so!
 
I "borrowed" this picture of a nice post installation, note you can't have any part sticking through the recoil shield.View attachment 230937

That almost looks like a cut down AR15 front sight. Midland Man had me thinking about what hardware store solution could be used for a post. A front sight pin that is threaded might work well.

Edited to add, I plan to try my hand at a cap post when I get home. I have brasser 1851/44 that should be a good one to experiment on without too many tears if I totally screw it up...
 
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