Reload Rifle rounds on a Progressive?

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Siber

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I was curious if anyone reloads rifle ammo on a progressive press. If so what caliber? I was considering trying to reload .223 on one but didn't want to risk the setup cost if it's not practicle.

Thanks
 
It's really a time saver if you load a lot. BUT, you have that annoying brass prep that breaks the cycle. I use a single stage for sizing, then measure/trim, swage primer pockets, etc etc. Then I set my Dillon up and run them all through it for the priming/charging/seating/crimping. Still a lot faster than single stage all the way. Straight wall pistol rounds are where the progressives really shine.

ETA: 223 and 308 mostly. And you CAN go through the whole progressive process IF you don't check/correct for brass problems, but I can't force myself to do that on bottleneck cartridges.
 
I recently started reloading 300 BLK and 204 Ruger on an RCBS Pro2000. 223 Remington will follow when I need to reload it. I got the Pro2000 for the APS priming system.

I may load 308 Win and 30-06 on the Pro2000 in the future, but have not decided yet. I do have all the pieces/parts to do it though.

I resize all rifle on a single stage press, trim then clean the cases shortly after shooting it. At a later time when I have a good amount of prepped cases, I reload it.

All my hand cartridges are loaded on either a Hornady L-N-L or Dillon SDBs.
 
I reload .30-06 on a progressive, but all the brass prep is done first, including sizing on a single stage.

I use a 550b.

The differences is that I find priming isn't quite as consistent, and the powder measure has some outliers of +/- 0.5 grains, with the majority being between +/- 0.2 grains. Powder is IMR 4895.

This is perfectly fine for my offhand loads and for practice loads. I get 1.25" groups from my match garand with loads off the progressive at 100yds. I'm still doing load workups for longer range, and then I'll test those on the progressive to see if the groups open up enough to matter. I think that anything other than 600yd loads will probably be fine, and if I measured each powder charge by hand, then the progressive would probably be just as good as my single stage.

-J.
 
I use a single stage for sizing, then measure/trim, swage primer pockets, etc etc. Then I set my Dillon up and run them all through it for the priming/charging/seating/crimping.

that's what i do for my bulk .223 plinking loads
 
I run all the rifle I shoot through my 550 except the stuff that I rarely shoot and don't keep a bunch of extra ammo for. Got to do the same prep for rifle brass no matter what you run it through, no reason not to use the 550 once the prep is done
 
I reload .30-06, .308 and .30 Carbine on my 550b. No problems, but then I do all the prep up to and including priming first then grab a handful when I need to.
 
I load .223, .308, and .30-06 progressively; .223 on a Dillon 1050, and the 30 caliber stuff on an RCBS Pro2000. I prep all my brass by running it through a Hornady LnL, set up to size, trim, and neck-expand.
 
I load it all on my LNL. I do use it much like a single stage for rifle calibers though.
 
The only rifle rounds I load on my LnL AP are .308 plinkers where I only need to neck size for 110g plated 30 M1 carbine bullets using 10 grains of pistol powder.

With other rounds since I have to lube, clean lube, check for length, trim, I'd rather batch process them with a single stage press and hand prime. Now I have a bag/bowl full of cases all primed and ready to load. Then all I have to do is drop the powder and seat the bullet on a SS press. No chance for a squib or overcharge, no need for a progressive and no need to change the powder charger from small to large on the AP.
 
With the case prep factored in, I'll just keep loading rifle stuff on my single stage. However, I don't shoot but a few hundred rifle rounds a year. When I finally buy an AR and shoot more, I may change my mind about that.
 
.223, .30 carbine, and .243 on a 550.

Size and deprime on station 1. Trim and deal with primer pockets as necessary off-line. With the .30 and .223 I'll prep several hundred at a time and run the prepped brass through the rest of stations on the press just like I do pistol rounds. With the .243 I use the 550 pretty much like a single stage press.
 
I put high capacity rifle reloading (mostly .223) in the same category as handgun reloading. The biggest concern to me is powder drop. Generally you don't get powder drops as precise on a progressive. Deviations in powder drop for plinking or short range (<75 yards), won't matter much. But precision shooting over 100 yards will be effected by deviations of over .5 grain of powder. All of this assumes proper case prep in all aspects of case prep prior to loading.
 
My LNL with my Redding BR-30 dropping automatically will do well under a .5 Gr spread with a variety of non ball rifle powders. I never did anything but drop charges with it is my bench gun (2015, H-322, N-133), just like everyone else, and it would shoot bug holes at 200 yards. Long range for a rifle is well over 200 yards IMHO.

