BTW, many finishes will spontaneously combust when rags soaked in finish are left on a workbench. Be sure to hang any towels or rags outside until they're dry. Danish tung oil mixes are especially prone to spontaneous combustion and the cause of house fires.
Thanks for mentioning that!
Yes, NEVER leave rags that have been used to apply ANY TYPE of finish heaped up in a bunch. As the finish polymerizes heat is generated. Yes, the rags can spontaneously ignite. Always soak rags used to apply any finish in water. Rinse them out well, and allow them to dry outdoors away from any combustible materials. Once dry, throw the rags away and use fresh rags for the next project. When I am cleaning a gun with solvent I often use red mechanic's rags. I soak them in water, thoroughly rinse them out, and hang them to dry on a portable indoor drying rack. When dry I fold them for their next use. Rags used to apply finish may be stiff when they dry out and useless for another application. Soak them, rinse them, allow them to dry outside, then discard them in a trash barrel outside and away from the house.
There are basically two types of wood finishes. Varnishes and lacquers form a skin on top of the wood. Oil finishes soak into the wood. Both of these finishes polymerize (a chemical reaction in which two or more molecules combine to form larger molecules that contain repeating structural units) as they cure. Varnishes and lacquers are difficult to repair if damaged. If a spot is worn or cut through, freshly applied finish may have trouble bonding to the old finish. Plus, as the old finish aged, the repair will stand out like a sore thumb. Oil finishes are not problem to apply fresh finish to. The new oil bonds to the old oil without any problem. That is the main reason I liked to use oil finishes on Cherry and Walnut. With Oak I usually sprayed on a lacquer finish. When I had my shop I had a spray booth and I used oil based lacquer. After I closed my shop and was working in my basement I used brush on, water based polyurethanes.
Yes, oil finishes tend to dry out. Here is a cherry end table I built many, many years ago. I usually finished Cherry and Walnut pieces with Watco Danish Oil. Upstairs is a cherry table I built many years ago, but I do not have a photo of it. Anyway, yes, oil finishes like this do need to be replenished to keep them looking their best. I used to apply a fresh finish every year or so to keep the finish looking good. I stopped bothering years ago and allowed the finishes to dry out naturally. It is not a problem, water still beads up on the surface.
I have several antique lever rifles, the following two photos are of the wood on an original Winchester Model 1873 that left the factory in 1887. George Madis, in
The Winchester Handbook, says "Winchester's oiled finish was standard for all guns; varnished finishes were extra". He is referring to the 1873 model here, I have not gone through what the finishes were for later models. No mention of stain, I suspect the finish was applied directly to the raw wood. Don't forget, there was much more top grade American Black Walnut available in those days than there is today, so stain was probably not required for a dark finish on American Black Walnut. The light colored sap wood would be cut away. Today most of the remaining walnut trees get turned into veneer, not solid lumber.
Of course I cannot categorically state that this old rifle has not been refinished at some point, but I like to think the finish is original. Lots of dings and dents from over the years. Close inspection indicates the pores were not filled, they are open. So although I do not have an original Henry rifle, they usually go for at least $30,000 or more, I have handled more than one. My recollection is the finish on those originals pretty much resembled the finish on this Model 1873 that left the factory about 20 years later.