This 300 yard target was shot with rounds loaded on my LNL automatically dropping powder. The error is all me. Mirage was bad enough I could not see the impacts, I just had to read it and shoot, hoping the grouping was where I wanted it. Close, close. :)
 

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My LNL with my Redding BR-30 dropping automatically will do well under a .5 Gr spread with a variety of non ball rifle powders.
That's great Walkalong. How frequently do you weigh your loads? What is the highest spread you generally see with stick powder? I've not tried the Redding BR-30. I've tried several Lees. Most of the drops are within .2 gr. But 1 or 2 out of 10 is .5 or more off. That can really screw up a group. I don't want to spend a lot of $ on a progressive powder drop; and I don't want to spend a lot trying different progressive drops. At $180.00 on Midway, the BR-30 is a little pricey; but it did get rave reviews. I might have to put it on my wish list. One limitation that I didn't like is that it has a 50 grain limit that leaves my .284, .300 win mag and .338 out. I also didn't see anything about adapters for installation on progressive presses.
 
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When testing how it threw a powder, I would just throw charge after charge weighing all of them. After awhile it gives you an idea what highs and lows it will throw. Obviously the smaller kernel stick powders are the way to go. It struggles to do it with IMR 4895, but will do it with RL-15. I am one of the guys who think volume is as important as weight at close range (300 and in, give or take) anyway. There is no doubt in my mind that the occasional high or low drop (slightly over the .5 spread) will go right in the group at 100 to 200 yards. So many other things make such a great deal more difference in where the bullet lands that I never worry about it. I never weighed a charge of N-133, although they were hand dropped with the BR-30 with great care to do it exactly the same each time, practiced by doing it at home and weighing charges.

The BR-30 was much cheaper when I bought mine. I just looked at the Harrells page and dang, they are way up as well.

The BR-30 was designed to throw the average weight charges Benchresters were throwing, and it does that very well. I have to use my LNL measure to charge .458 Win Mag cases.
 
I load 223 on my Hornady LNL, however the case prep is a problem. I prep all the cases beforehand in a separate operation. There are videos out there of people using a Dillon RT1200 automatic case trimmer to do case prep on the LNL or other progressives.
 
.223 and 30.06 on a 550b. All the prep is done on a rock chucker. I trim the length every time... Part of being a machinist and liking consistency I guess.
My "plinking" rounds at 100 yards today. Xtreme bullets 55grain FMJ on top of some Varget.
185C5FD5-9147-4A02-A85D-96C401488561_zps5wrdw9p1.jpg
 
I load my 223 on the Hornady LNL. I run the brass thru once with just the full length sizer die. Once all sized I take the brass to my lyman trimmer with a power drill attached and my RCBS trim mate set up with flash hole deburrer, inside chamfer, outside deburrer, rcbs military crimp remover and primer pocket cleaner, and neck brush. It has 5 rotating stations. I can fully prep and load 100rds with military crimps in about 1h 40min. with the hornady seater die and powder drop the oal and powder weight are dead on once set correctly. I spot check every so often and its always 2.250oal and 24.2g of h335.
 
My LNL with my Redding BR-30 dropping automatically will do well under a .5 Gr spread with a variety of non ball rifle powders. I never did anything but drop charges with it is my bench gun (2015, H-322, N-133), just like everyone else, and it would shoot bug holes at 200 yards. Long range for a rifle is well over 200 yards IMHO.

This 300 yard target was shot with rounds loaded on my LNL automatically dropping powder. The error is all me. Mirage was bad enough I could not see the impacts, I just had to read it and shoot, hoping the grouping was where I wanted it. Close, close. :)
Perty good shootin there Walkalong. Especially for a.......nutin!:)
 
I started Loading with a Lee pro 1000 and .223...
Started with all Dies used.. but more like a turret than Progressive
Then started doing all my de-prime and size on a separate turret.. load up the Case feeder and bust out 50brass in about 5min
Next Change was Primers... .223 are a pain anyway ya look at em... some seat easy, some Hard... so I tried a Hand Primer and it works GREAT... now i prime while watching TV... very fast also..
So now, with the Powder and Bullet Die's in, I load up the Case feeder with primed Brass and can load 50rds in about 10min.. works SLICK for sure

An with my WFT and a few Drill Case Trim and Chamfer is fast as well

Cant imagine doing MY .223 on a Single Stage Press... i shoot at least 100 a week......and would just take too long to load them...
 
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